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This video should help answer all the: Why is the - Bar so long? Saw so ported? Thang so spikeys? Full wrap so a thang? Stumps so high? Cuts so Humbolt?

Virtually all electronic devices from power tools to laptops to Nissan LEAFs to scooters to E-Cigs to Chainsaws use one battery. The ubiquitous 18650 lithium cell. A 3.7 volt battery. They simply use them in different types of configurations.

As piston said, it's unlikely. There's very little room on the chassis. I forgot to add, the bar nuts are also smaller. 10mm? 11mm? In other words, if ya lose the spanner for the 361, the 13mm one off your Husqvarna isn't gonna work. It made very little sense for Echo to do such a thing. Especially since everything else on up is 13mm on Echo. Just..why?

This is one of the problems of running your mouth on line - folks will think you actually know what you're talking about I haven't handled a 362, but I am sure they are nearly the same as a 361. Or, at the very least, only one spot different? They have the same power and weight ratings, tho. Here are ECHO's product guides between the two https://cms-yamab.sdch.develondigital.com/uploads/product/catalogue/5cb93a67c10f90379108ff51/YNPN-18-0604E_CS-362WES_EU_ST2.pdf http://www.countax.biz/imagestore/marketing_bulletins/20151110_ECH_MarketingBulletin_CS-361WES.pdf

I wouldn't say that. Both hold up well to pro use. Clamshell doesn't mean homeowner, it means clamshell. Most McCullochs were clam shell designs. My 7-10 was a clamshell as was my 800: As was my Echo 330EVL:

The 390 is basically a small 501sx chassis. It is a standard magnesium case. The 361 is a clam shell design - mostly due to size constraints. The 361 design is easier and cheaper to make, but it does have more plastic on it. But what some folks seem to overlook is plastics can take impact rather well vs magnesium if it's designed to do so(like the helmets we wear). The 390 is maybe more robust. I dunno, neither saw has had chassis issues yet, so can't really say. It's all about what you want. Nothing has broke on either saw. I almost prefer the 390 because the fluid caps are standard sized. The ones on the 361 are a bit small for my tastes. Having said it, I think the 361 is quite a bit lighter than the 390, maybe by nearly 2 lbs. The 361 revs more readily, but the 390 pulls stronger by quite a bit. I suspect Echo really advances the timing on that 390 a fair bit with it's CDi ignition. The 390 also is a sexy bitch. So there's that

Thanks for the reply. They are still going strong. Not sure I mentioned it earlier, but they live on two large estates that are basically big farms that also have forestries and legacy trees. The 361 stays on the estate I work, and the estate owner is rather enamoured with it and treats it relatively well. It is used very often, in terrible conditions. Never skipped a beat. It's on it's third bar. It was dropped in to the River Suir last winter. Completely submerged, but fortunately not running. I wasn't there, but they showed me photos. They just removed the plug and let it sit by the fire for a few days, occasionally turning it over, and it went back to work later that week! I wanted to tear it down when I showed up, but they had some trees down and couldn't wait. So one day they just told me 'Hey, it's working again'. The 390 is on a friends farm. He is not a professional, just the owner. And he abuses the hell out of the thing. I work between WIcklow and Waterford. Mainly go to Waterford during the late spring and summer and stay up here in WIcklow most the rest of the year. Every summer he hands me that 390 looking like a tractor made love to it, asking for a tune up. I have to spend about an hour sprucing it up. But she just works. She's also on her third bar. I run them both a little rich as I often see they do not clean the air filters regularly. Or sharpen the chain regularly. Or clean them of anything regularly.... @Stere - these little Echo's are rubber AV. Vibration isn't bad.

So here's my claim to fame - they filmed a couple of EP's of Vikings in my local woods in Powerscourt, Enniskerry, Ireland: In the show, Vikings, Season 6 EP18(and some of ep 19), they film these areas: ^ The rather unique looking Douglas Fir on the right appears in the clip at :45 from the opposite angle. This is the steps shown from the opposite side they filmed from at the start of the clip: Trees in the clip: And it FINALLY explains why this boat was in a river that really couldn't be navigated for all the stones and rocks in it(also explains all the burned floor where the fires were): Happy new years!

I dunno, I wouldn't think my productivity would increase by adding in a teenager in to the mix I had to look after. My take is run a 28 if it's stock, 32 if it's ported. I assume it's mainly for stumping and large cross cuts, so dunno if a 500i will oil a 36inch bar well enough there. Good luck. I am not fond of using a saw with anything more than a 32inch light bar on it, tho. I'm an American who used to live in the Pacific Northwest - mostly Oregon and Washington state. I've worked in logging there and forestry, and was the forester on a ranch in Oregon. I have also worked in the UK and am the forester on a large estate in Waterford, Ireland. I mostly keep a low profile here, and I understand it's a good time making fun of the yanks and painting them with one big brush, but when it comes to logging and forestry, the US doesn't mess about. In the fast growing wood in the PNW, you can run longer bars, even in the maple there. It's not just that, but many local saw shops carry skip chain to help facilitate longer bars for better reach and to more easily cut the bigger trees that are there. My local shop in Oregon only carried 3/8 skip chain and nothing else. Unless you asked for different, you also got square chisel chain. 28inch bars are the norm there on 70cc saws. Some folks have a spare 20inch for firewood. If they are professionals, they would rarely have a stock saw. Most are modified, some quite a lot. By law in Canada(and it also defaults to saws for sale in logging in the States), all large saws used for logging or forestry must have large bucking spikes and full wrap handles. Thus, it is actually hard to find a 70cc+ saw without a full wrap and big spikes in the region. One of the timber cruisers I worked with in Washington always had a ported 372XP with a 32 bar in his truck left over from his logging days. It made short work of the typical wood that would fall across our trails or roads. One of which was a 5 foot wide Douglas Fir after a storm. My logging saw, a ported 385xp with an Oregon light weight 32 inch bar and relatively rare full comp square chain(I paid $250 used for this saw and ported and rebuilt it for work): Some of our lengths weren't right, so I had to follow one of our trucks to the mill one day... On the ranch in Oregon, my firewood could be this: (That's a 24 inch bar on an MS361 with skip square chain) Or this, depending on the day: View from that ranch on a good day: If you go to the coast, it looks more like this: The jeep I used(for work and sleep) when up in the logging roads - 1980 Ford F150 Bronco, 5.8litre V8, dual locking diffs, 32inch tires, and 8mpg average.

You can buck a tree from one side wider than the bar if you sling the saw over it: Bucking is a North American term as Canadians use it as well: That Worksafe BC vid is kind of odd in that it doesn't show the standard bucking cut we're taught until nearly 10:30 ish. The cut I did on the previous video is a version of the one at 13:30. Had the tree had a pinch, I would have dragged the bar tip more and left holding wood to snip like in the vid. But since there wasnt any pinch, and this type of wood doesn't easily split and peel, I just finished the cut straight through. I usually ran an 18 or 20 on my 361's, ported or not.

Here ya go - K095 on a Dolmar 420:

I have a couple of bars in the shed, as well as a 241 and a 420. I'll see if I can hash it out tomorrow. ETA - what you may want to do is check out how much play in the adjuster there is on your K041 mount. If it is a lot of leeway, it's likely the BC2M will fit no problem.

K041 and K095 mounts have been an issue in small saws for some time now. Just do a search for them and you'll notice folks wondering what is going on. It stems from Oregon first releasing the K041 mount for stud oiling saws, then making it available for side oilers, but keeping the same mount name. The odd part is they did this to prevent confusion. I haven't tested many newer K041 mounts, so can't say if they are all side and stud oilers now, but it seems likely. Basically, the K041 mount was meant for saws 40cc and smaller, whereas the K095 mount is meant for all small Husky's including 50cc saws and even some 65cc saws from days of yore(like the small mount 362). The K041 'Pro Am' bar Stere is using has the side oiler inlet. It better have - the 420 he has is a side oiler as evidenced by Andrew's images posted previously here. The main difference in practice between the K041 and the K095 mount is the adjuster hole can be slightly more widely spaced on a K095 mount. For some saws, this can be an issue of it not fitting the adjuster(but it is an easy fix using even just a chain file to widen the adjuster hole). On other saws, the fit is fine. The 420 has a rather thin bar adjuster, which I suspect was their own way of getting around the 41/95 issue, and also saving production costs as it appears to simply be a bent piece of metal vs machined. Some SugiHara bars actually have wider spacing in their adjusters in their BC and BL mounts to make them more of a universal fit between K041 and K095 saws. Remember, the BC and BL series are not SugiHara's exact copy of 95 or 41 mounts, it is their own unique system meant to work well on multiple saws. Here's an example of Sugi hedging their bets with wider adjuster spacing. Note the adjuster holes are oval and not round. The reason you do not see this in every bar is it costs more to make oval holes than simple punching a round one, or requires plasma or hydro cutting fixtures. Pictured below is a BC2M-0N35-A, as I unfortunately do not have one of a 37(37cm vs 35cm there - the OH designation on Stere's example is for the 'quick cut'/narrow kerf chain): If you are willing to make some 'adjustments' yourself, most side oiling small mount bars can be made to fit most other mounts:

You think states have decided to go electric because it will pollute more? This is your position? Finding an engineer or scientist to agree will be difficult. The future is coming, ready or not.

Let's try to be a bit reasonable here, folks. You are not going to equal either the efficiency(cost per kWh) or the carbon output per kWh of ANY power plant with a combustion engine, let alone a small two stroke engine, regardless of what that power plant uses to make the power. You just aren't. All you have to do is look at the figures of c02/kWh and £/kWh anywhere on the web to figure that out. Yes, batteries will produce some chemical waste. But so does spilling c02 into the air and petroleum products in to the environment at every stage of petrol harvesting there is. And right now we really aren't exactly sure what to do with battery waste since lithium recycling isn't state mandated to be terrifically efficient. This will come. But what batteries do is keep c02 out of the air far better than petroleum(as well as a great many other contaminants). And we simply can not keep pouring c02 and other junk in to the atmosphere indefinitely. It has to stop sometime - that's the main point of making everything electric that we can. The earth is 40,000km around. It's highest peaks are ~9km. If you go halfway up those mountains, you will need extra oxygen to help you breath, assuming you haven't frozen to death yet. That is how thin the layer of breathable air and liveable environment is painted on to this planet. When you look up, it seems infinite. It just isn't. It's finite, and it has to be maintained, or we all suffer.

After I finally nailed it on porting the 4300. Figures...

I have an Echo 361 and 2, 390's(well, one's been stolen, but that's another story), all with a lot of miles on them. Never had them tightened so much a quick turn of a spanner or the handle hasn't got them opened easily, and they usually undo by hand. The o-rings on the Echo's are quite thick and do not need to be tightened down much at all. Just snug them by hand.

The Proto valve is in the neck, just out of view. The Mercury's is the valve itself. Like a presto bicycle valve, you simply press it and it discharges. It will always test higher than a hosed tester. I like it because it goes to nearly max within 3 pulls, and the first pull forecasts how the saw will do as it will go to nearly 1/3 what the max will read. I rarely have to pull the Proto over more than 6 or 7 times to reach max compression. In any case, as Spud will attest, most experienced techs can tell a chainsaw's compression simply by turning the engine over, guessed within 10psi. But sometimes ya want proof - like this test here after I ported that 2165, removing the gasket - proof it made a good difference from it's previous rating of 175psi up above:

These are both on the same Jonsered 2165: Proto: Mercury Marine(tm): TThe Proto is a quality tester, but it is at the end of about a foot of tubing. Because the Mercury tester is so short, it won't fit on many saws without completely removing their covers.

If you feel like cuttin' holes in people's doors all day long with that 266, I'd reckon a 13 inch bar would do just fine.

It's very easy. You just put this in the browsers... Chainsawbars selector for chainsaw guide bars, chains and sprockets WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK Using our unique Chainsawbars Selector, select your chainsaw make, model and bar... And then you select Husqvarna Then 266 And then you select your bar choice. Loads of options for 16 and 18 inch Don't forget chains! Simples.

The problem with chain grinding wheels is - the better they are, the faster the chain tends to get used. So on some more affordable systems where the owner may have less experience, this might help prevent them from disappearing the chain, and it keeps the system affordable. Amber Boron Nitride(there are many types, really) : Boron nitride - Wikipedia EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG

Here's how they do stock. Looks like it's in American Ash here, VS the seasoned oak in my vid: https://youtu.be/8Kd2KH8kFAQ?t=49

Better view of the eyebrow port: And if yer gonna feed it, ya got to let it auspoof as well:

Yup, that one I did for Andrew AKA Shavey: Here he is with it: Here's a photo from me testing the flow on a spare cylinder before committing on modifying the transfer on a new one because it's a bit 'invasive' on an open port to eyebrow it: It works much better than stock.