difflock
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Everything posted by difflock
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Craig, Link please? I will however cost the 3 ph connection, if only to "add value" to our property for future generations ( mind, a trifle wistfully at the moment)
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I would be looking at a 4-6 cyl diesel 3PH generating set. BUT, harvesting the otherwise wasted heat. Not a poxy wee off-the-shelf mains gas fuelled pipsqueak/lifestyle CHP set. The bonus for me would be the 3ph electric. My 3Ph electric usuage would be so intermittent/some days only /some daylight hours only, that if needs be I could either use the 3 PH to drive the GSHP or satisfy my demands with the GSHP switched off.
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NFD!! Land Rover!! Hawk an Spit, an wash yer mouth oot with soap "G" Wagen man that I am. Actually going to speak to a guy the brother is friendly with, who installed his own GSHP in a new build, some years ago. Ps CHP+GSHP=ideal, using the power to drive the GSHP, and the high temp exhaust and cooling water from the engine for domestic hot water. I feel a Heath Robinson solution coming on. Then I could also have 3 PH to drive a bandsaw mill etcetc
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New Forest DEAN, As a grumpy cynical 54 year old failed Civil Engineer who plumbed the house complete with the then absolute novelty of underfloor heating, and bunged in a bit of extra insulation and thermal Mass. (but wish i had installed more, wider cavities etc etc.) Despite being told (at the time) i was an eejit, cos sure heating oil is dirt cheap (and it was in 1995/1996) I will be well "on guard" I also "know" how much energy it actually takes to heat our dwelling, rather than theory figs. Plus only need "background" heat, the Morso taking care of our "spot" heat needs in the living room (& we generally have to leave the door open to the rather large Hall, stairs and landing space) The living room heating design being rather ;belt, braces + galluses. i.e Full underfloor, 3 large double rads, plus the Morso. The kitchen only got a big double rad, plus full underfloor + the cooker i suppose.
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Bingo Ollywood, that gshp heat during absences is a factor as well. Though simple enough (in our case) to leave the oil boiler running on the time clock driving the underfloor.
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I thought you were attempting a statue of yourself? Or the anchient Egyptian "dog-god", with undertones of Easter Island It is quite good really. The essentials are there and correct. Could I say it looks "right" even if still unfinished. cheers marcus
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Sorry folks I omitted the very pertinent "optional" extra dusting and cleaning. With 5 dogs with the full run of the downstairs, incl our bed. very very optional. PS A lovely woman at work looked quite preturbed when I explained my gross disappointment with our brand new built in Smart/Beam vaccum system. As in I still had to go round with a suction brush and hose. But no worries as I had simply binned the Vaccum, merely open the front door fully to the South, the back door fully to the North, and by propping the 2 intermediate doors open. The "fluff bunnies" generally found their own way our. I was not entirely joking. cheers m
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So owt under 59 minutes is ok:001_smile: oh! Did I mention I were well feart of heights:blushing: Nah I'll just pay my way in
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But even that is only part of the cost equation. The greater installation costs for any wood burner compared to a balanced flue gas installation. Plus the hassle and space required for storage and the daily embuggerance of carting wood in to be burned. Never mind the extra dusting and cleaning
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How fast does one be required to Pole Climb..............................to qualify for free entry. Ah kin start practising. A lot! Oh PS What tonnage is the safety rope certified for?
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I have, since this morning, made enquiries about a Ground Source heat pump installation under the RHI scheme. This despite already being accepted for the RHI/biomass boiler. But being unsure if i wish to continue to be a slave to a boiler, hence my continued reluctance to committ. With the underfloor/GSHP providing background heat and the Morso providing "spot" heat. Keeping the economic oil fired boiler for domestic hot water and backup. Then flog me sticks for cash. m
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yep yep yep wot ^ e said
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splitting hardwood into billets; what tonnage splitter?
difflock replied to riverdog's topic in Firewood forum
15-18 tonne POWERED by a tractor PTO hydraulic pump. unless a newer tractor with high flow hydraulics (and at low engine rpm's) Then use tractor hydraulics. but a PTO pump version will run at tickover revs on the 1000 shaft setting. Even on an older tractor without the better hydraulics. -
I have maintained, since we started heating the whole house with a gasifying logwood boiler. That it would be cheaper to sell the sticks for cash to pay for the heating oil. This is subjective, the only "fact" I possess is that we used to heat the house with one full fill of oil in the year. For the sake of round figs say 2500 litres worth. Plus of course the Morso kicking out 5kw for 12/15 hrs per day (say) I am burning a substantial amount of wood with all the attendent daily hassle to compensate for not burning oil. Preversely, since we got underfloor, I should probably install a ground source heat pump, (under our RHI scheme) and since we are in peat, this would be ideal ground conditions for GSHP too. then sell the logs for cash. But still run the Morso of course. It is indeed a funny old world.
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splitting hardwood into billets; what tonnage splitter?
difflock replied to riverdog's topic in Firewood forum
15-18 tonne/PTO pump driven -
So thats a diesel Kubota engine driving a hydraulic pump to drive a hydraulic motor to drive a PTO stub, which in turn drives a hydraulic pump, to pressure the ram. A kinda "round the houses" way of achieving the goal. The oil will likely get all confuzzled. ie instead of Engine drives pump drives splitter ram
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Well, exactly!
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Thanks, Woodworks, that better expresses what I was getting at. m
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"Benign Neglect" is the absolute best managment for nature. i.e. leave it the F*** alone. Nature will then sort itself out, according to the site and climate/weather conditions prevailing.
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It's that man again (btw, thats Tony Hancock to younguns) Yes, I hired a Thor petrol engined road towable 13t capacity machine for a number of seasons. Totally frustrating, deadly slow on the return and had to stand holding both levers to keep it returning. The splitter head also kept falling off as it continually sheared the securing roll pin. The shaft could have been shimmed to prevent this defect. This was why I bought the PTO powered Krpan. IT is very very good, at least for my needs. very well painted too after a few seasons, no blemishs showing. The only wee oversight design flaw I might pick up on is the inadequate location of the grease nipples for the slideing splitting head. ps Hired THOR WAS probably/almost certainly not a "Magic", as it would have been a basic low rent model for the hire market. marcus
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Except surely the sheep shite has the same fertilizing effect. As leaving cut grass. It was my understanding that to sustain a hay meadow, the fertility had to be suppressed by removing each years growth after seeding. Like in saving hay neatly does, by shaking out the ripe and dry flower seeds, then removing the bulk of the nitrogen containing grasses. Otherwise the grass specis will dominate at the expense of the wild flowers
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V.W. Crafter CR 3.5 Tdi van with SLD dog boxes tow bar extra seats etc Registration Number: GC89AB, Date in Service: 2007, Mileage From: 67000 mls. £6k ish Guess where advertisied:lol:
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yes, btw., those tines look right and tight and straight, at a glance leastwise. PS JimE but flail mowers being heavier in construction, need to be in closer:001_tt2:
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Hawk and spit The clue lies in the name "G" Wagens come with triple diffs as standard, well the 460/461's did. "G" Wagens also keep the oil in and the water out. ho ho
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Could they not graze it down with a few sheep over the winter, and make hay next year? Since there is no such thing as a free lunch, flail mowers also absorb much more horsepower mulching the grass, as opposed to merely cutting it. It will be "murder" hard work raking wet grass. Consider an old fashioned buckrake to "rake" and lift, perhaps keeping the mower a fraction higher to leave a stubble to keep the cut grass up a bit. If correctly set up on the top link it should be possible to get the buckrake tines to "float" without digging in, but still getting all the grass.
