difflock

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkXjAvxK-lQ]2007 Gremo 1050H Timber Harvester For Auction - YouTube[/ame] ?

A 9" clay lined vermiculate insulated 2 storey flue. Since 1996 we have run the Morso 6 months of the year. First 7 or 8 years 24/7 on Birch, heavy lump in last thing, and spin the knobs shut. rekindle from the embers in the morning. Occassional controlled chimney burn. Latter years running on Conifer, no point in even attempting to "overnight" but still burning daylight hours for 6 months of the year. No chimney fires of any sort. And/but Chimney never been cleaned in its 17 year life and still pulls like a train. marcus

Why are you adamant about the flat belt drive? I was not aware of any minimum length, except that a modicum of length, allowed for some reasonable pully misalignment. Which will be an issue with a short flat belt, I can only presume, if the misalignment is sufficient to overcome the crowning forces. Surely direct PTO shaft drive to a rigid mounted lay shaft with multiple "V" belt drive to the saw arbour shaft is best. Use short "V" belts. The alignment should be correct too? marcus

A good diggerman and mark 1 eyeball, plus a little uncommon sense. Plus as mentioned if it is wet enough to need draining/ditching and done in the wetter months, should be self explanatory. Assuming you have a higher end and a lower end. Simply strike one grade right through, end to end. Dead flat is OK for an open watercourse, cos it will simply silt up and find its own fall. The biggest "enemy" I have found down through the years is diggermen who "waste" fall needlessly. Quite frustrating. Plus the silt is good habitat for overwintering frogs. I generally get sheaughs in the Moss dug well overdeep, and let them sort the fall out themselves. Plus it means they should be good for 10 years. I actually enjoy "draining" very satisfying. Field drains should be 4 or 5 feet deep, sheaughs 6 foot easily. Those 4 or 5 foot deep drains dug with a spade 50 to 80 plus year ago in stiff stony red clay. Uncovered in cross-section on the family lands 30 or 40 year ago with one of the first tracked diggers an Atlas 1303 was it. And still running. Any modern tractor will destroy 2 foot deep drains

Hey, A winch tractor could be needed winch one out. Hold on.........................wait a minute

see NUFFIELD 4/65 Winch Tractor Tractors in Shaftsbury | Farmers Trader

Hmmm, Ah bin looking at racksaws again on ebay. I found a figure somewhere that says about 12,15,000sfpm, which for a 4 foot dia blade approx 12 feet in circ = about 1000-1250rpm So I could drive one direct off the 1000 PTO shaft. Is this about right? 84 (tired)HP permitting? marcus

Doh! I taught dat was a dumb bodge:001_rolleyes: of farmers son cut. So I can actually call mesel an "advanced" sawer/feller:001_tt2: Wow better give mesel a payrise for that.

Pure idle curosity, but, how much for the configeration in the video? Roughly? marcus

Front mount stroke processor, roof mount crane and forestry winch on the back? Winch em in, swing em round, cut them up? or front mount it to free up the back end for timber trailer, with roof mount crane.

Why was the excavator not fetching the next stick (or sticks, capacity dependant) while the delimber was processing. Instead of waiting unproductively to lift the cut lengths away. Then keeping the delimber waiting while he trundled off for the next stick. cheers m

Thanks Graham, cold chisels it was. I noted the use of an oven/kiln with digital temp display on the Neeman site video. There was a very good programme on some of the Sky channels following the traditional construction of a Samuri "Katanga". Started with smelting the steel from black sand in an adobe constructed charcoal fired kiln. Right through the smithing, heat treatment and hand grinding. I remember the application of a clay slurry to the near finished blade in order to control/restrict the heat absorption, during tempering I think. Keeping the cutting edge hard , but allowing the body of the sword to be tempered "tough" for resilence. Quite fasinating

Essentially simple, presuming the correct grade of tool steel/spring steel/carbon steel used. After blade is forged and shaped. Polish to a mirror finish. Heat red hot and quench in oil or water. That is it "hardened" Then gotta "temper", polish up again and then heat while carefully watching the colours form on the mirror finish, I remember blue and straw yellow. Then when the correct heat has been reached, judged by the succession of colours with increasing temperature, stop heating and allow to air cool slowly. That was the traditional blacksmith way, as I understood, that we were taught in metal-work away back in 1972 I loved metalwork, particularly the forge work PS I may be misremembering, but I believe essentially correct unless going hightech

Powder metallurgical stainless steel | Vanax Elmax for corrosion resistant hunting knives, tactical knives, hunting knives or Neemantools cheers m

Sad basket that I can be. From the stolen John Neeman Axe post I followed the link to the John Neeman site and thence via "Elmax" to the Swedish tool steel producers site. Proper "technoporn" Very clearly laid out in laymans English. Fascinating stuff.

Who was it wanted the ISO container thrown in to the deal:lol: Worth a try:thumbup:

Our brand new 640 Avant has been busy this past week doing a myriad of tasks. Another (expensive) wee honey. Basically replacing a (relatively) clumsy brute of an 80HP ag tractor loader. With the 4in1 bucket, grab an go, or lift the last morsel of topsoil without chasing it round half the site. And light and nimble enough to 3000kg trailer anywhere, fully legally. And no dry clutch to be abused.

I had a bloody narrow escape recently. House unlocked, shed lying open, popped over to the village for a message, got chatting, felt hungry, stopped for lunch etc. Got home about 3 hrs later, just about to start whatever I was in the middle of when an immacuately livered Peugeot Partner van turned up. Two men in their 30's or 40's with a child wedged in between. I had real difficulty in getting rid of them, fully focussed in keeping them in the Van. 2 wonderful lilting southern brogues, and Co Monaghan number plates I think. When they finally left I called the Police. Who bloody hell, had a squad car in the yard within 10 minutes. I was embarrassed to admit that I had neither got the numberplate, nor taken photos. Particularly annoyed with myself for not taking photos. I suspect we have a focus on "rural crime"/ crime here in N I. marcus

Wow, just spent an hour drooling. deeply impressive.

We "imported" one 13-15 year ago. "Syncro" Whether a T3 (prob) or a T4 I dont know. Still got it, getting scruffy A lovely thing to urban drive and to tow with, but undergeared for solo high speed work. currently considering a replacment m

Firebrick and an old hair dryer to provide the blow. Havney figgered the nozzle just yet. Sommat "off the peg" is out there awaiting to be inentified. And obviously fired with charcoal.

Brakes played up is all. Loader is painted with urine based paint, or just plain pish. Not sure which. Could be either. Wear evident in loader pins at very low hours/usuage too. And kept [properly greased. Steel hydraulic pipes beneath the RH side footwell are very very rusty. But a "wee honey"

"Scraw" the ground with a dung fork on the tractor loader. Dump in a pile and tread in with the tyres. Burn later if allowable.

I avoided the 14.5% South African red last night. Might face it at lunch today. And the rest of next week. A glass at a time. All I am fit for now. Sigh.

Ty, Lovely bit of kit, I am properly jealous. We bought (my decision) a 3720 JD for work, c/w JD loader, an absolute "wee honey", which punches well above its diminutive weight. I love it. PS I have made purchasing decisions that were not so good btw.