difflock

I would probably put a toe in the water, by expressing interest and making a sensible off beforehand. My experience of land auctions is that they tend to happen in slow time, though the couple of places we bid on had several lots and permutations of lots. If yer not in ye canny win. PS from my limited experience in the NI agric land market. Whatever it gets bid up to before the auction, generally gets doubled before the fall of the hammer. As a very rough NI guide.

Well it certainly is tarted up. PS Me not a MF fan.

OK Amazons excepted:001_tt2: low years?/motorway work?/known history?

Yep, Mod-sales could be pricy, but was it Marshalls? had a Valmet sourced from there at the last APF show (I believe) that was claimed to out lift/out perform a significently bigger New Holland. How closely their asking price is to the monies paid I dont know. But!, they sure are prepared to sit on stock for years, from my somewhat hapazard monitering of their site. cheers m

I noted an American "Pick-up" for sale on an Americal sales lot. Cummings diesel/Allison transmission. I dont remember the brand? a bargain at $20,000.00 and only 199,987 miles on the clock. Folk here would fall about laughing at giving going on for £15,000.00 for a truck with 200k miles on. Ps Amazons are bloody huge already, so Plus 3" is quite sommat.

My piece of string is yon long! How short is yours?

Consider the 2 valtras on sale ex RAF through mod-veh (withams) complete with very good loaders

On the question of size, I recall somewhere, once-upon-a-time, reading some Austrian or Swiss spec for military vehicles, which included a width/length/height limit. So as to all these vehicles to access otherwise inaccessible areas. America is indeed a large country, and so much of its infrastructure grew up around the motor vehicle, that they virtually never have any cause to pay heed to vehicle sizes being too big. For our old world sometimes meadieval, constraints.

Thanks Doobin, Since I got the wee 605 Fiat crawler.(she started first kick after being parked up for 3 months:thumbup:) I dont really need another:blushing: Anyway the T80 got proper mechinical transmission, so much better for hauling logs. Tis my excuse anyway:lol: I have seen a Mooroka or two come up for (UK) sale bytimes. But they looked entirely shagged out. And actually would have doubts about the rubber tracks gripping ability over stumps, compared to steel tracks, that is.

Well, still dreaming YANMAR | T-80 Comfort Cab Edition I reckon on the 18" tracks with the Krpan EH 5tonne winch on the back:thumbup: Edit, Would there be room in a 40' container for a big trailer sawmill as well Jonothan?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkXjAvxK-lQ]2007 Gremo 1050H Timber Harvester For Auction - YouTube[/ame] ?

A 9" clay lined vermiculate insulated 2 storey flue. Since 1996 we have run the Morso 6 months of the year. First 7 or 8 years 24/7 on Birch, heavy lump in last thing, and spin the knobs shut. rekindle from the embers in the morning. Occassional controlled chimney burn. Latter years running on Conifer, no point in even attempting to "overnight" but still burning daylight hours for 6 months of the year. No chimney fires of any sort. And/but Chimney never been cleaned in its 17 year life and still pulls like a train. marcus

Why are you adamant about the flat belt drive? I was not aware of any minimum length, except that a modicum of length, allowed for some reasonable pully misalignment. Which will be an issue with a short flat belt, I can only presume, if the misalignment is sufficient to overcome the crowning forces. Surely direct PTO shaft drive to a rigid mounted lay shaft with multiple "V" belt drive to the saw arbour shaft is best. Use short "V" belts. The alignment should be correct too? marcus

A good diggerman and mark 1 eyeball, plus a little uncommon sense. Plus as mentioned if it is wet enough to need draining/ditching and done in the wetter months, should be self explanatory. Assuming you have a higher end and a lower end. Simply strike one grade right through, end to end. Dead flat is OK for an open watercourse, cos it will simply silt up and find its own fall. The biggest "enemy" I have found down through the years is diggermen who "waste" fall needlessly. Quite frustrating. Plus the silt is good habitat for overwintering frogs. I generally get sheaughs in the Moss dug well overdeep, and let them sort the fall out themselves. Plus it means they should be good for 10 years. I actually enjoy "draining" very satisfying. Field drains should be 4 or 5 feet deep, sheaughs 6 foot easily. Those 4 or 5 foot deep drains dug with a spade 50 to 80 plus year ago in stiff stony red clay. Uncovered in cross-section on the family lands 30 or 40 year ago with one of the first tracked diggers an Atlas 1303 was it. And still running. Any modern tractor will destroy 2 foot deep drains

Hey, A winch tractor could be needed winch one out. Hold on.........................wait a minute

see NUFFIELD 4/65 Winch Tractor Tractors in Shaftsbury | Farmers Trader

Hmmm, Ah bin looking at racksaws again on ebay. I found a figure somewhere that says about 12,15,000sfpm, which for a 4 foot dia blade approx 12 feet in circ = about 1000-1250rpm So I could drive one direct off the 1000 PTO shaft. Is this about right? 84 (tired)HP permitting? marcus

Doh! I taught dat was a dumb bodge:001_rolleyes: of farmers son cut. So I can actually call mesel an "advanced" sawer/feller:001_tt2: Wow better give mesel a payrise for that.

Pure idle curosity, but, how much for the configeration in the video? Roughly? marcus

Front mount stroke processor, roof mount crane and forestry winch on the back? Winch em in, swing em round, cut them up? or front mount it to free up the back end for timber trailer, with roof mount crane.

Why was the excavator not fetching the next stick (or sticks, capacity dependant) while the delimber was processing. Instead of waiting unproductively to lift the cut lengths away. Then keeping the delimber waiting while he trundled off for the next stick. cheers m

Thanks Graham, cold chisels it was. I noted the use of an oven/kiln with digital temp display on the Neeman site video. There was a very good programme on some of the Sky channels following the traditional construction of a Samuri "Katanga". Started with smelting the steel from black sand in an adobe constructed charcoal fired kiln. Right through the smithing, heat treatment and hand grinding. I remember the application of a clay slurry to the near finished blade in order to control/restrict the heat absorption, during tempering I think. Keeping the cutting edge hard , but allowing the body of the sword to be tempered "tough" for resilence. Quite fasinating

Essentially simple, presuming the correct grade of tool steel/spring steel/carbon steel used. After blade is forged and shaped. Polish to a mirror finish. Heat red hot and quench in oil or water. That is it "hardened" Then gotta "temper", polish up again and then heat while carefully watching the colours form on the mirror finish, I remember blue and straw yellow. Then when the correct heat has been reached, judged by the succession of colours with increasing temperature, stop heating and allow to air cool slowly. That was the traditional blacksmith way, as I understood, that we were taught in metal-work away back in 1972 I loved metalwork, particularly the forge work PS I may be misremembering, but I believe essentially correct unless going hightech

Powder metallurgical stainless steel | Vanax Elmax for corrosion resistant hunting knives, tactical knives, hunting knives or Neemantools cheers m

Sad basket that I can be. From the stolen John Neeman Axe post I followed the link to the John Neeman site and thence via "Elmax" to the Swedish tool steel producers site. Proper "technoporn" Very clearly laid out in laymans English. Fascinating stuff.