Matthew Storrs
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Everything posted by Matthew Storrs
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are you allowed to run a tractor on red if you are undertaking agricultural fencing for famers? what happens if you then do a fencing job for someone who isn't a farmer?
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Christ- glad I don't have kids, sounds awful:laugh1:
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id get the 395, I have one and only very occasionaly wish I had a 3120, 395 gets used all the time whereas I can just see a 3120 sitting in the shed waiting for its 'time'.
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Pretty much sums up my thoughts today after trying out several different Teles in 2 different shops. The quality (very good quality IMO) and playability of the American standard Tele was always consistant. The Mexican made ones I tried varied considerably- 1 was excellent and I thought it rivalled the £1500 American 52 reissue in nearly all aspects. tried exactly the same Mexican in another shop- yuk yuk yuk. poor paint finish where neck joins body, loose volume knob and played horribly (probably needs a decent setup for this bit to be fair). I think I will shell out and go for the American standard tele- if I can find the right colour/maple neck somewhere! plus you get a nice hardcase with it.
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Tis only a 120kg hammer- it could handle up to a 200kg weight I think, but I like the lightweight one for working on steep ground and boggy stuff. It can struggle a bit on strainers tho if the ground is hard going hence the need for my auger/combination arrangement. The amount of jobs iv done where I would never have got the tractor there- reaching over walls/ditches on top of banks etc, woodland.
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Nice, I do like fenders with maple necks, are they Americans or Mexican made? If Mexican- how do you rate the build quality/tone etc? Also after a nice smallish valve amp- mainly country and blues- any suggestions? I think the VOX AC15 might be on my list to try.
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Im currently trying to think up a system where I can have the auger on my digger at the same time as my postknocker, the auger will fold out of the way under the arm when not in use and I plan to have a diverter valve on the hoses so I can just flick a tap to use either the auger or post knocker. I think it should all work well if I can get it right. That way I can predrill holes prior to knocking in strainers etc on hard ground- should help them go in nice and straight...
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Awesome- proper 80s photo:thumbup1:
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True, but I reckon if you in rough ground and you need to get gate posts all nice and plumb etc you're better off spending the extra time with the auger.
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Im going guitar shopping tomorrow, for a Tele, iv read excellent reviews for the Fender(Mexican made) Baja classic telecaster, but used own a beautiful (American made) Tele standard, now im buying again im wondering what difference the American Teles have over the better quality Mexicans like the Baja? They are both made by Mexicans after all!!
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Yes it would be a good idea to scan any ground around buildings prior to drilling. I was out in the middle of nowhere (on Dartmoor) and still managed to go through a phone line- what are the chances???
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what size digger are you considering- as you need to make sure you have enough flow/pressure to run bigger augers 12" dia+. A 1.5t will do most augering for fencing tasks.
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Also, you can get a cement mixer drum attachment which goes on where the auger bit goes. much cheaper than buying a cement mixer separately as long as you already have the auger drive unit.
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I don't personally find bricks a problem- the auger just either breaks them up or just forces them to one side. the hole might need cleaning out by hand a bit sometimes with a set of shuvholers.
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nice little setup- handy for backgardens, OP- this is what I mean with the cradle bracket- well worth it.
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Id say in reasonable soils- if your only doing 2ft deep holes you,d easily do 50 holes on a couple of hours. I did 20 holes for someone in shillet the other day. I unloaded the digger, tracked it round the back drilled 20 holes and had the machine back on the trailer within the hour. the holes were already marked out though.
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I have an augertorque auger on my takeuchi tb125 (3 tonner) its an exccellant bit of kit, I would recommend getting the auger with the cradle bracket, it makes positioning and travelling with the auger much more accurate and easier. Used to have one on a 1.5 ton digger too- also excellent and will dig a 4ft deep hole 8"dia in a minute, there wasn,t much it wouldn't bore through- hard compacted shillet, dense soils, compacted tracks. not through solid rock though. definiately recommend Augertorque.
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out of all iv tried I would agree, I had a lovely tb016 with a cab and selling it has to be one of my biggest regrets with my buisness, I have the size up now the TB125 which is also great but for sheer power to weight the TB016 swings it for me.
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Give them one shot to give me their best price, if I can afford it and want it i'll buy it, if not 'thankyou very much but i'll leave it for the time being'. I never reduce my price on jobs but if its a big job and nice customers I may do a bit for free if I can afford to and likewise when purchasing big items I have had the odd freebie thrown in.
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Interestingly, it would be interesting to know how many company owners actually do the climbing themselves and have a groundy as opposed to vice versa. I use a climber (I used to climb myself) almost entirely as I much prefer to do the groundwork as well as run the job in general, that way the climber can just concentrate entirely on the job itself rather than having to worry about little dramas unfolding on the ground (machinery breakdowns/customers etc). We are so much more productive working this way, I used to get much more stressed when I did the climbing myself and had groundies.
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Another vote for the Echo here, climber who works for me brought one at the APF to replace his aged ms200t. We are both well impressed with this saws capabilities, easily blocking down an Ash yesterday which was the full 14" across. It also handles very nicely. Would definiately buy another Echo top handle over the other 2 main offerings.
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I did demo the cs100 the other day and for the size I was really pretty impressed, However- it answer to my original question it won't cut the mustard for a large percentage of my jobs, We are a two man team when doing most tree work and im mostly on the ground on my own- trying to keep up with the climber is hard work enough on larger take down, and really I just want to crank the chipper on shove it all through and get back to grounding, I'm sure I would getfrustrated with the smaller machine, although on the right jobs and smaller jobs I can see it would come into its own. back to the drawing board for now but at least iv decided on this aspect.
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LANTRA strained wire fencing instructor required
Matthew Storrs replied to Spacey's topic in Training & education
a course in fencing wire techniques isn't a bad idea for people who otherwise have no experience or have had the opportunity to work with a contractor. However, if you are still needing a refresher course after 5 years it may not be the trade for you:laugh1: in all seriousness, if I start failing to get jobs because I don't have a 'fencing ticket' then I may have a few choice words to say about this (at times) ridiculous 'money for the boys' certification scheme which seems to be increasingly petulant:thumbdown: -
good advice, from my experience of working with machines on peat, if you break the surface you are unlikely to get your self out- get a pull before it gets too late:thumbup1:
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Don't play video games anymore but definiately goldeneye on N64 was always a hit- although I distinctly remember spending a large portion of the summer of 2006 playing GTA vice city.
