Matthew Storrs
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Everything posted by Matthew Storrs
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Yes it would be a good idea to scan any ground around buildings prior to drilling. I was out in the middle of nowhere (on Dartmoor) and still managed to go through a phone line- what are the chances???
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what size digger are you considering- as you need to make sure you have enough flow/pressure to run bigger augers 12" dia+. A 1.5t will do most augering for fencing tasks.
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Also, you can get a cement mixer drum attachment which goes on where the auger bit goes. much cheaper than buying a cement mixer separately as long as you already have the auger drive unit.
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I don't personally find bricks a problem- the auger just either breaks them up or just forces them to one side. the hole might need cleaning out by hand a bit sometimes with a set of shuvholers.
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nice little setup- handy for backgardens, OP- this is what I mean with the cradle bracket- well worth it.
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Id say in reasonable soils- if your only doing 2ft deep holes you,d easily do 50 holes on a couple of hours. I did 20 holes for someone in shillet the other day. I unloaded the digger, tracked it round the back drilled 20 holes and had the machine back on the trailer within the hour. the holes were already marked out though.
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I have an augertorque auger on my takeuchi tb125 (3 tonner) its an exccellant bit of kit, I would recommend getting the auger with the cradle bracket, it makes positioning and travelling with the auger much more accurate and easier. Used to have one on a 1.5 ton digger too- also excellent and will dig a 4ft deep hole 8"dia in a minute, there wasn,t much it wouldn't bore through- hard compacted shillet, dense soils, compacted tracks. not through solid rock though. definiately recommend Augertorque.
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out of all iv tried I would agree, I had a lovely tb016 with a cab and selling it has to be one of my biggest regrets with my buisness, I have the size up now the TB125 which is also great but for sheer power to weight the TB016 swings it for me.
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Give them one shot to give me their best price, if I can afford it and want it i'll buy it, if not 'thankyou very much but i'll leave it for the time being'. I never reduce my price on jobs but if its a big job and nice customers I may do a bit for free if I can afford to and likewise when purchasing big items I have had the odd freebie thrown in.
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Interestingly, it would be interesting to know how many company owners actually do the climbing themselves and have a groundy as opposed to vice versa. I use a climber (I used to climb myself) almost entirely as I much prefer to do the groundwork as well as run the job in general, that way the climber can just concentrate entirely on the job itself rather than having to worry about little dramas unfolding on the ground (machinery breakdowns/customers etc). We are so much more productive working this way, I used to get much more stressed when I did the climbing myself and had groundies.
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Another vote for the Echo here, climber who works for me brought one at the APF to replace his aged ms200t. We are both well impressed with this saws capabilities, easily blocking down an Ash yesterday which was the full 14" across. It also handles very nicely. Would definiately buy another Echo top handle over the other 2 main offerings.
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I did demo the cs100 the other day and for the size I was really pretty impressed, However- it answer to my original question it won't cut the mustard for a large percentage of my jobs, We are a two man team when doing most tree work and im mostly on the ground on my own- trying to keep up with the climber is hard work enough on larger take down, and really I just want to crank the chipper on shove it all through and get back to grounding, I'm sure I would getfrustrated with the smaller machine, although on the right jobs and smaller jobs I can see it would come into its own. back to the drawing board for now but at least iv decided on this aspect.
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LANTRA strained wire fencing instructor required
Matthew Storrs replied to Spacey's topic in Training & education
a course in fencing wire techniques isn't a bad idea for people who otherwise have no experience or have had the opportunity to work with a contractor. However, if you are still needing a refresher course after 5 years it may not be the trade for you:laugh1: in all seriousness, if I start failing to get jobs because I don't have a 'fencing ticket' then I may have a few choice words to say about this (at times) ridiculous 'money for the boys' certification scheme which seems to be increasingly petulant:thumbdown: -
good advice, from my experience of working with machines on peat, if you break the surface you are unlikely to get your self out- get a pull before it gets too late:thumbup1:
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Don't play video games anymore but definiately goldeneye on N64 was always a hit- although I distinctly remember spending a large portion of the summer of 2006 playing GTA vice city.
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wolf make very good loppers, had a pair for 6 years until I lost them somewhere- replaced by a heavier duty version they now make can cut upto 40mm- but they are not rachet type. perhaps ratcheting types are a bit of a gimmick??
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again, Ranger is a good all rounder, but again diffs are pretty puny compared to defender, comes down to what the majority of your work entails??
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might be just me, but I find the hilux/l200 clutches stink with a reversing with trailers etc, never smelt the clutch doing the heaviest trailer shunting with my landy, they are however pretty uncomfortable if you are doing long journeys and most landys have quirks like poor windscreen wiper/doors don't always shut the best, heating can be hit and miss, no doubt the hilux etc is much better in that respect but utility swings it over comfort for me,
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I think 7k is a very sensible amount to be spending on a truck, it will have done most of its depreciation by then, should still be a tidy respectable and reliable truck. 3k- unless you strike lucky you may well end up spending far more in downtime and repairs. Which truck- well you will get a load of replys suggesting all different trucks and their merits or issues. Id only have a landrover 110/130 for what you are suggesting as that's what I have and it has been an idestructable workhorse for the last 6 years and has good carrying capacity and towing capacity, not to mention superior off roading over the other pickups.
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I wonder if ticks prefer certain blood types or something, grew up on a farm, spend my weekends walking on the moors/camping and obviously working outdoors everyday and never had a tick?? Sounds a nasty business lymes disease.
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I use one of these, and mort ice out the joint, much neater than a chainsaw, can be used with a lump hammer so pretty much as quick too. Lanlee Supplies Limited - Product List - 2" FENCING CHISEL
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Birdseye maple?
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No stihl or husky's what would you be using today ???
Matthew Storrs replied to predator's topic in Chainsaws
probably choose them over S or H anyway:lol: -
Do you know what those brackets on top of the shear is for? I would be well pleased if I could cut even 6" trees/scrub off at base with a 3 tonner. Is there a knack to getting it to fall in the right direction too?
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Hi Eddie, That looks a cracking bit of kit, I would be interested for one on my 3 tonner. Can you use the 'pinch' for moving small trees out the way once you've cut them at base, just thinking for scrub clearance jobs....
