Matthew Storrs

I agree Jon, on the Same website they show a picture of my tractor towing a bale trailer with at least 18 round bales on, which would probably be 10ton plus- might be fine shunting it around a farm but no way id go on the road with that kind of weight.

That says 24 ton:scared1: Jon I was thinking 6 ton would be about right. Yes it is a light tractor, good on fuel:thumbup1:

Looking at various trailer options for my SAME Dorado 86 tractor. Im wondering what sort of weights an 86hp tractor weighing 3.5ton will safely handle on the road? The tractor has excellent disc braking on all 4 wheels and will stop on a sixpence and of course the trailer would have braking too. I will be towing up and down dale so to speak so don't want to a) kill the tractor and b)kill myself or anyone else by being pushed about by too large a trailer. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Is it though? I would consider that good money for 3 men (inc climber) and a chipper. I recon if you can't make a good enough profit out of the above figure you need to reconsider your overheads. I'm confident of what prices get work round here (Dartmoor) and those quoting over a grand for that tree simply wouldn't get it if the customer was getting other quotes. I love these threads, so much variety all the time:laugh1:

You'll be fine, fell what you can out but just be mindfull of any lumps hitting the tarmac. If in doubt lower it, there's a nice crown to work with. Good luck!

Cool, Did anyone else notice the rat(?) that was in the street in the backround for the first minute and then ran across the street just after the woman put money in his case!

At least I reckon, I do mine every 4k miles which is about every 6months.

This sums it up for me, im exactly the same and quite happy to work with the competition as and when. Perhaps those in a more urban environment can get away with being a bit more 'ruthless'?

Fair enough, each to their own:001_smile:

Sounds like you get on all right with them to me, do they know of your tactics with the TPO applications?

If you can't get any luck from my suggestions- try the 'Zetorworld' forum, some helpful members on there...

Not turned off as such, but there is (from memory) a 'diverter' tap which is also situated underneath the cab. These series tractors were originally designed without a cab and the cab being retro designed annoyingly covers access for some pretty essential maintenance (you'll no what I mean when if you need to bleed your brakes ever. The cab can be jacked up a bit, take out the 2 bolts that go through the cab shock absorbers on the rear or the cab (as you stand looking at the 3PL from the rear 1 bolt on each side of the cab. By using a small bottle jack you should be able to jack the cab up a few inches (before the font of the cab pushed up agaist the bonnet) wedge the cab to stop it sitting back down and you should now be able to see the various connecting rods going from the 3PL down into the gear box. Lever on the floor (on the right) is the low box, low/high ratio.

OH Christ, that reminds me, the manuals are horrific- very badly translated to English- but gives you an idea I guess! The Beauty of the Zetors is you barely need wiring if you are just using it on a farm/yard. Most of the wiring is for luxurys like the lights/heaters etc. As long as it starts your good to go.

I'd prefer to stay on good terms with my competition, word spreads.

15/40 Havoline mineral in my 300 TDI- good engines IMO.

It will lift it- in a pretty creaky kind of way. I used to have a postdriver on mine which was a ton, it was ok. The 3PL lever is the lever nearest the righthand wheel arch as you sit in the seat. The PTO lever/clutch is on the left/looks like a handbrake. You have both 540 & 1000 speed too on that tractor- lever down in between your feet just before the step In the cab.

Have you checked the gearbox oil? Assuming you have- and it still doesn't move does it make a difference whether the tractor is pointing up or down hill? Also just check the levers which control the 3PL are connected under the cab properly- you may have to jack the cab up a little to get to them- I used to have a 7045 (4wd version of yours) and I remember there was a little split pin which connected the two rods together and this had come out.

The only reason I don't run Zetors any more is because the brakes were so hopeless and I do quite a lot of roadwork- it was an accident waiting to happen. If you were relying on it to get you to a job on a regular basis then I woud say it probably isn't the right tractor- they are slow on the road too! But for yard/field work were you don't have to worry about the safety issue as much, then definiatly good robust tractors. The old zetors are fetching quite good money (mainly due to demand from the polish) so if its been offered to you at good money and a couple months down the line find it just isn't for you, you'd be able to sell it like hotcakes!

Legendary tractor, Some say the crystals were the best zetors that came out of Brno. Won't be a problem if your splitter is PTO run but the auxilarry hydraulics are generally pretty poor on the ur1 & crystal series Zetors. Parts are cheap but getting hard to get hold of now, there are still a few sources. That said they are pretty robust tractors, my Dads been running them for 40 years or so and iv had two. couple of things which always let them down for me, S**T brakes, the slave cylinders are pretty poor quality it seems and are forever leaking/brakes need bleeding, fairly weak hydraulics as mentioned, and you will probably always have a leak from the tractor somewhere- seals aren't there strong point it seems. However- engine and gearboxes are bulletproof and I mean bulletproof- they take some serious punishment and neglect and yet go on and on. Also Zetors in general are heavy tractors- they are well constructed and basic, consequently they pull very well, they just seem to grip. Oh yeah, the air compressor comes in handy too, the crystal will have one.

Id either have - 1) A tidy unimog u1600 towing a multipurpose dump trailer loaded with Takeuchi TB145 5ton digger with a grab and also a postdriver. The unimog would have a front mounted chipper which fires the chip into the back and id also have a postknocker to go on the front of mog too. Setup 2) Landcruiser (like at the arbshow) which had a chip body on towing a greenmech safetrak 19-28, Id also have a 3 ton digger (with grab) and a tracked postdriver for the landcriser to tow too. watch this space!

I assume you tip the chip off on site somewhere, otherwise how do you plan on getting the chip and chipper back on the same trailer? or is it just to eliminate another journey at the start of the day?

Not really, otherwise going by that method all your customers should also have EL. If you get a company to complete works on you behalf, they turn up when they want- get the job how they decide best (albeit to your specs) and cover the job with their own staff or equipment then they are a bona-fide subcontractor and they will have their own EL. If however you employ a labour only subbie- they are working entirely under your direction, they don,t decide how or when the job is going to be run simply just supply their labour then they need to be covered under your EL. they are not bonafide.

Sounds nasty- glad he was ok:thumbup1:

I can't say that picture fills me with much confidence of Landrovers ROP system, being a van back would of helped but dread to think if that had been a truck cab:thumbdown: How did it happen, did the trailer tip first taking the landy with it?

When im dangling off the last thread:laugh1: seriously- every 3 years (I don't climb that often) and then it becomes the pulling rope:thumbup1: