antipesto

Trouble is if you don't sell them an artic load there's always someone else who will. Personally I would find the most gnarly hard splitting wood I could. By the time they cut it and split it and stored it for 12 months, bought a chainsaw, fuel and oil, wear and tear, bars/chains, axe etc, they may just see how much work goes into processing a load of logs and not moan at the price of seasoned split logs delivered

I'm with easy-lift guy here. The dealer is a bit daft to pay for it with no v5, it's a bit like buying a stolen car for cash off a stranger with no documents. I think he will struggle to get his money back unless the thief is caught. It seems that the gps tracker has really payed for itself here

Suppose there's good ones and bad ones, I seem to have been lumbered with the bad ones:001_rolleyes:

Forget the 357xp too much trouble with air leaks, bad intake boots/clamps, auto decompression, bad carbs, etc, etc, etc...........A good powerfull saw when it's working, but the emphasis being on when. The 560xp has a bad name for starting when hot and cutting out and hasn't been out over long, doesn't say much for long term reliability does it. So what are the other options the ms362 isn't a patch on the ms361, 346xp and 372xp both good saws but not in the 60cc league. All in all they just don't make them like they used to:thumbdown: Husqvarna should bring back the 262xp - maybe put a shiny xp sticker on the top and paint the side case silver but leave the rest of it well alone

Powerlines, house, hedge........... Plus one of wettest, heaviest trees in the uk. All it needs now is some jean clad gardener with a length of blue rope to buy a fake stihl off ebay and what can possibly go wrong:lol::lol:

Can you burn the brash on site instead of chipping it:thumbup1:

Have you looked on guntrader.co.uk - New and second hand Shotgun, Rifle, Air Rifle and Air Pistol for Sale might be worth a look

I would probably say the clutch is knackered or maybe the drive sprocket has rounded off etc. Strip it and see, should be a cheap fix and well worth it on a 660:thumbup1:

I would personally try to find a low hours older model 8200/8150/8350/6650 etc rather than the newer models. The older ones are better suited to the forestry job, with less electrics, better guarding underneath and enclosed fuel tanks in the chassis instead of a great big plastic tank to break etc. Newer valtras seem to be more focused on agriculture than forestry imo

"What would an approximate cost of a replacement Engine be?" Why not rebuild the original engine? If it's siezed take the head off, free off the pistons and clean the bores, clean up the head and reseat the valves, rebuild with a new gasket set and in the pub before 5 o'clock:thumbup1:

I personally wouldn't worry about it but your firewood customers may well do. They may be thinking their house will be eaten away but it's often just the holes left by the larval stage of the beetles which have long gone. As said mix a small ammount in each load. Ash seems to attract woodworm in the bark when left to season for a while, I had about 10 tons of it a couple of years ago and burnt the lot on an open fire with no coal used at all. Brilliant stuff and the house is still standing

As above really - register on thehuntinglife and search for "bodygrip" there are loads of pictures of different setups for mink,rabbit,rat, squirrel etc. Some are much quicker to make and simpler than mine and work just as well, don't over complicate things keep it simple. These pictures show simple ground anchors which can be made in under 5 mins with a welder and a bit of flat plate and a few nails. The 1st can be screwed into a fence panel or tree branch and the 2nd pushed into the ground. A very versatile trap indeed

Hi Paul, the box is about 2' long and 8" x 8" external giving roughly 6" x 6" internal size. It has a 3" diameter hole at each end. The trap (116bg) is held in place by some small nails to support it. I prefer the 116 as they have a longer spring than the 110 and aren't as fiddely as the double spring 120-2. There is a sliding door to allow fitting and setting of the trap. My only modification on this box would be to make the sliding door bigger or a different design to allow removing the trap with a squirrel in it easier. I also added a bit of mesh to the inside to allow easier climbing. A few links below - 1st shows Paul Parker controlling squirrels using fenns with his own design of box/tunnel, 2nd link thehuntinglife is a good site for info on trapping, snaring and general pest control - there is a good article on there by Glen Waters about snaring squirrels, and finally "Squirrrel wars" 24mins of Paul Parker in action All the best Mike http://www.pestmagazine.co.uk/_attachments/resources/59_s4.pdf Snaring, Trapping & Pest Control - The Hunting Life Squirrel Wars: Red vs Grey - 4oD - Channel 4

bodygrip 116 or conibear 120-2 in a mesh tunnel are a lot cheaper than the kania 2000 and work a treat. Mk 4 fenn although approved for squirrels aren't really powerfull enough in my opinion, go for Mk 6 instead. Legally traps need to be checked every day and natural or artificial tunnels need to be used to prevent capture of non target species

Eat plenty of Marmite

Had a few visiting an apple tree in the garden last summer, not seen any this year yet This one was caught in a wasp trap. With an average sized wasp underneath for comparison

I have been looking for a similar thing myself. I'm thinking about a double garage with one side for the car and the other for the tools, take a look at Wooden garages Timber garages prefab timber framed garages garage wales uk they look good for the price:thumbup1:

My thoughts exactly, did they leave it on the pavement and close it to pedestrians or are they still there with that blunt axe

How can they say it has been run on neat fuel if the cylinder wall and the piston is ok If run on neat fuel the piston would be very badly scored on the exhaust side. The crank bearings would eventually go due to overheating with no lubrication, but not before the top end goes. I would guess at faulty crank bearings

I'm not sure on the 362 but I run a stihl 361W with an 18" bar on it. I don't personally notice any real drop in power with the heated handles on or off I'm sure the right dealer would sell you one with an 18" or 20" for a few quid more than the 16"

Me too

Hi, I am about to give one of my stoves the once over (esse 700 mulitfuel), new door seals, a good clean out and a bit of heatproof black aerosol I need to get the fire rope that goes vertically between the two doors and the bigger stuff that seals each door to the firebox. Question is what size is it I have looked all through the manual and there is no size info. How do you go about measuring it when it will be compressed smaller than the new stuff? Any help appreciated

I would go for the decomp valve blanking bolt 503552201 rather than the manual blue valve as I never use them on these size saws. I find even without use they will leak a small amount and you will get a black oily mark around them. The blanking bolt is also cheaper than a valve The spring clip for the crankcase cap can be fun to fit aswell, mine shot out of the pliers and was found behind the washing machine - it took longer to find than fit:001_rolleyes:

Unfortunately:001_rolleyes: just suffered from a broken hoodie:laugh1: