twmarriott

nice to see a rack mill being used. here you go got our toy sawing wood last week for the first time in three years!

no, i only know this as a steam engine owner, 2 and have one that could be pulled by horses (Circa 1864) portable, there are several versions of horse power, the 1st was used to compare output of steam engines with horses used in haulage and winding in mines Watt determined that a pony could lift an average 220 lbf (0.98 kN) 100 ft (30 m) per minute over a four-hour working shift. Watt determined that a horse could turn a mill wheel 144 times in an hour (or 2.4 times a minute). The wheel was 12 feet in radius; therefore, the horse travelled 2.4 × 2π × 12 feet in one minute. Watt judged that the horse could pull with a force of 180 pounds. So:force x distance / time worked out at 32572 ft.lbf / min which was rounded up to 33,000 ft·lbf/min figure so hp was a force a pony was assumed at %50 of this. steam engines are measured generally in Nominal horse power, nhp is an early Nineteenth Century rule of thumb nhp = 7 x area of piston x equivalent piston speed/33,000 we have a 6hp wallis and a 6 hp portable, both are approx 40-50 brake hp but fenominal torque.

12 bore with shot replaced by rock salt, works a treat

i've had landies since i passed my test in a 2A, theyre agric, basic and can be difficult to drive, but i like them and i wanted to keep the british employed making them, sadly the lack of service and worsening quality of the product has left me wondering. It was interesting to see the dealer, deny any problem, say it was "within tolerance" even though they admitted noise and do nothing.... and see at least one other on here has had similar problem. next time (even looking for a 110 now as baby's due may! my 20-30k will go elsewhere, they couldn't even be bothered to call back with a price when i said we were looking to upgrade the 90 to a crew cab 110!

i have to say i was of that opinion, that said as we live next door my mrs was a bit waspy about it! i know the neighbours aren't happy as one's already had the tree police over from the forrestry comission, though its scrappy wood, top half over grown larch originally for pit props and the rest out grown coppice, it is scheduled ancient, that said there are no large trees there any more but i doubt the'd let them clear fell an area, without a planting schedule. i don't really want to upset the rest of the neighbours with it... if i could say the planning was ok.. or one way or the other i'd rest easier!

funny i did wonder about asking about thermal stores on here! we're on our 2nd following a move 355sfw which is the multifuel version, running 12 rads, 350 ltr thermal store for mains pressure hot water and its a great bit of kit. does all cooking bar defrosting in the microwave but eats wood, usually use steam coal to mix with it, but works well, we manage to keep it in all year round and its free (sepecially with left over steam coal and wood from the farm)

we've just had 25 acres of pretty much usless wood next to our woodland sold for silly money, any way the new owners want to put 250 meters of hard road in there.....i presume eventually as a precoursor to development any way they've asked can i haul the stone / hardcore, i'm happy to do so but reasonably sure it'd be in breech of planning? any ideas?

got a year old tdci its crap, i wish i had kept the tdi i sawped for it! the build quality is worse, done nearly 30k box wines terribly and although its fast the economy is crap, much worse than mrs' td5 ,dealer back up is none existant and landrover don't care. i'm going jap next time!

to be honest its good practice to leave any fresh timber upright for some time (dependant on how wet it is) to dry to stop it going mouldy, scrubbing and hot water may bring it back but i suspect the colour may be screwed up. its a steep learing curve, if timber dries too quickly it will check and split, its a balancing act.

put a bit of unleaded on the live cambium that will kill it. and cheaper than roundup! just!

i did make a lathe to turn a 14" square lump or oak 17 foot long for a water mill shaft, used an i section girder and two landrover axles, i'll dig out the pics somewhere, used a angle grinder with a carving disk running along a steady, to make a perfect cylinder, then sanded it.

we use most of them but not usually at once. two are in bedrooms which are rarely used. never had any problem with our ovens temp, in fact its been off the scale at times, you have to keep the flue ways cleaned out. the biggest problem is getting decent coal now. rayburns not so fussy but the open fires are, so we riddle the ashes and re-burn the left over coals/ lumps in the godin in our boot room or rayburn. we've been getting coal at 260/tonne from edenbridge near stamford. local merchants are cr@p. always keep a few sleepers or telegraph poles for reserve heat.

we get through 3 ton of coal and probably 5 of logs, its the 2nd brand new 355sfw we've had, it runs a heat store for mains pressure hot water (works very well) and central heating for 11 rads, its right on the limit if you wind all the trv's up. we did put 2 inches of cellotex all over the external house walls before we plaster boarded it and it made a huge difference. we've 8 open fires as well so probably get through wood more with those. usage depends on wind, it will stay in fine over night but can be a pig if the winds wrong or howling. good thing about the rayburn is that it will digest anything you can put in it, nappies have good calorific value!

walnut is a difficult one, after milling about 60 odd trees over the years i've only ever had one good one, worth about 8k after milling.

sadly you can't get solid fuel agas now and they only ever ran on smokeless fuels any way, didn't like wood. The rayburn we have is much better and will burn anything and runs 10 rads and mains pressure hot water via a heat exchanger. Tirolia cookers aren't pretty but are good, and proabably more suited to timber as they have a larger fire box. my grand parents had one. still not convinced with paper logs though too much ash. Glossy mags will kill a rayburn. Wood chip for smoking isn't a bad idea though!

i'm a perfectionist, and as my wife says i'm the hardest person on myself, as i always want a perfect job, theres nothing wrong with some self apprasial, and generally every job i do gets a post mortem, but beating yourself up too much is bad. whats put in previous posts is very good advise. NO ONE should ever chastise any one for asking questions, however daft, you have to lear some how, a mistake is only bad if you don't learn from it and keep making the same ones.

don't know where you are but were in worcester and have a big 4wd tractor and winch and would be interested in the oak buts

this the list is journalistic tosh at best, i've personally had had various stoves including an 1860 coal range, present stoves include a morso squirell is good for a small one, we had a villager 16kw flat top in the dining room and a rayburn 355sfw in the kitchen, all different but did their job. bst workshop stove was a romesse, or a R6 from the hot spot, both ran on anything timber and gave out good heat.

this is what you want, i'm sure theres still money in shingles, if you had something like this to crank them out. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQtrK01j83I&NR=1]YouTube - Lane Shingle Mill[/ame]

keeps the top rotating to head to wind via gears and a rack or worm, the top (cap) has to face the on coming wind, otherwise the theing can come a cropper and either loose sails or top lift off. Talent... not sure, i've done it now for 17 years, one way or another, theres only a handfull of us who rebuild such things but to be honest reda tape is killing it, when i first got a job, the old chap i worked for just went out looked at it, you had two prices one for working one for static, sent a letter, got a job, did it recieved cheque, now its all managed, programed, risk assessed, i'm doing less of it, more milling timber and playing with my steamer and ag contract work to pay the bills! its got to be similar in the arb world too? any way back to the thread... if you know what you want, its not difficult to draw it up yourself. but if you know a tame architect for house extensions its handy as building regs are constantly changing, there are some good books about i'll hunt them out, failing that pm me , and if your in no rush i'll draw something up when i get a minute, it really is that easy. but if you are building it yourself make it easy and pick standard timber sizes and mortice sizes.

yep, though it'll never run, its council owned, thats the bread and butter day job, when not sawing timber. heres a few more, it blew over in 2003 and i was subbed to an out fit near henley on thames who rebuilt it done quite a few others too and last summer new top and sails at bardwell

i've only ever done one conventional house type building but how about this? that woudl look much nicer in your garden? finished

its jonathans to sell, i'd give him a call, on the number i posted.

must add that a stenner is the rolls royce of larger fixed / band mills. would look something like this

well i live in that triangle, not got a mog but a ford tw15 and mounted chipper, and a 12 ton dump trailer any good?