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twmarriott

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Everything posted by twmarriott

  1. if cash was no issue and i could have anything, i'd have a big traveling horizontal such as a tom sawyer, you put the log down and the carrage with the blade runs through on tracks, great bit of kit, nice wide band 3-4 inch borrowed one in warks a couple of times. not that many about never seen another though and very expensive when put in too.
  2. not massive, probably 3foot or so. i've already an 85 so it seems daft to get an 84! that said he's a mate of my dads, retiring and wants to do me a favour so i'll probably have to buy it (politically it'd look bad if i didn't) but sell one. i did wonder if there was much market for such an old saw, theyre pretty out of date... i'm going to have to offer market price ish... though i expect it will get discounted... as i said its been looked after.
  3. Been offered a stihl 084 AV but already got a large saw so don't really need it, that said i could move it on...it looks in good order (one owner) runs fine, but i'm aware its a big heavy lump and theyre not exactly fashionable now.... if i'm going to go down that route of selling it on whats it worth? had a look on flea bay and theres nowt that big. and before some clever person says what some on will pay... yep but give me a clue... i reconed around the 400-600 mark?
  4. its also known as ambrosia beetle, it has a two year cycle, first into the cambium, 2nd into the rest, if its dry it will cycle fly /go and thats it. if its kept damp it'll go for another year at least. what you look to have is first stage so it will fly provided its kept dry that will be it, you can paint / spray sovereign or similar on it but not much point. it will also live in down timber not sawn (not dry enough) i had 12 or so large oak butts that would make joinery grade, sadly not enought time to plank, so now like swiss cheese, not enough to structurally effect but enough to fu*k up the joinery premium. still live and learn, i now plank nearly straight away as once the surface is dry its too hard for it, so will only get as far as cambium level.
  5. apple, thorn, crab, cherry or beech will work, made 100s of them before, it needs to be bone dry if you want apple i've seasoned boards but not that many really dry i'm assuming its for heage windmill?? thats the only one in derbys. operating? elm is used for the actual gear i had some of big J for a windmill gear i made last year. that was 8' diameter with 109 hornbeam coggs.
  6. i once missed out on buying a big horizontal like this, cracking bit of kit. i too have been there, but like i said, best kept under your hat. places like this do still exist i'll dig out some pics.
  7. sorry for the delay in replying yes and yes, you can get the teeth from Edwards precision saws wiveliscombe,

    and theres a place in sheffield (you'll have to take you plade there) called walker atkinson saws and the chaps name is ian, its well worth watching, they tensioned my 6' blade a treat.

  8. they're good kit but crack between the gullets on the blades, the pulleys are too small for the blade gauges with wide 3-4 inch bands, if they were as good as they promised they'd be everywhere, we borrowed one for a weekend and planked some ash and oak, cut about 150 cube in two days between two of us, but sadly cost around 400 in blades, 5 blades cracked up) it would mabe be the thing to look at with larger pulleys in a rebuild???
  9. how on earth did you get landrover to do that??? done 30k in our 09 one, gearbox is terrible... they don't want to know...! i'd look at the upgrade on ours once the warranty is up but i'm not convinced the box will stand it!
  10. i'll see what i can do... theres a video of the barrows on face pest Here
  11. sounds to me like the pto clutch is slipping.
  12. 1864=6 built banbury only one like it, just had new boiler, runs at 50psi, wooden wheels, ended up in the 1920s in huntingdonshire driving a carpenters shop, i got another 1914 wallis in bits but thats a big long term project
  13. if any one has any large bits of hornbeam, preferably in the worc. or adjacent warks, brum etc we allways buy it for cogg teeth in wind and water mills. very underated timber hornbeam.
  14. rayburn still in here, waiting for summer coal price reduction!
  15. that tree was worthless except firewood, it wasn't big enough and having looked at 100s of walnut trees over the years i've only ever had one worth any thing, that fetched about 6k but was a lot of hassle to get the root ball too. theres no easy money for walnut, 99.9% is rubbish the small portion which is ok is hard work and can be espensive with a digger, removal and transport!
  16. the biggest problem we have is transport, i'd love to buy saw logs locally but theres not enough useable stuff available, most tree surgeons are making too much ringing them up, most stuff i saw is for our own consumption, but it'd pay us to use the mill more. its a difficult one..... like you said get the market.... then the rest will follow
  17. here you go two of ours, about 120 years between them!
  18. the expensive bit is nice, had to be as its making cart wheel rims, so got to be stable, extra extra dry and no incipient or checking. firewood i get around 100 for a 1ton bag locally. its easier to ring a tree than cart it back to our mill, and spend a day sawing and sticking it to dry
  19. large horizontal band mill like a forrester in brown oaks post, swing mills are hard work.
  20. for the work involved and price at the moment better money in fire wood. theres money in milling but theres a lot of waste in ash, oak isn't so bad but firewood is easy money, you may end up milling and seasoning a load of firewood..especially if you don't know what your at. as for ash i've just paid over 1000 for a 6" thick 2foot wide slab 16 foot long. time for me to find some large butts and wind our mill up me thinks. if any one has some up for grabs, south shrops, north worcs. pm me.
  21. nice to see a rack mill being used. here you go got our toy sawing wood last week for the first time in three years!
  22. no, i only know this as a steam engine owner, 2 and have one that could be pulled by horses (Circa 1864) portable, there are several versions of horse power, the 1st was used to compare output of steam engines with horses used in haulage and winding in mines Watt determined that a pony could lift an average 220 lbf (0.98 kN) 100 ft (30 m) per minute over a four-hour working shift. Watt determined that a horse could turn a mill wheel 144 times in an hour (or 2.4 times a minute). The wheel was 12 feet in radius; therefore, the horse travelled 2.4 × 2π × 12 feet in one minute. Watt judged that the horse could pull with a force of 180 pounds. So:force x distance / time worked out at 32572 ft.lbf / min which was rounded up to 33,000 ft·lbf/min figure so hp was a force a pony was assumed at %50 of this. steam engines are measured generally in Nominal horse power, nhp is an early Nineteenth Century rule of thumb nhp = 7 x area of piston x equivalent piston speed/33,000 we have a 6hp wallis and a 6 hp portable, both are approx 40-50 brake hp but fenominal torque.
  23. 12 bore with shot replaced by rock salt, works a treat
  24. i've had landies since i passed my test in a 2A, theyre agric, basic and can be difficult to drive, but i like them and i wanted to keep the british employed making them, sadly the lack of service and worsening quality of the product has left me wondering. It was interesting to see the dealer, deny any problem, say it was "within tolerance" even though they admitted noise and do nothing.... and see at least one other on here has had similar problem. next time (even looking for a 110 now as baby's due may! my 20-30k will go elsewhere, they couldn't even be bothered to call back with a price when i said we were looking to upgrade the 90 to a crew cab 110!
  25. i have to say i was of that opinion, that said as we live next door my mrs was a bit waspy about it! i know the neighbours aren't happy as one's already had the tree police over from the forrestry comission, though its scrappy wood, top half over grown larch originally for pit props and the rest out grown coppice, it is scheduled ancient, that said there are no large trees there any more but i doubt the'd let them clear fell an area, without a planting schedule. i don't really want to upset the rest of the neighbours with it... if i could say the planning was ok.. or one way or the other i'd rest easier!

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