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TrollSpiel

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Everything posted by TrollSpiel

  1. Thanks bud. I know NZ is a big place, but it's the home to weta studios and the carpenters that built lord of the rings, and in my books, the finest craftsmen that exist. So there might be one more local than you think ;-) my own work is in no small part thanks to them
  2. I get your point, totally! The legs are often an afterthought with many furniture makers. And I would say the same as you here. While no man has the right to critique another's work ( I'm personally sick of that current 'everyone has a valid opinion' trend, it's a load of kak) but I will say, in building ones furniture, a quote comes to mind by George Clinton. ( Parliament Funkadelic )......"nothing is funky unless you play with it"
  3. Thank you Nick! Well, I've seen some right old toot for sale " aged repro ", few boards bashed together, hit a bit, given an old name, 3500£ I milled this timber 3 year ago. Dried it, kilned it and so on. Just yesterday I set those 25mm spheres in the resin, gotta wait a week till I can sand it out. Then more resin. Another week. The carving took a week, and so on. The lacquering will take AGES, cos between sprays it will need to be hard enough to work with, and then a few weeks on the last coats before the final rubbing out - to a 1500 grit gloss. I want this top flawless like glass. As a tradesman, my daily rate is huge, and I've spent lots of days on this. Today I went to select milling timber from my old boss (top bloke) and he said, that table has gotta be worth 5k finished. We shall see
  4. (roars) Bench?!!! ;-) Dining table!
  5. Thnkyou Andy. Another month and it should start looking as I see it in my head
  6. thank you kind sir ;-) i was wondering how to get the words tits and arse into the title, but ive done that before
  7. i have used wests, ariba (rubbish) but now use AS composites. With big pieces, the key is heat-buildup drags air out of the wood causing bubbles.. so use less activator and go for a slower curing time, and do it in layers. any tackiness can be taken off with neat washing up liquid, no need to cover with clingy
  8. Last time I posted here, some sanctimonious muppet actually replied telling me how to make a dowel !! and I thought, I cant be bothered posting. But, here is a piece I'm getting a lot of comments on elsewhere, so I thought i'd share it. It ain't finished yet, a good way to go (bleaching, staining, resin shaping, 10x coats of lacquer....) This post is, in part, a nod to the many superb craftsmen on this site who post, who's ideas continually get me to push the boat out with my own stuff. hardest part was the carving - ive never carved before. the carving itself was pretty easy, the drawing out [freehand!] took a good few hrs, cos i can barely hold a pencil... top is 7.5ft, by 120cm wide - one lovely slab, ringshake n'all. ("apparent" top bow is the camera lens, so save me a lecture on router-milling, or how to use sandpaper, oh sanctimonious one!)
  9. that gothic doorway is cracking ;-) i might have to rob that one!
  10. Hi Steve,

     

    few considerations for this, perhaps a call is best..

     

    07944111000

  11. 10ft., lovely... bout time i built me one of them
  12. jonathan. any idea on delivery cost of say 10 CuF to farthest kent?
  13. Nice big heavy wadkin is great if you're not limited for space cos you've got table saws, bandsaws, linishers and everything else there too. I use a scheppach. I'd consider them a bit of a toy / hobby machine. But Ive really wound some wood over and under that thing. takes up to 26cm. Can move it around my small workshop when I need to, sharpen my own knives, and if you set your machines up properly (there is an art to getting it right, esp for jointing) a bang on good machine. but if you're winding masses of timber thru it day long, get something beefier.
  14. I havent seen a pic that brought out a vocal 'ooo' in a long time.. That poplar / blue , top stuff SB ! table aint half bad either.
  15. Canoeboy, look at the growth ring markings in the boards in these pics, and the effects of warping 1/4 sawing is the best way to minimise drying defects - and likely a few other things which others might enlighten you on.
  16. a few times ive read you saying 'one day i'll attempt some proper joinery'. Really, don't bother mate, just carry on with what you're doing. crackingly good!
  17. bloody awesome, right up my street as a bit of wood-art.
  18. the upright it perfect.. the only thing i'd add... i know ALL birdhouses seem to come with small bases, and then fall over... few 12mm holes in the base so you can hammer a few bits of studding into the ground.. i had to do it with my own
  19. Hey mark, dont quote me on this in future, but I was told by 'worm products' people, that the worms are already in the wood - or the laid eggs are - and when the temp/cycle is right, the new worms hatch out. as far as new attacks, I guess a treatment of barrantines or a pyrethrin based product before your finish might be good - i do that. I cant see wax or lacquer making much odds to a beastie that wants to get in for a munch... 240 is plenty i think. i know it's macracarpa but you never know when you'll get some grain lifting soon as you put the first bit of something on it - and a finish is generally obtained from rubbing out anyway...
  20. S'ok, I don't have a downer on the scots, I'm part welsh / French ( could it get much worse? ) but matey there just furthered that stereotype of the scots being an angry bunch always p***** off about something. And people with those kind of issues just grind me down a bit. Anyroad, thankyou, Compliments ( and criticisms when not delivered with a patronising grudge ) always appreciated ;-)
  21. Thank you mr. And a surrogate you say? How appalling for the local community. My thoughts are with them in their bereavement....

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