TrollSpiel

bit of all 3 agrimog. hand planes, makita 110mm and a jointer bench. aye, the doors.. there was hard lines everywhere else, I wanted to put some softness into it. A bit like adding ash to it, I find too much oak can be a bit full on - I like mixing woods in the same piece. I like sanding edges where boards are joined - not because the jointing is bad, but as you say, gives it that handmade look. I'm definitely into softness in things, I spend my working life building for people with 5mill to spend on their interiors, and everything is ikea cold, hard, characterless - I like a bit of rough in my own things.

ive a 15ft kiln at home. plugs. i wouldn't even put a screw in that cabinet, all jointed, biscuited etc. Little items like the unplugged things, I really couldn't care less on small Items or things that generally aren't seen. I like rawness. I coulda completely changed the look of the cabinet by a str8 edge on the doors, just like some sterile ikea cabinet. some would say, oh dont put ash with oak, or dont do this, dont do that. And being the irreverent c''' that I am, I just do things my way, as I like em not EVERYTHING needs an anal attention to detail. (unless youre scottish)

well y' know maybe I dont WANT to. maybe it dont mean that much to me, a PLANT HANGER in a bathroom.. damned scots, always so uptight about something. but hell, just this once I'll bow and scrape before your omnipotent perspective:congrats:

water based lacquer. to keep socket low, and still get a plug in over a 1.5" skirt, you have to do something....

Maybe, just maybe, I didn't want to plug it, in case I change my mind and want to take that rail down. oh yeah, ta for telling me how to make a dowell, i'd never have worked that out for myself... sometimes, I come across a right dick..

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My apologies if the following series of pics looks like a showcase for a business website, but that's exactly what they are, for my own. None the less, this is a bathroom (not all aspects shown) all built via the AM & an 880. Oak, Ash, pyranha pine, Chestnut, Hornbeam. Kiln died at home. 1.5" oak skirting. 3" oak bench - (a must to get your boots off) 85cm high 2&3" oak basin cabinet , Ash edging, Ash block recessed / joining 3" oak sides. Spray lacquered. Wrought metalwork and butterfly hinges, fleur hooks. 160x90 Hornbeam mirror - lacquered. Plant hanging beam above window, oak and hornbeam supports - cut style like stealth-bomber angles. Oak block Orchid stand. Chestnut twin toilet roll holder. Chestnut wipes holder. pyranha table for ipad - a must in the bathroom ;-) Oak walk-in shower not pictured cos i've not got time to finish it until the weekend. Never really thought you'd have much use for an alaskan mill? :-) (ok, you'd need a fair bit of other workshop machinery too...

I use sovereign for private building work timbers, and wykabor for milled boards ;-)

Wykabor is made by wykamol.com(co.uk) But. Have a look at sovereigns Sovaq product. I think it is better. Alec, 5kg of wyk is about 60£. You don't have to be a business, it's just a ref point for them. Or just make one up, single order pay over phone by card

youre right, i do green back, mesh filter (dont think it's wire) with a pre-filter band around it.. I was thinking of adding the coarse grade sponge but cant see it doing much for the "fines".. that looks much better, nice snug-fit rubber washer over centre hole, clamped down tight....

i think one day soon, we're going to need a "ticket" just to get out of bed. This whiney British culture gets right on my tits. I'm sure retailers can advise people buying saws on the right saw; ie, looks small, but you dont wanna be using this for ground use, mr; and if some non "ticketed" gypo wants to go out and do a little 'lopping and topping' - let him have the right tools for the job.

before I go scouring the net for some mod that probably isn't sold in the UK... I think the air filter setup on the 880 is crap - esp when milling - why didn't they put on filters like on the smaller saws? so, I wanna mod my 880.. anyone got any smart ideas or product knowledge? ta in advance

this fella will clarify finishes for you, how to get satin to high gloss.... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zN-9vCSJWDQ]Rubbing Out a Finish - Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

Rob, John... takes at least a week for the temp to get up and the wood to start warming. Actually, it seems in the latter part that the defects have appeared - or perhaps it's just a slow progressive thing, which it seems to be because I look at it often as I have the means to via the setup. Extraction is not too harsh - it's timer on/off so I don't suck too much heat out. Ebac has been on 24hr, maybe that's causing RH to drop to quick. Never sucks more than 5L out a day. At the start, first weeks, maybe. Softwoods fine, big fat chestnut i left out for a year, fine.. But all that bendy "featured" oak, horrendous. Holm, so so; even the spiralling hornbeam wasn't too bad. the big stuff on the bottom of the stacks is alright i think, the smaller boards bit cuppy. I also cut a lot of stuff that has just been lying around in the yard for years. What I'm not cutting is fresh, green, perfectly straight no-tension, quarter sawn... so I can live with the results. All a learning curve, and as I'm not a commercial mill, I can be a little phlegmatic about the results. Might try and keep the RH up next time - which has been my 'gut feeling'

Jonathan, here's some spec from my kiln - a mix of hardwoods. Over 12 weeks (between 1.5 - 2") @ 31-33 degrees, big fan, ebac dehu, duct extractor.. humidity per week > 75, 72, 60, 48, 40, 36, 31, 31, 29, (same for next 4 weeks)... Results? despite meticulously cut & stacked Pants! warp, twist, bend, cup, split, shake..... Fortunately, a well stocked workshop to deal with such rubbish without cutting up those big boards. This year, im looking more into natural seasoning, maybe kilning for the last bit..

It is when you're working with s***e builders rob. Charity - Giving it away for the sake of it? No. I just wanted to get something into the raffle this year, but missed it. There is next year.

I do need to change that pig-noisy air filter. Luckily, I've great neighbours.

that's it, interesting grain, features in the wood that you can accentuate with a flapdisk/arbortech grinder.. I think the key to great furniture is something you love when it's finished, even if everyone else hates it !

build something that hasn't been built yet.. 90% of the time, I let the wood dictate

Look at the King Arthur Lancelot - Machine mart are now selling them. I find them more accurate than the 3 tooth arbortech - and of course, they rip wood out like no-ones business

I use em, arb and king Arthur versions. Depends what you want to do with them. Great for stock removal and I'm about to start a table carving with them. But for general shaping, even removing a good wedge of wood, I use 40/60 flap disks

Harv, about to start building mine. Oak ash American red oak, throw in a bit of really sexy hornbeam too. Pics are a month away. They will be lacquered with a water based PU - tuffest laq for work/bar tops

Yes, I was. But the builders who held me up 13 weeks on a FIVE week job prevented me being able to get it finished. All hate mail to Kingston Preservation :2gunsfiring_v1:

A real tuff-stuff water based PU lacquer. Dry and recoatable in 20 mins. Leave a tad longer for any denibbing. I put 5 coats on today. Will let it sit for 2 weeks then slap another 5 wet coats on, cure, rub out to gloss.