spudulike

It is possible it is the infamous accelerator pump issue, a known good carb will tell you one way or the other! If it is a carb issue, sometimes an ultrasonic clean can resolve it but other times it needs the pump to be blanked off or the whole carb replaced.

Like I said, Aspen may have had an effect and needed a retune, I could have just tweaked the L screw and thrown it back but the carb had a few years crud around it and resembled a horse turd so thought cleaning it may be a good option:thumbup: The carb looked clean inside, the fuel jets were clear and just tweaked the metering arm upwards, checked the needle valve and the trimmer fired up sweet as a nut and then just tweaked the H & L screw to get it to rev out OK. Will give it a longer go next weekend as it still needs a new choke lever and will see it it goes OK but reckon it will - nice and sharp now and no wobbly blades:thumbup:

Ah, thats the one, all is good......enjoy:thumbup:

Kick the bugger off, making the place look untidy!!

To be honest, I sorted out the cutters, had a BBQ, 3/4 bottle of vino, had a little snooze, stripped the carb, cleaned it, rebuilt it, reset the H&L screw and bingo, despite the vino, it worked and checked it cold a while ago and it starts fine. I can take a better look at it, the plug looked new? Don't know if it has been changed. I may look at the spark arrestor in the exhaust before I return it, that should tell a tale but from what I hear, Aspen should run cleaner than standard two stroke! Not easy to tell how it will run without giving it a thrash for an hour - Wolfmans was a bitch but may be down to the arrestor. It is ideling and revving out fine now, not like when it arrived - it is possible, if you have just gone over to aspen, the carb just needed a little adjustment but gave it a good looking at to make sure.

Thats good news, sounds like your fast idle mech for starting may need checking if you need to hold the saw on 1/2 throttle manually!

Interesting stuff, ticks a few boxes, JB Weld has been my fave gluing splodge but will have to try this out:thumbup:

Been busy, been rebuilding an old 020T, bit of a state, piston was scored, cleaned the bore and fitted a new piston, 155psi now and will go up with use:thumbup: Rebuilt the chain brake and did the pressure and vac tests, all OK, she now runs and idles, got to tach it up now but it is all there! Also had a HS81 hedge trimmer in, bogging down and also loose cutters so sorted out the loose cutters by tightening the bolts using a little thread lock, sharpened the blades and then stripped, cleaned and rebuilt the carb, revs out fine now:thumbup:

I'd have left the covers off the bulls horns, that would have the stupid muppets doing this - deserve everything they get - silly sods!

Sounds really sweet now, big wood for a tiddy saw but gets through it well and with a long bar - good work:thumbup:

All good, saved shagging the bar and chain, glad you got it fixed:thumbup:

Make sure the fuel is fresh and let it run for a bit before trying it again, it sounds like a number of issues. It may be worth undoing the L screw 1/4 turn and trying it again but this sort of problem may be an air leak leaning the mix down or could be a gummed up carb. The problem also could be the old accelerator pump issue - if you have a known good carb then try this out as it will prove what the problem is. The carb may need a good cleaning and rebuild but a new one would fix it at a cost.

On revving, you should see oil being pushed out of the oiler hole and running down the saw under the bar studs pretty much a few seconds after starting and running the saw.

Yeah, hedge trimmers are a prime example where the exhaust is nearer your face and the exhaust hangs in the hedge and comes back at you. Aspen also doesn't fill the workshop up with smoke when you first fire up a saw after fixing it:thumbup:

My advice is to use the double ended stihl plastic one, I have never liked the screw in ones. The rope trick has worked for me, you probably got a bit stuck in a port as it would be nigh on impossible to get 4mm rope down the side of a piston!

Our polite nickname for him is Norris after the guy on Corrie at the corner shop:lol:

Think Steve B is the Harry Potter of Arbtalk - weaving his magic around the site:lol:

:001_rolleyes: You turn the engine clockwise until the piston covers the exhaust port, get a piece of recoil rope and stuff it down the plug hole until you can get no more down there - long nose pliers help and you then turn the engine clockwise until the rope compresses and stops the engine turning over. It provides a good even pressure on the piston and works well on larger engines where the clutch is pretty locked on.

Mmmm, not the first time and won't be the last, if you have used one of those screw in metal piston stops, you are a bad man. They are meant for use with older saws where they push down vertically on the piston crown - I use a long sparkplug with the end ground off - larger contact area. If it is the plastic stop that you have sheared the end off then the saw will normally run OK, I use thes on most saws now but make sure the end is up against the inner wall of the cylinder above the exhaust port. Another good option is recoil rope but bring the cylinder up to above the exhaust port before putting it in. If the saw isn't starting then you may have cracked the crown of the piston, if fragments of metal have got in to the crankcase etc then it would make the engine difficult to turn over. It is possible that you have had some metal enter the transfer or inlet/exhaust port and it has scored or damaged the rings/piston. Personally I would pull off the top end and take a look at the inside, you may be able to inspect from removing th muffler and looking through the exhaust port or down the spark plug hole. A compression check will help - the saw below was at 120psi, healthy is 150!! Here is an image that will show you the damage stops can do -

I've had sprockets from the guys oop north plus a saw for refurb, always a good experience - spread the love fellas:thumbup:

One month is safe, you may get away with longer but personally use up old fuel in the lawnmower and mix fresh - it will be more critical in fast revving modern saws than slower older saws and will also have a more negative effect on saws that are set a bit lean. It is always best to mix enough for that days cutting or do it by the tank full if just doing a bit of personal home logging for the burner. I have seen carnage on many a saw due to old fuel:thumbdown:

Bloke behind me is complaining about my saws, think it would be better to use the mini cannon on him and carry on using the saws:lol: Mad.....seen it done with explosives on that James May Man Lab TV program!

Yes, options are mixing up your Fuel/oil in smaller volumes of say 1 litre or using Aspen, the retune is simple and may just be as easy as a tweak to the idle.

Looks like a decent size job, at least the weather has been kind even though you lost your saw again:001_rolleyes:

If you take the bar off and put a flat edge/rule against it, you will see if it is bent - unlikely unless it has been severely pinched in a felling cut or you have been using the bar as a lever etc.