spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I will pull the engine around while holding the handle, inspect for rips,cracks and breaking away from the steel mounts but do not change them unless faulty. I try to get a saw back in to decent working order and not get excessive with the spare parts - anything broken, damaged or faulty gets swapped out!
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Is that a bowl of curry Barrie - no rice or naan??
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Got a Stihl backpack blower on the bench, recoil spring busted, needs a damn good clean but the compression is good, as far as the spring let me test it. Got a Stihl hedge trimmer up next, will take a look at that and get an order in for parts. A siezed Jonnie 2171 is also on its way.....all go as usual!
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Who is that masked fella:thumbup: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYGe0WL24Y4]Jonsered 621 - YouTube[/ame]
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Rich - get the verniers on the piston and measure across it and also in line with the inlet and exhaust port. Also measure the thickness of the skirt - middle and outer bottom. Measure the top ring thickness middle and ends - that is the depth that goesa in to the ring groove! Must be something there! Possible that transfer damaged the rings or just wore them unevenly!
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Whohheeyy - all good news tonight - the knocking noise must have been your knees:lol: Glad it is running OK.....and your towels now smell of chainsaw fuel:001_rolleyes:
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Well done Rich, really glad you sorted it, you can get a good seal sometimes on a cold engine but as soon as it starts running, the piston gets warm, the fuel mix gets thin around the piston and pop, it starts to play up and then won't restart. Thanks for the praise, this is a good thread to bring the techies together and teach some of the less initiated on how to resolve issues - seen you get better at what you do since coming on here:thumbup: Meteor saves the day...again - told you they were good:thumbup1:
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From the album: Husqvarna 345
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From the album: Husqvarna 345
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From the album: Husqvarna 345
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From the album: Husqvarna 345
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From the album: Husqvarna 345
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Our prayers are for you:lol:
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The 357XPs respond very well to porting, the ports can be really opened up. If your saw has an "A" cylinder, you could fit a "B" piston, this can really up the compression as the piston will be slightly oversize and will work on a bore that has done a lot of work. Other than that, just fit the AB or B - often depends on what you can get hold of!
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God loves a trier:lol:
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Fingers crossed it won't end up on mine either - go to it Rich, legs arms and fingers crossed - you can rebuild it - Can he fix it....YES he can:blushing: Just ported, muffler modded and lowered the squish on an MS200t - 180psi - not too shabby:thumbup: Reckon it will be a bit of a weapon when done! Had an issue on pickup - bunged the carb in the new US cleaner and the welch plug fell out - wonder why it didn't run well:001_rolleyes: So Rich, mine is fixed and yours..........
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On the 357 - just measure the piston up - worth fitting a new Meteor on and seeing if that peps it up a bit - much cheaper than a new OEM P&C and it is generally the piston that wears.
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You have pretty much answered your own question, personally I would always stick with an OEM cylinder unless it is completely FUBARed! The 372 was never open port and closed port is by far the better of the two but many aftermarket Chinese parts are the cheaper open port - got caught like that with a 346XP - never did use the spare P&C as it was open port! I would reckon the 365 will pull harder in the cut than the aftermarket 372 - one of the problems with the aftermarket kit is that the pistons are a bit sloppy in the bore as they are not made to the same tolerances as the Mahle original.
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We shall see......keep us posted on the patients health:thumbup:
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It is an option but am hoping for a cheaper secondhand one otherwise I will have a go at setting the flywheel I got with it using a degree wheel - it is a right PITA - the original old model coil has been swapped out and isn't available any more so the ignition timing with the newer coil is miles out - Grrrr!
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Nope - different part number:thumbdown:, thanks anyway.
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The oil tank breather is to be found behind the stainless plate where the bar pushes on to - the one in my pic shows a blockage being pushed out - small round thing with a little turd of woodchip coming out! You can blow through it with a soft rubber tube, blast some cleaner through it or knock it in to the oil tank by driving it out and just soaking it or put it in a US bath. Richs tips are the laymans first shot at it, Gardenkits are the OMG, "it is still rubbish" option - the clutch does need to come off but the advice on worm drive pinion arms and oil pumps is spot on. Pumps can wear with age and on some, do lose pumping action.
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Any top tips....yes....sell it on ebay and buy a two stroke:lol: The four stroke Stihl engines are the spawn of satan! If you haven't worked on them before...good luck - I did once and wish I hadn't! Listen to Barrie - he knows a bit about these.....suspect (thats me being polite).....engines.
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Exorcism - It is the dark side Husky 61 taking over your workshop and casting evil spells on the Stihls - thats how it works Rich - Orange is good, just give in to it:lol:
