spudulike
-
Posts
14,775 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
What's it for Rich. Doesn't look like an MS200 that I thought you said it was for! Just got Mattys "Low Use" MS260 back together, make mental note......not to buy a used car off him:thumbup: the thing gad been seized and had a few scores but defied logic and makes 190psi compression! Sent the Jonnie 2171 out, just taching two MS200TS and porting a 372XP!
-
You are trying to convert the uninitiated Geoff, he nay change his views once he tries one of our ported saws at the next day out - got one of Mattys saws, must arrange it!
-
Did you catch anythig:lol: Guess we all like the feedback and the joint man hug when success is reached - let us know how you get on:thumbup: Goodluck
-
See if you can cut a deal on the saw and other items you may need - chains, oil, PPE etc - sometimes manufacturers have a strict price control policy with their dealers but that doesn't stop you getting a deal on free items. Have heard of a colleague who couldnt get a blower from a Stihl agent - must be worried about someone getting caught in the crosswind and having a bad hair day....you can't be too careful:001_rolleyes: Some of these controls, especially on spares is just pure agent protection - OK if your local agent is 100% fab but not so good if he is a male hen:blushing:
-
Guess the guy is out fly fishing:001_rolleyes::lol:
-
Yes, ex MOD and very little used, it is now mildly ported and goes well:thumbup:
-
As Rich says, they were known as Ranchers and believe they came in 51 and 61cc versions - they are OK saws, not going to set the world alight but will cut your firewood for 25 years:thumbup: Had one in a few months back - 28 years old and just needed new carb manifold and am sure it will be good for another 20 odd years firewood cutting:thumbup:
-
Try Stevenage Glass - Glazing Company, Glass Cutting, Emergency Glazing Stevenage | Stevenage Glass Company Ltd I see you are in Hertfordshire - I have had double glazed panels from them - just make sure the spec is as you need it and the dims are checked and re-checked if you get them to make the panel - prices are generally reasonable IMO.
-
Pretty strong saws, just don't spend too much money on it. If the cylinder andd piston are OK, you are on to a winner - chech the fuel line is OK, they tend to go a bit soft with age. Worth an hour or two of fiddling with:thumbup:
-
Here is my 181SE:thumbup:
-
Think that just about covers it - fingers crossed it is dirty points and not a dodgy coil! Double check the coil to flywheel gap - use a typical business card as a gauge between the coil and the flywheel - to large a gap will stop it sparking. Reducing this gap may help weak magnets in the flywheel but make sure the coil doesn't contact the flywheel.
-
Has anyone told the guy to knock the choke off as soon as it pops? Could it be the fast idle start mechanism isn't holding the throttle valve open enough to produce a fast idle and also a significant pop when it starts on choke - seen that before! You can bend the throttle lever e little and try it - it will let a little more fuel/air in and make starting more positive! Anyway, it is German, it can't happen because it has been designed in Germany by German experts and this has been looked at and our German engineering is the best and......it can't happen:001_rolleyes:.....it isn't our fault - operator error:001_huh: You jest.....sort of response we get with out lovely German colleagues:sneaky2:
-
Obvious Rich....it isn't manufactured in Sweden - thats the problem.......had to get you back on that one!!! I usually give it a damn good thrash through the biggest lumps of wood I have and then give it a bit of heavy noodling - that sorts out most issues - could be the owners method or just one of those faults that shows after a bit of use!
-
Busy day, got the troublesome Jonnie 2171 going with the Meteor kit now fitted - cleaned the ports and re-beveled to make sure, had to order a new carb boot as the 372 and 2171 are not quite the same and all is good, got 150psi compression without running and it sounds just fine - got to tach on a 20" bar and then ship it out. Also did a quick fix on a 346XP with a fuel leak - the breather had popped out and an MS200t that I had done earlier had ended up needing an accelerator pump mod - now done. Started on a 372XP that is being ported - cleaned it up and now need to get the dremmel and diamond burrs out:thumbup:
-
Mine was a much later 400 series so no joy there - possible it shares a few parts with Husqvarna, is there a number on it - like 503 XX XX-XX
-
That looks a tidy mower - someone must be interested - will do someone 25 years, well mine is around 30 years and still going strong:thumbup:
-
The jury is out on to why it seized, I am assuming that the owner knows about fuel mix and old fuel and will check the rest, as I always do, on rebuild. The carb settings were correct but will clean and check it out before firing up the engine after rebuild - so vac/pressure/comp check, check tank vent and tach tune and leave a tad rich to bed the new top end in. The piston is the worst one I have seen and it looks a bit overheated - many of the cylinders aren't machined on the base and there is no way you are going to get OEM tolerences by not machining - very poor IMO.
-
The running on could be: - 1) The throttle linkage being stiff (Unlikely) 2) Airleak from the crank seals - yours are classic symptoms 3) Airleak from Impulse line or Carb manifold - also very possible and more so if you are getting bogging in the mid range. 4) Other carb issues - and there are many on these saws:thumbdown: The most likely issue you have is that the crank seal on the clutch side is letting in air, there is also a possibility of one carb issue you may have that could cause it, especially if the idle speed keeps changing and it isn't the accelerator pump before someone jumps in:001_rolleyes: Check the colour of the spark plug, if the centre isnt coffee colour and the outer black then richen the H screw up - anti clockwise 1/4 turn before you fry your saw - this IS NOT the fix but will protect it a little in the short run. Loks like it needs a bit of work - one simple thing to do is try another known good carb and see if it cures the issues!
-
As per my previous post - run it hard BUT GIVE IT A BREAK especially on its first few tankfulls - you will build up a lot of heat if you run it through a 2' lump of wood in the first 5 mins of running. A few short cuts of 12" dia are the way to go but just take note of the initial auto tune setup!
-
I always try to salvage the cylinder and then fit a Meteor piston, I have done this on many occasions on many saws and have had very good success with this. Chinese pistons and cylinders are hit and miss - just had one that hasn't been machined on the top surface - terrible.... and it had seized. Pistons should contain a specific proportion of Silicon to ensure hardness and if the Chinese can't be bothered to machine a top surface, how bothered are they in other quality aspects of these cheap products. Anyway...whats wrong with the saw??
-
In theory, there will be some roughness in both the new rings and the honing on the cylinder, you really need to bed both components in together fast before they get too smooth or coated in glaze and running the saw at maximum revs will do this but in short bursts to begin with to avoid excessive heat build up through friction. Running saws at half speed isn't great as they are designed to be flat out (WOT) or on idle and slow running in may glaze the bore without the ring/piston bedding in properly. On dawgs/dogs....got them fitted on many saws but only ever use them on big cuts on bigger saws - on a saw this size, it should self feed through the timber without using them and they do afford some protection to the front of the saw/muffler.
-
The manual will tell you how to run it in but personally I run full throttle and max speed but for short cuts and avoid long extended cuts through big wood for 5 - 10 tanks. Avoid excessive heat build up!
-
Mmm - funny that:001_rolleyes:
-
You mix the oil to the OIL manufacturers specification, older saws used 25:1 as that is what the oil manufacturers of the day speced their oil at. If you use Stihl HP, you mix it at 50:1 for all machines as that is what the oil manufacturers recommend - even on older machines, more will just carbon the ports and exhaust up.
-
Yeah, thanks Rich, wonder where you got that one from:001_rolleyes: Been working on an HS85 hedge trimmer, took the muffler off and found the exhaust port was about 50% clogged up with carbon. Got the piston to cover the port and carefully cut out the carbon and blew it out with an air line. Also have a Jonsered 2171 that has had a cheap Chinese kit fitted and then seized, carb settings are fine so may be an airleak but will test later. One thing I have never seen before is that the piston out of the Jonnie has a rough cast top - how crap is that - they are always machined down to size but this one is something else - cheap, cheap cheap rubbish!
