spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It will be the clutch shoes rattling on the central boss, a new clutch will resolve the issue
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I have a premonition that the mods will mention arbtrader soon
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Nice seeing your HS81 being used in anger:thumbup:
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You could set it up as standard - one turn out on each of the carb screws and then get another to do the checks if anything isn't quite tight. Not the way I do things but may work out for you! I like to make sure that my repairs stay that way but I am kitted out do do so!
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Pressure,vac,compression checks, check the tank vent, strip and clean the carb and finally tach tune the machine. Normal checks I do on saws that have seized.
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Harsh way of cleaning it but would do the job. The OEM piston will work fine, just cost more. Make sure you know the reason why it failed before running it hard or do all the normal checks on reassembly.
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There you go, piston slap, 1mm is very excessive but love it when I am right:thumbup: Use a Meteor piston but check the diameter I believe that they are 44mm but the later ones are 44mm. Meteor are close to OEM and check the bore is smooth especially around the exhaust port and I would re-bevel the exhaust port. Your saw has probably mildly seized at some stage, worth investigating why!
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<p>Hi Hugh, there are a few thing that could cause this sort if issue, one is an air leak leaning the mix down. Generally you would get a poor idle, poor pickup and soaring high revs with an air leak.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>An overly lean L screw can mess up your mid range pickup and it is easy to try turning it 1/4 turn anti clockwise.</p>
<p>Air leaks can be caused by split inlet boot, holed impulse line or bad crank seals.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Lastly, the symptoms are close to those of a bad accelerator pump in the carb.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>If you get stuck, I can give you a price to sort it!</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
<p>Steve</p>
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I have found that these saws rattle at the best of times, main reason is piston slap at BTDC. It is basically the piston slapping the cylinder as the lower skirt has worn. One test is to get the piston at its lowest position and move the flywheel back and forth and see if it rattles or clanks. Other than that, see if the clutch shoes are loose in the central boss - you could run the saw up with no clutch on it to be sure.
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What shall we cover now Rich - perhaps we should start a "Found out something interesting today" thread:thumbup: Always good to learn a new fact or two...my bosses roof was constructed out of old ship timbers - very old oak frame and the timbers had obviously been used before - an expert reckoned Fench! Seems our Royal Navy in those days went round robbing anybody that sailed near them with something worth pinching.....sort of sounds about right...mugging our Euro friends:lol:
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Think a little known sailor and explorer called Drake may have sailed out of Plymouth to upset the Spanish and their Armada.....but what do I know:lol: Think he was thought as a bit of a Pirate by the Spanish....the rest is history:thumbup:
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Mmm - two places, same name, 80 miles apart:blushing: my dad used to work at the one I thought it was...Doh:001_rolleyes: Seen your map - it is full of orange dots!!!
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Big thanks to Rob at Infinitree, he has yet again offered to get me out of trouble on an eBay pickup - another cock up on where places are - once mistook Plymouth and Portsmouth.....well they are both on the south coast:lol:
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Nah, it is all easy, pretty simple in the main:001_rolleyes: Think if you read a few threads on here you may understand that it isn't all simple unless you are well aquainted with the principles of the two stroke and even then you can get some pretty weird things going on:lol: Generally, the more practical you are, the easier it gets:thumbup: Personally, I find working on saws bliss as you can get them on a bench and work on them with your back straight!
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Check the fuel line isn't holed and the fuel filter us still connected!
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TBH, I normally try a good carb but also like to pressure and vac check the saw and work from there, it is easy to compensate for a leaking crank seal with carb adjustment and end up with a badly running saw. I tend to do a full refurb as it gives the owner peace of mind and a long term fix rather than patching the issue for now - the last thing anyone wants isn a tempremental topper!
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Few things, catch it before it runs out of fuel, if you let it go all the way, you need to refil the carb with fuel and that will take a few pulls before it does that. If id does go all the way, try putting the choke on for no more than 3 pulls and then just go on fast idle. It could be the fast idle latch isn't working and that can cause starting issues but is obvious if the machine is started with this engaged and the engine doesn't rev up and the chain spin if the brake isn't engaged. It could be the L screw is set too rich, should be one turn out. Other than that, make sure the tank vent is good, the compression is still good when hot, the impulse line isn't kinked and the fuel lines and filter are good.
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Don't worry, you can get medication for this, I do know a good psychiatric Doctor
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Well done, at least you know what the problem is now:thumbup:
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Well Rich, you started the Tsunami of chainsaw data crashing down on your goodself:blushing: Hope you aren't running out on your master plan now:lol: Good luck with the hospital run, hope you aren't on call out with the RLNI - the winds have been a bit high over the last few days:thumbdown: No booze on a Friday night:thumbdown:Bummer
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JB weld won't hold rubber to steel, cyanoacrylate (Superglue) may but it doesn't always last!
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A number of options: - 1) retap to the next size up ie - M4 to M5 or M5 to M6 2) Helicoil the hole 3) Fit an insert - this will be limited to the land around the hole The helicoil is probably the best option - I usually add a little stud lock around the helicoil to ensure it really holds damn well:thumbup:
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I think you have been fiddling the figures - Wolfman runs a 346, 372, and 357....and a 338 for that matter and nothing over the Ely area:001_rolleyes: I think you have been losing the voters slips....... Its a flippin fiddle....bloomin Stihl owners:lol: I call for a recount:001_tt2:
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I reckon you have downsized our Husky stronghold of North Herts and Cambridgeshire, that Orange blob looks a little small:001_rolleyes: May have to buy some more Huskys:thumbup:
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<p>Hi Andy, Yes, looks pretty fast, Burrell tested his ported 357XP against MattyFs 560 and I have managed to get the 357XP as fast as the 560, My own one has had a pop up piston and a few other trick things done so reckon it will now out run a standard 560 comfortably.</p>
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<p>I do find the auto tune on these saws works well, I believe that the carb and ignition timing is being sampled all the time so as soon as the saw starts to bog, it retards the ignition and leans it so it pulls the revs back and then slaps the fuel back up and goes back to full advance - something you can't do on a standard 357 or other normal tune saws - it works really well and looks like the saw responds well to porting allbeit some pretty involved work as pop ups are not that easy to do...Burrell turned mine up with me overseeing.</p>
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<p>Should be able to do your 390 before long....I hope!</p>
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<p>Cheers</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Steve</p>
