spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Yup, as the previous post...188psi is damn good, 150 is typical on a used engine, 170 on a near new engine and 135 on a near clapped out engine of chainsaw type!
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My normal porting route is that I either have the owners saw for modding or purchase one secondhand and port to sell to a customer and generally steer clear of portig new saws due to it making the manufacturers warranty void. I guess it would be cheaper to get say a 372XP ported than to buy a similar conditon 85-90cc saw but the general benifit is having more power on tap on a lighter saw. From Burrells earlier thread - the 357XP in question came out at 25% faster than the standard saw and was on par with the later 560XP with autotune.
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Done a few 372XPs now, they fly on a 20" and will easily pull a 24"...think you may be going in a bit deep in to this - most just like a lighter saw that pulls like a far heavier one:thumbup1:
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Nice job, hope the owner didn't mind the wood chips and cookies all over his lawn!
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Not done one to date but would think that it would have plenty to give - the exhaust port looks as though there is plenty to do on it but would need to check dimensions etc.
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Both pretty much the same - 6-7 secs per cut, pretty happy with that, giving away 0.2HP and the autotune on the 357XP. Good vids Martin:thumbup:
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I think it is something you either understand and are in to or something you think pointless. I spent twenty years developing manufacturing processes to run faster, smoother, to be more accurate, more efficient and produce less waste. Nothing was left as standard, process speed rose 30-40%, set up times cut from 1-2 hours to 10 mins and scrap dropped from an awful 5% to under 0.5%. Having spent my youth on bikes and fiddling with cars, it seems pretty natural to take an efficient standard machine and make it go 25% faster.
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Port the blower...simples:thumbup:
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Nice toast rack or is it a cycle rack:lol: Standard around 8 secs, ported around 6 secs, 25% faster on the ported saw and on a longer bar:thumbup:
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Pretty difficult TBH, you sometimes get a grey, almost Nitrided looking effect with overheating over a longer period of time pointing at either a slight airleak or carb adjustment being a little out. If the piston/plug has more conventional colour but seizure is bad, it points to straight fuel/bad fuel. You are better relying on diagnostic checks to ensure crankcase and rubber part integrity and then a tach to get the carb tune correct IMO.
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Sounds like lack of compression. Worth trying to find out what scored the piston before fixing and running it incase it goes again.
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Will this master plan involve invading Belgium and marching in to France because it has been done before:blushing: Hate to tell you ....the Germans didn't win:001_tt2:
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Now theres an offer, I have always thought the exhaust port looked a bit small but not done the piston measurements to see what can be done but there should be a fair bit to get it going even harder. Think Jons suggestion of a MS660 on a 16" bar is only suitable for Russian power lifters with wood cutting tendencies:001_rolleyes:
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There are a number of things that may cause this, if you havent got an Ultrasonic Cleaner - get some carb cleaner, I use Rockwood as it melts most substances known to man, remove the H screw and blast it through in very large amounts - if all is well, you will see it coming out of the brass H speed circuit check valve inside the carb bore. It is worth doing the same to the L screw but it sounds more like the H speed is playing up. There are a few other issues that can manifest in these carbs that can cause issues. Sometimes the crank seals can look OK but if you rotate the crank round or put pressure on the end with your thumb, it can allow air to piss out/in!
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Never done much to a 254XP, I have had a couple, revs a bit like a 346XP but has more low down torque - damn good saws IMO. Be an interesting project to see what I can get out of one:thumbup: This saw must have made Husqvarna a fortune and deservedly so!
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Sorry for hijacking the thread:blushing: Must stop doing that:001_rolleyes:
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OK, looks like the cold night air has cleared the alcohol fueled bravado, we are now out of the car park, back in the bar, man hugs all round and getting last orders in. We have all written pretty much the same thing:thumbup: Good night all...love you all:thumbup1::lol:
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I find it varies from saw to saw - I would rather strip an MS200 than a 335XPT but a 346 or 254 is easier than a 026/MS260 but not that dissimilar and depends on how many you have done etc....lets look at the MS390....Oh.....lets not:blushing: that handle arrangement.....oh....makes me shudder:blushing: Build quality - also depends from saw to saw - each manufacturer has their high points - Husky - 254XP...one damn good saw....Stihl 066 - still a big hitter. Working for a German company for 30 years has jaded my opinion of anything that has hailed from Germany - just the way it is and nothing will change that...sorry. The Torx bolts are quite nice though:thumbup: But why T27 - such an odd size??? Anyway...what about Tanaka and Echo:001_rolleyes:
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With which bit Barrie or is it the three pints of cider talking:thumbup1: Think it is that time of night, too much alcohol, Monday off work and hot weather:001_rolleyes::lol:
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You are becoming predictable Rich, are you of German ancestory....Count Von Rich of Dover....not sure about that M8, doesn't sound quite right:lol: Ponder on this my friend, if Stihl are so great, why did they design a decomp valve that, if it fails, it falls straight on top of the piston........and Husqvarna - well they fitted theirs behind the wall of the cylinder with no damage if it fails:001_tt2: Not so great when you think about it! No one will win the Stihl/Husqvarna debate - it is like religion and politics...there is no correct answer just personal views!
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Each man to his own, I try to repair them and keep the repair cost effective but my time is exactly that but different for each repair shop. Don't worry, I wasn't keeping anything from you I haven't told you about already:001_tt2: Never had this problem with Husqvarna carbs:001_rolleyes::lol:
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Just the normal carb fix issues Rich - the OP PMed me and I obliged as normal. Last guy to ask me that question was Megatron:blushing: The outcome is he is going to fit a mates carb and if it resolves the issues, will purcahse and fit a new carb. Fixing these carbs is a war of attrition and I aint giving in:thumbup:
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All three MS200Ts now running, the last one was a bitch, couldn't lean the carb down to bring the revs down despite doing an accelerator pump fix and a damn good clean in the cleaner, a good blast of carb cleaner resolved the issue in the end:thumbup: Celebrated by cutting the grass and splitting some logs:lol:
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I have responded to your PM and have said what I think the issues may be. A 2010 saw is a later model and unless the saw is a high hours one, the issue probably is the carb. Try another one on your saw, it is a quick way of finding out what the issue is.
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let me think...Husqvarna or Stihl....Stihl or Husqvarna........Orange for Stihl:confused1: you colour blind Rich:lol: A rethink is in need here. Husqvarna........North Herts Shouldnt we just have a shoot out - one long length of timber and a big basket for the cookies:thumbup:
