spudulike

What is wrong with the current laptop? If it is just sluggish, stick the most RAM you can fit and stick in a new SSD in it if it hasn't got one yet. Doing this is relatively cheap and TBH, unless you are a top gamer or a professional Graphic designer, it will get you back where you need to be for relatively low £££! I have my old work laptop from, I would guess 9 years ago and it boots in seconds and does pretty much everything I need it to do!

File for a quick lick on the chain, a grinder for a buggered one that needs to be brought back to life.

I have used the Tiny Tech TT20k which is the 9v battery workshop model of the version above. It has been perfect over the 9 or so years I have owned it and it works well without wiring it up and never used the clamp that comes with it.

Blimey, what happened to the last 18,000years......just flew by

They go even better with a few engine tweaks!! Just saying

This is a very old school method of getting an engine going, the sort of thing that is written in stone or Dead Sea scrolls...handed down from father to son over the years and...it works as it helps, dry the plug and helps vapourize the fuel just where the plug needs it. Does it work....got home once and my neighbour had spent the last hour trying to get a hired Whacker plate going....I said.....What John said and went in for a cuppa, two minutes later....he was Whacking like a good un and it has worked for me on many saws over the years. It won't fix a fooked coil but it gives a semi or fully flooded engine the best chance.

Not being funny or knocking the enthusiasm but I trust you have disclosed that you are using your motorbike for work to your insurance company plus, having come off my bike many years ago at around 60mph (High Sided), it was painful enough just in jeans and leather jacket....If I had that much kit around me, I may not have survived as much of my path was on my back and found that trying to slow myself down only caused me to tumble over and over so just held arms in and took a slide on my back/arse until I stopped.

When you pull the saw over without using the decomp valve, does it have good compression? 7-9 years is a relatively long life by modern standards. It may be the breather or air filter...both are pretty common issues and hope ADW is correct on this. Try lifting the 562 and 560 together on the pull start and see which one falls to earth the fastest.

How old/condition is the machine and whats the compression like? Do you use the decomp as if compression is a bit low, using the decomp valve wont help. When you try to restart the saw, are you using full choke, nothing or putting the choke lever on JUST the fast idle setting? It may be the saw has other issues, a carb strip, clean and rebuild may help, I once had one in with perforated pump flaps which had been missed by the first few guys that had looked at the machine. The gauze strainer is a favourite troublemaker so worth checking. This model can wear the piston fairly quickly and low compression and poor starting are two of the symptoms.

Try L&S if you haven't already, they do stock and support Makita kit.

Yes, Amsoil is designed to work 100:1 and they used to run a pretty saucy Supercat at Oulton broad....V6 Mercury...very nice and was sponsored by Lowestoft football team..........

Lastly, in cases like this, I usually remove the clutch/drum and flywheel, remove the spark plug and try to turn the engine over with my fingers by turning the flywheel nut screwed on to the crank. Doing this proves that the issue is engine related and is not to do with screws stuck behind flywheels or clutch issues etc. Where the engine locks can also tell what is up with the saw....typically TDC if a piece of ring or circlip is stuck in the piston crown etc.

One of the guys said..."can you turn the engine over freely for one complete revolution once free". This is a very good question as it shows you if the saw has a problem at a specific point of the engines stroke. If the engine is able to turn over freely for a few revolutions then the problem, most likely, lays with the recoil cover. It is possible a circlip or ring has failed and the bits are loose in the engine causing it to lock up intermittently but spinning the engine over by hand in different positions will prove that.

I still am but it is time to change the priorities. I will still do a bit but as I said, it will be for a bit of wood for the burner rather than as a commercial enterprise.

Ok think the OP answered the question in his post...probably people with no knowledge trying to start the machine and flooding it. Fergusons start procedure is fine, if the saw is lacking a bit of compression, I wouldn't use the decomp although the 550 starter pulley can be a bit fragile. If you suspect the saw has flooded, take the plug out, turn the saw upside down, pull it over hard a few times and see if droplets of fuel come out. This will dry a flooded saw out and just use the fast idle...choke lever out and up then clicked down to start!

I am out of the game now and doing very little in the way of repairs, retirement beckons and will just do a bit in the future for firewood for the burner!

I find the harder woods, especially oak, burn better with a bit of softwood present. Some of you that have no problem burning just hardwood may have multifuel griddles that allow air to enter the fire from underneath, this really helps combustion. The OP probably has just a bed of ash and perhaps, mostly oak in his logs. Try splitting a few logs in to much smaller 1-2" slats, that will help get it going.

Sounds like a governor, if the engine revs get too high, the flywheel causes the flap to move which in turn shuts off the carb like a choke would and lowers the revs. Lawnmowers seem to do this a lot. I know bugger all about your mower but if it is like most, make sure the float bowl is clear of debris and water and make sure the main jet is clear of dirt.

If the engineer looked at the CST info, he may have well found the fault code or seen the issue on the tests. He may well have not done the tests at all....the read out is often of no use at all but you can sometimes get reasonable info out of it if you know where to look....it certainly isn't like a cars OBD2 connector!

Part of the CST test is a "Throttle Open" and "Throttle Closed", if ADW is correct, the test should register an issue on this part of the test. He does know a little about Husqvarnas

Best to give them a post code, an address, what three words, a map co-ordinate, all these things will help people find you. If you don't want people to find you, I find a silver foil hat like the one below will help! This isn't me by the way!!

It would be interesting to see the CST download the dealer got from the machine. Not seen one doing this sort of thing before and always difficult to diagnose without any background info as to how this running issue started i.e......after another issue, after a service, just started happening etc. The carb H&L settings from this download would be of interest from this download. I would normally go through a service and see if it still happens although it does seem a strange one. Things to check...the air filter is 100% clean...some wash in water and the scum blocks the open areas...get some solvent on it and clean the open areas with a compressor airline. Change the spark plug...do check the colour as it will give decent info...make sure it is a resistive plug of the correct type. Strip the carb checking the gauze strainer is clear and the metering diaphragm is good and not distorted...seen this on 540XPTs. Reassemble and try again. What did the dealer do? It may be a dodgy coil but I would usually use the CST info and normal diagnostics to find the issue. Does the saw have good compression and start cleanly from cold and hot?

Best get the breather cleaned or replaced as the saw will have a risk of under fuelling if there is a vacuum in the fuel tank and the potential to seize. It is a relatively simple thing to repair or clean and not sure why any repairer wouldn't do so.

It very much depends on the time you are traveling, morning or evening rush hour will be murder, after 9.30 until 3.30 will be fine. Fridays are generally lighter traffic but are murder after 2.30. I did that section of the M25 regularly and it is M25 and A3...just pick your times!!

Yup, clean your crack with brake cleaner...wipes are for wimps!