spudulike

Well I like that idea...nice one:thumbup: It will generate a bit more heat when running in but may be worth dialing it down to 13,500 whilst it is being run in. It may just be the quality of the new kit, time will tell. My ported one pulls 15,000 rpm and gets a tad hot:blushing:

Nah, think I am part of the institution now:thumbup: Being reasonable helps as well:lol:

Yeah, a sticky.........sticky what:confused1: needs a bit of WD40 IMO:lol:

Well thats saved one Christmas card:001_tt2:

Too bloody right:lol: a large percentage of kit I get in is the arbs doorstop that he eventually decides is better working that falling over:001_rolleyes: Anyway - for those who are always asking, I AM REBUILDING ONE OF MY MS200Ts Yup, it is on its way, the crank bearings have zero play and 155psi dry so am expecting it to be pretty good. It will have a full pressure/vac check, I will up the compression to make it have more grunt in the cut and will have all worn parts replaced so anyone interested - PM me.....sorry Mods - think I have earnt it:thumbup:

Thats your age Rich or what your mother said about playing with yourself is true:lol: Think we better put it down to old age:blushing: No worries - I have a selection of magnifying glasses in the workshop and am sure I am not the only one:001_rolleyes:

Generally when I get these saws in, I strongly recommend one of my FULL refurbs and part of this is a pressure/vac/compression check which will throw up even a slight leak in the seals. I would only do this on a full refurb and not a general service or fixing a specific issue unless that issue was holding on to revs on throttle release. A service entails a clean out with an airline, inspection, a run up and if the saw has been playing up, a carb inspect, clean and rebuild which 95% of the time will resolve the main issues. I rarely do this and have fixed specific faults before only to have the saw back in a week for a broken recoil cord and clutch spring.....typical, the fault I fixed was still fine! Personally I believe that toppers should be as close to 100% as is possible, no one wants a foul behaving MS200T up the top of a tree half way through the day after fatigue has set in - this is why I recommend the full rebuild on older faulty saws and do what I do in such detail. So - a full rebuild gets a pressure/vac check, bogging/bad idle and hanging on to revs gets the same, a minor service gets none of this!

That Rich worries me:001_rolleyes:

Right - back home now and from the IPL, I can see that part 1122 400 1203 is the correct part, the part 1122 400 1207 is the part for heaated handles and will have a circular magnet on the back of it. You are correct about the winding being for the heated handles. There are quite a number of coils listed: - 1122 400 1300 (must be used with 1122 400 1201/1206 flywheel) 1122 400 1303 - From Part number X 18 761 250 1122 400 1311 - From Part Number X 31 067 164 0000 400 1300 - From part Number X 31 067 164 The latter three part numbers are to be used with 1122 400 1203/1207 flywheels) I think your coil may be aftermarket and has no retardation on low revs at start up - this is what gives many old saws a real kick on starting as the engine fires on the upward stroke ripping the starter out of your hand - the ignition was set at around 19 degrees advance with no electronic retard! Try to get hold of the 0000 400 1300 ignition module and try that. One simple thing to try is to increase the distance of the coil to flywheel to say "double business card", check the saw still sparks and try that, it will have the same effect as retarding the ignition but may cause lack of spark issues!

My assumption was the issues with the crank/clutch had been sorted on the OPs saw. I believe that the early ones had issues with the cranks not bring machined correctly and this would knock the sprocket bearing out but using the spur sprocket sorted the issue. I don't believe it was caused by the saw being made too powerful for the drive gear. It is of course, worth taking in to consideration but in reality, once the power is on, the sprocket, clutch and crank are locked together so the needle bearing is under no or minimal load and is only spinning at idle speed. All good comment though

Nice one Ed, hope it goes well for you.

I might take you up on that one day:blushing: Think I am owed a brewery or two by a few:lol:

Typically a muffler mod will get the power up in the easiest manner with porting being the next step. These Strato saws usually have little to give on the inlet port but more on the exhaust port.

MO problems Rich, probably carb issues and will try to get them done for your return journey:thumbup:

I'm feeling a little light headed:blushing: Thanks Chaps:thumbup:

Sounds like good advice:thumbup:

I have the details of coil and flywheel pairing for this saw buy not with me, will advise once home on Friday. The coil having no marking makes me suspect it is an aftermarket one. This nay have fixed ignition timing and may be causing issues. The 064 has a fixed advance coil as standard making them a bit interesting to pull over. It may be better to fit the later one that has the variable advance.

As a matter of interest what part number do you have on the flywheels you are using? I haven't got the relevant info where I am at the moment but can look it up once home Friday onwards - the coil part number will also be needed.

I use a long reach socket that is slightly smaller than the seal diameter to push the deal in to place. A tap with a mallet helps if tight!

Nice question, I have a few pullers, mostly unconventional to the ones you show. I used a ball joint splitter on the last 254 I did, bit of a job but it worked. It may be worth: fabricating a puller or at least some extensions that will cope with bearings and bushes etc.

Sounds like the saw has issues with spark, fuel or compression. 064s do have quite a kick, down to having no retard on the ignition coil. Sounds like the saw needs a good going over to make sure the carb is operating correctly, the coil to flywheel gap is correct and the compression is OK., it may be the flywheel key but is difficult to get wrong. The kick you are feeling is the ignition firing early on advance to TDC and is normal, what isn't normal is the saw not starting.

Not sure I do either:lol:

The MS200 has lots of end float on the crank due to the type of crank shaft bearings. The rollers actually rotate on the crank itself, a little like needle bearings so nothing to stop the float on the crank. Larger saws use ball races where the outer race is held by the crankcase and the inner is pushed on to the crank shaft so there will be close to zero end float on this type of design. If you have float, the bearings are worn!

Why, what is it, a bow saw:lol:

There shouldn't be any end float on the crank as the bearings are a tight fit on the crank. Worth looking at the seals and worth seeing if leaning the L screw a little may help!