spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Just before five, not too bad! Good to meet you as well, hope the saw gives good service now:thumbup:
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It goes unscrew, done this many times, latest one this weekend!
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If it takes much longer, Two minutes to midnight by Iron Maiden may be a suitable choice:thumbup:
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Great idea, let me know how you get on:001_rolleyes: Just squirt a bit of oil around it if you have the side cover off - most survive well with little maintenance unlike the MS261:001_rolleyes:
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Yes
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Drown out the bad language with a bit of Zeppelin, that will do it:thumbup:
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I know, I meant using the gun on the clutch whilst holding the piston in place with a screw in stop:blushing: Ouch:thumbdown:
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It is usually case of using a flat screwdriver and easing it back in to its slot - I usually wear safety specs and swear alot when doing it:001_rolleyes:
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Listen to Rich and Alec, I have had a couple of saws with fractured piston crowns when someone has used a screw in type on an engine with a plug hole that isn't at the very top of the combustion chamber. The Stihl one us generally very good and rope with saws with clutches on very tightly but make sure the piston is covering the exhaust port when you insert it otherwise you may get issues:thumbdown: A typical pneumatic impact gun on a screw in metal stop is brutal IMO and a good way to fracture the piston crown - you aren't working on a lorry
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One thing on cirrclips - I always fit them with the open end to the top of the piston - something I have always done and have noticed this is how OEM pistons have their one fitted circlip inserted. I am guessing it just makes the fitting stronger in respect to the enormous up and down forces in an engine!
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I know exactly what you mean, the Stihl ones take 5-10 mins now and that includes a little fix to make sure the inner cover fits the outer cover VERY snugly to stop the brake handle flopping around - anyone who has had me refurb their saw can check this:thumbup: Cleaning the thing out gives it back the nice crisp crack as it works as it should:thumbup:
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Technically you are trying to make the most of the honing roughness to take the piston and ring down to match the bore before it glazes up and has little friction. You should avoid long cuts from the off but do use it for shorter stints flat out as normal. Milling is pretty full on so would do a bit of ringing up for the first few tanks before going at a cut that will take minutes to complete - unless you can rest the saw and let it cool in the milling cut before milling the next few feet. The bore will be rough to start with and it is this that will aid your running in but it will also generate heat that you need to dissipate to begin with!
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A little grease on the pivot points will suffice:thumbup:
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Same here,usually get a magnifying glass and torch out to make sure it is 100%. Takes a minute and saves £££££s:thumbup:
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Common parts that break if the mechanism isn't kept clean
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Yup, the squish is tight on those saws - not much you can take off!
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No need to take it personally Barrie - just clarifying and you were correct on most other saws with what you said:thumbup: Didnt mean to take the piss:blushing:
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Try this: - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=ms200t%20ipl&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fbricomeca.free.fr%2FStihl%2Fstihl%2520MS200T%2520IPL.pdf&ei=2tA1U-7LM6jt0gXRrIC4BQ&usg=AFQjCNEjt0p5_mbVYhn6qeV4c-b-9QNLOw&sig2=b9LCp5YmnZKrYRyVxzsYbw&bvm=bv.63808443,d.d2k Let me know if you get stuck and I will help out - easy enough job:thumbup:
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Luv you too Rich, man hug:blushing:
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Mmmm, that looks an interesting site Rich:001_rolleyes: I wonder where that one came from:001_tt2:
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This is the MS200T crank bearing, note the strange cylindrical rollers and lack of inner race - the rollers contact the crankshaft so if a bearing fails, it can knock the crank shaft out!
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Too late, you are on Youtube already:lol:
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Yup, that M25 journey would be a killer each day. I think that the yoooofff of today need an app to do anything and not found one to fix a typical mower, strimmer or saw yet! Good luck with the quest:thumbup:
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Typically Barrie, you are spot on but the MS200 uses a crank bearing that has no inner ball race and is like a roller bearing with cylindrical rollers in just an outer race. The bearing went completely tits up and ground a slot out of the crankshaft that looked like original machining to me but obvious once assembled with new bearings or when compared to a good shaft! I should have asked our Fountain of all knowledge - AKA Rich but he was contemplating his navel fluff whilst sitting on the bog - so his other half said:lol: I just made that bit up:blushing:
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Been working on an MS200T that the crank bearings had let loose on, measured up the crank and all seemed fine.....wrong:thumbdown: What I had thought was a machined relief around the base of one of the shafts was in fact where the bearing rollers had perfectly ground a groove in the shaft as pointed out by the yellow arrow. Fortunately I have a couple of spares so will use the best of the two!
