spudulike

Sounds like an air leak, especially on an older saw. Check the inlet manifold, impulse if separate, cylinder bolts, carb bolts and crank seals.

There is month real info available, larger saws tend to make a little less than smaller ones, I personally fit a new piston to restore compression as the bore wears very little and the piston generally wears more! 150psi is OK, 170psi is better, under 145 and you probably have issues!

Probably not but if you mix it with carbon and sulphur - don't smoke near it:lol:

The gunpowder thing and tanning leather are all to do with the nitrate in the pee. In medieval times, they used to scrape the white potassium nitrate from ye olde shyte heap to make gunpowder with and it is the same nitrate that is used by tanners to soften leather!

Well, if you have a handshake from me, you know about it:thumbup:

Never had to buy a new one but you usually place the outside part in the outer rim and then just wind it round pushing it in place holding it on two opposite sides - that is how I fit them also!

On par with the 550 but it won't out pace the 560 - you need a ported 357 to do that......as we have proved:thumbup:

Hi Ed - you and your saws:001_rolleyes: could be a few things - if the compression is a tad low, it can cause starting issues when hot -you can get saws having reasonable power not having decent compression when hot. Other than that - you could try swapping the carb out and trying that! I know you have spares. When you do start the saw on fast idle- does it rev pretty fast on this setting or a bit slow - if slow, lean down the L screw 1/4 turn, adjust the idle to suit and see how that goes -it may be wear in the throttle linkages also giving poor fast idle - the other thing to do is hold it on full throttle and pull the starter with your left hand - if it doesn't start like that than you have other issues. I have had pin holes in the carb pumping diaphragm give exactly this issue and the flaps can get worn/holed as we know! Air leak - possible but would generally give idle/fast speed and holding revs issues! You may have a blocked tank vent - try cleaning it or swapping it out - the tank may get a slight vacuum in it drawing the fuel back out of the carb. It may just be the carb l screw set too lean- one turn is standard setting! Not sure it can be much else!

It will be around 13600 RPM as that is what the blue coil is limited to (I think that is what you have) but you will never hold that in the cut so it will not effect cut speed. The unlimited coil makes tach tuning easier but doesn't make the saw faster or more powerful!

You will like it once done - that is certain:thumbup:

Sorry Josh, missed your post - yup, that it is, hope it meets your approval:thumbup: It spools up pretty quick now and has a decent amount of speed in the cut and that was with a 17" bar in hard Elm!

I have had this with saws with heated handles - no issue but it may be a seize or faulty crank bearings - more common with stone cutters!

Been round a while myself, no spring chicken that's for sure:blushing:

Sorry Andy:blushing:

I couldn't possibly say...although he did ask if I did senior citizen concessions when I did his 390XP:lol: Sorry Andy:blushing:

Sounds like it is running lean and may have a bad air leak. Check the impulse line and the inlet manifold - one may be split. Other than that - crank seals. Be aware that trying to run a saw like this may well seize it - if it hasn't already - take the muffler off and check the piston through the exhaust port.

Sorry Rich, got too much on here as well:001_rolleyes: 353XP on the bench, very boggy, no high revs. Traced it back to a fuel pipe tear where it enters the fuel tank - repalced it along with a missing breather pipe and all good!

This sounds like the one I rebuilt with MattyF, his cylinder bolts loosened up causing the oil tank gasket to be sucked inwards causing a massive leak. Worth checking this out - I had to helicoil all the crankcase bolt holes in the end!

Thats about right Wes - Stubbys one shook my fillings out:lol: and had a complaint from a fella down the road:001_rolleyes:

Now that story is as good as mine about a fellow villager asking me to sharpen his chain - I looked at it and said "what should I sharpen, there are no cutters left on it" he just looked a little hurt:001_rolleyes: I love the general public:lol:

Nope - both bottom ends are different meaning exhausts and carbs/manifolds/covers won't fit even if you managed to machine the cylinder to get it to fit your saw If this is your big idea - time to sell the saw and purchase a MS460!

The stroke of the 036 is 34mm and the 044/046 is 36mm, the bottom end is completely different. From what I have seen but not investigated, the 038 shares the same stroke - if the bottom end is the same, you may be in luck but you would need to do a bit more work before buying something that is impossible to fit!

Put it in a box and send it back to China:lol: I would be looking at the metering arm and raising it a little - other than that, holed fuel line, blocked fuel filter, crap in the gauze filter in the carb are all usual culprits!

Try pulling the saw over up to ten times with the choke on, see if the plug is still dry, if it is then it is probably a blockage in the carb, the gauze filter is possibly full of wood chip or the metering arm may be a little low.

Best done outside eh Barrie:blushing: