spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Sounds a bit like the metering arm is too high or the needle is leaking under pressure and the fuel is gathering in the lower crankcase causing it to flood and cause over compression. Easy to tell, leave it overnight, take the plug out, take out the plug, turn the saw upside down and pull over the saw with the ignition off. If fuel drips out, check the carb out!
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I guess Eddy is working for another and to do as we do is probably an unchargeable extra but I do a good all round inspection when doing any overhaul/porting as much of my work is via courier and I hate the thought that a £2 recoil rope would mess up a rebuilt seized saw and cause the owner hassle for the sake of a ten minute job. Not getting at you Eddie but just don't want the guys I gave done work for thinking i have done the job in 15 mins or even an hour - wish I could work that fast - the strip down is easy, the inspection, clean, test and final setup are the time consuming parts of what I do! A seized cylinder can take 20 mins to an hour for the acid to do its work! I guess we all have our own ways and do our own thing and have our own expectations from the work we do - I take a returned saw very personally
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So if a saw comes in, complete and seized, how long to clean the bore, fit a new piston, do the inspection and checks to ensure all is OK and do the final run up and tach? TBH, I generally give it 6 hrs but do give the saw a good clean up! I am a bit fastidious in my work but aim for perfection:blushing:
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Not being funny but it takes me a lot longer than that as I pressure/ vac check the saw, do a compression check, check the squish, clean the carb,check the lines and breathers and the final run up and tach takes over 15 mins - I have never had a repaired seized saw fail again. I need to ensure any reason for failure is found and repaired. Just saying this as 15 mins means around £7-15 labour for the job - think I had better start subbing my work out to you Eddy:lol:
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We were in Topsham this morning so took the back lanes in.....and out and Rich......not on a sunny day, only when it is cold, nice to see you back, been quiet, hope all is well with you!
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And it was a pleasure to meet you as well, a nice business you run down near Exeter plus the weather is being kind to us:thumbup:
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The chain break issue will be the clutch needle bearing. The lack of pickup, try turning the L screw 1/4 turn out and adjust the idle to correct the lower idle it will create.
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A guy in the States did a test on a 026 before and after porting and it ran cooler after porting. No bad thing IMO!
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I serviced two recently with exactly the same fault. The needle bearing fails and the excessive play does the damage.
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Not heard of any re-mapping on chainsaws, that is probably damn difficult to do! Not done any 660/066 bids yet Jon, got my own one coming along but too busy to finish at the moment
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Not yet Jon, may well do one this year!
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Had a 560 in bits but no tuning. They are quite different in design than most!
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Not yet, I am sure one will be along soon!
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Glad you got it sorted and pleased to help:thumbup:
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Thats broken, just pray for no kickback:001_rolleyes:
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I have used Liberon finishing oil on both Antique Oak and a beech block work surface. It is a wiping oil that dries and goes hard. The first coat seals and subsequent coats seal some more and will eventually after 5 or more, give a high gloss finish if required. I have found it easy to use and dries within a few hours and goes hard overnight. I used it on a Oak Longcase clock and it really worked well giving a semi gloss sheen and bringing out the grain well. You also use a lot less than you may imagine so the litre I purchased will last for years! Hope this helps:thumbup:
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Let me know how you get on and whatyou think:thumbup:
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The short spade goes on the male connector on the top of the switch assembly whilst the lower one slides in to a cut-out in the side of the red switch (recoil side) where the earthed spring will touch the top of it when the stop switch is on! The wire part of the connector runs down the side of the switch! Not got a pic:thumbdown:
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Looked at the pics again, the circlip damage looks to appear on both sides which is weird to say the least. The damage is below the exhaust port roof so if you can smooth this, sort any aluminium transfer and slightly hone the bore, with a new piston, you may strike lucky. The damage on the transfers needs to be smooth to stop damage to the ring and the bore needs to be clean but as long as it makes compression, the lower damage will have little effect. You will need a new piston! Other than that - fit a new P&C or good second hand one!
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A circlip has come out at some stage and scored the transfer side, doesn't look too hot to me:thumbdown:
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Part No 1110 353 1600 Just fit a new sealing valve - it looks like a red rubber mushroom! remove the fibre breather abd pull it up from inside to out with some tweezers or pliers:thumbup: On the blue smoke - possibly too much oil in the fuel, possibly running too rich on the H or L screw depending at what revs it is happening.
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And for the record, Stubby is a decent and fair bloke as well and not one to stir the pot - once picked up a long reach for me and wraped the thing so I could courier it back to here - looked like a giant lollipop:blushing: Looks like it has been sorted, the handbags can be put down and we can all go back to our pints.
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Glad it turned out ok in the end Andy:thumbup:
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A decent offer - I would hope the OP would see this thread and understand that he got a good deal from a decent bloke and the next bit is to send the money and an apology! I have fortunately done a fair bit of business through Arbtalk and the vast majority of members out there are decent fellas but all it takes is one. A 346 for £50 - he would have got £150 on ebay for it - pay Stubby and now!!!
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I hope you haven't been done over Andy, for those that don't know Stubby, he is a gent and has helped me sort out a few ebay purchases in the past. Hope the OP pays up soon - a month seems excesive to me:001_rolleyes:
