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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Done yours for starters and got a 357XP to do:thumbup:
  2. I did one of these once and there was a spark arrestor in the muffler - if you clean this it may well sort your issues!
  3. Holed pump diaphragm, leaking needle valve, incorrectly adjusted metering arm, incorrect diaphragm fitted, leaking/ missing welch plug, choke stuck on:confused1:
  4. Here we go again:001_rolleyes: if the choke isn't sealling well, the saw will have issues drawing enough fuel in to the engine so this mechanism has to be right. Other issues that can be fuel related are: - Blocked fuel filter, holed fuel line, holed/split impulse line, poor connection from carb to impulse line (seen that before on non OEM lines), holed pump diaphragm(common on the flaps and around the central hole - use a bright light behind it), incorrecct order of carb gaskets, blocked gauze strainer, holed diaphragm, metering arm not set correctly - this arm is set level to the BASE of the bowl of the carb not the sealing faces, poor compression, incorrectly adjusted carb H&L screws, faulty check valve, incorrecct diaphragm fitted - the central stud is longer than the MS200 one, blocked fuel tank breather. Thats about it:001_rolleyes:
  5. It gives a lot more potential but would make sure you ask your supplier about it before going mad - you can use the link for guidance!
  6. Found what I was looking for Wes - try this http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/33857-whats-your-bench-today-99.html#post700208 Should be helpful but do make sure that you check the meteor is still the same if you buy one, the 066 one I purchased was the same as the OEM part:blushing:
  7. 33.9mm inlet 33.7 exhaust - the skirt has a scalloped edge and isn't straight - I believe the Meteor one has straight edges and is a lot wider!
  8. I think I have one - you need the width across the skirt - the "chord" length I guess??
  9. I was caretaking the 070 - arranged shipment to mine for A N Other! It was the cup that was loose - I think the ignition timing isn't controlled by the flywheel as it is on the contact breaker anyway - the flywheel apears just to have magnets on its inside to generate the voltage to spark but not time the spark......I think:confused1: The exhaust doesn't look right but the clip on it fits the top cover perfectly - Oh well, it runs, the starter works now......don't oil the pawls - thats my advice on that one!
  10. I put all mine through Spuds workshop, I gather he fixes most of the ones he lays his hands on:lol: Accelerator pump, check valve, welsh plug are common issues - a quality US cleaner will solve many but not all! It may be accelerator pump, welsh plugs mess up the idle and check valves the high speed running!
  11. I did one fir a milling Doctor on this site, there are things you can do. On the one I did, it had very uneven uppers so I leveled and reduced blowdown time. The ports can't be widened touch due to the width of the piston skirts so take the previous comments with a pinch of salt...sorry Eddie:blushing: I think from memory, that the base gasket can come out but measure it!
  12. Been there with the MS441, damn easy to widen ports without thinking about what will happen to the ring ends - hope treewizard is taking note of the advice! BTW - I hate having ring ends in this sort of position!
  13. Oregon Prolite or Sugihara for heavy use or a Microlite Pro for light work and greater speed! Others will have their opinions:001_rolleyes::lol:
  14. No idea - just put it on there to run it up - I dont think it would stop it even if you put full weight on it:lol: 20" before anyone asks!
  15. Not done one before, if you are new to porting, watch the piston skirt size and port accordingly plus watch the ring ends - easy to get carried away or make non reversible errors.
  16. They both are - especially when you forget to connect the fuel line to the 3120XP and drop start it 20 times:001_rolleyes: burke:lol: Abbey say your seal will be with me today:001_rolleyes: hope it will hit tomorrow:lol:
  17. Here we go, a bit of saw porn for Eddie:001_rolleyes: I did tach the saw today - then found the recoil had jammed and a quick inspection showed the flywheel had come loose and was rubbing on the starter pulley:001_rolleyes: I held off the auto vane rev limiter - boy that sounds flash for a flappy thing that closes the choke if it goes a bit fast:lol: Anyway - held it off and adjusted the carb for 7500rpm and then set the autovane to kick in around the same - don't think I am too far off the mark in doing this.......am I Eddie????? First one I have done....ever! Last pic is a comparison to the 3120XP - now singing again:thumbup: Pics: -
  18. 13,000rpm on that one - that is maximum so aim for circa 12500 on the chosen bar length - the L screw is left a bit lean as the carb can blow fuel back on to the filter if too rich.
  19. Soft rubber sheet with two holes in it to accept the bolts - similar to you but better!
  20. That's the one, held it open with my thumb, tached it at 7000rpm before it stalled and then the recoil stopped recoiling - bloody old saws! They are really a labour of love for the owner - there is just so much labour intensive stuff that can go wrong and isn't easy to fix! Everything takes sooooo long to repair:sneaky2: The 3120XP was sweet - a little bugger to get going but now all is good - will try it again cold but probably needs a few hours on it to settle the piston!
  21. I am setting it to around 7000, it has a limiter that works off the air from the flywheel. weird thing but it works! Pics to follow
  22. TBH, I have always used Stihl HP at 45:1 - my own choice and never had any issues but it has to be said, I don't do pro cutting - most is hauling firewood out of local ditches:thumbup: Any decent Stihl/Husqvarna etc oil will be fine, just make sure the mix is fresh and mixed right!
  23. Well the 3120XP is up and running, it has been a bugger, having plugged the leaking hole in the crank for oiling the needle bearing - it has a hole running through to the crankcase with a one way valve that had gone...I found the seal on the clutch side was shot. I replaced this seal and then found it was perfect on pressure but leaking on vacuum...at around 11.00pm last night:001_rolleyes: Grrrrrr Managed to get the flywheel off and verify the other seal was leaking - got it replaced today and then had to wind in the carb idle screw three turns where the owner had been compensating for the air leaks - it had a slight seize so fitted a new piston and all seems good - opened up the slots in the muffler and it roars now:thumbup: Stihl Contra now fitted with a new carb kit - will tach tomorrow:thumbup:
  24. Well I guess if the customer had been visibly disabled or showing signs that he was physically infirm, the OP wouldn't have posted this. In answer of whom to go after....both of them having worked every week since 1982 and paying half my wages over as deductions and tax!!!!
  25. I didn't see your post but spoke to Barrie a while ago and he filled me in - hope it is something that you can fight and come out the other side! Not good feeling like crap

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