spudulike

You have two 024 cranks - 1121 030 0400 and 1121 030 0405, I believe the earlier one has a shorter stroke and the later is also used on the 026 but do your homework and save wasting money. There also apear to be four incarnations of cylinder! Burrell on here, turned down the later 024 cylinder to fit the earlier crank - don't think it was ever "right" though.

Think you cleared their stock, got the Stihl ones myself - good for hauling timber out of ditches for my firewood - the tongs get a real good grip on the wood!

Benedmonds on here had a buggered 084 some time ago, not sure if he ever got rid of it! He is based in North Midlands

Sounds about right to me, the crank needs the same stroke otherwise the piston will either clout the top of the cylinder or not make compression!

Did someone wake me up:001_rolleyes: The 026 first - they do suffer from wear on the piston skirt and they start knocking on idle and can eventually get this free porting around the piston skirt. Personally I would do a compression check and see how it sounds running and go from there - the carbs can be.....interesting to set up:001_rolleyes:, I have had this phenomena on an 024 which would saturate the air filter in fuel, choking the engine - I overcame it by leaning down the L screw to around 3/4 turn rather than the 1 turn out. I found this by running the saw up and removing the air filter and doing a couple of test cuts - the saw went from bogging to having good full power. The idle may just be the carb setting - set the L screw to 3/4 - 1 turn out and see if turning in the idle a little helps. If you can't do a compression check - try removing the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port, the piston should look clean and wet silver grey - deep vertical scoring and it is shot. The 024 - it sounds like you have enough fuel for idle but not for full power - check the fuel line is OK - plug one end and suck on the other - small holes will do this. The impulse line (small rubber hose from the airbox to the back of the cylinder base) may be split, check the fuel filter and also the internal gauze strainer in the pumping section of the carb - a common fault on most saws! I am assuming that the carb settings on the 024 are around 1 turn out on the H & L screw! The carb may need a good deep clean but try this for now!

Had a quick look and can't find a Meteor one - the Golf ones are reasonable ones also but use the OEM circlips if you fit one. Personally, if you have 150psi + leave it as it is:thumbup:

If the cylinder plating is OK, just fit a new Meteor piston, they are of good quality and have done many saws with them without issue. It will restore the power, compression and stop any piston slap that these 026/024s can have after many hours use! If the plating on the cylinder bore is worn then it just depends on what sort of money you want to spend!

Sounds like the bar sprocket has been pinched at sometime - had a similar one once on an 024 - swapped it out in the end! Just under a tank of oil per fuel fuel tank is normal - it the sprocket tip flings a line of oil at speed free running, all is as it should be!

Nah - like a big ole elephant:lol: Had a similar one to yours I purchased- expired during carving, mostly happens when newbies turn the retaining screw without locating the cover properly:thumbdown:

Been there before havent we Barrie - would have been my first call as well!

The muffler mod is basically a big hole in the flat plate that sticks out of the clutch cover. I fo a fair bit more than that bit no need to open the two muffler halves up. Make sure you bevel those port edges as the rings will need it!

The rings are visible through the inlet port - if you widen the port by more than around 1mm, the ring ends will be too close to the port opening or will actually pop out in to the port. Either way, it is not a good idea to have ring ends that close to an open port - 2mm is absolute minimum to avoid issues - believe me - I have done the work and know the build. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing with this type of work - I don't profess to know it all but do know the limits to work within and some saws in detail! If the owner had opened the inlet port - he would now be looking at an ash tray:thumbdown: Not having a pop but giving a free lesson and experience!

Sorry Eddy, the ring ends run down either side of the top of the inlet port, if you widen them, they will snag and take out the rings - there isnt much you can do here, possibly a little shapeing but not worth it IMO. You can take around 1-2mm off both sides of the exhaust port but measure the skirt to get the correct width leaving 2mm of skirt down both sides of the port. Most of the gains will be from the piston and exhaust plus dropping the base gasket!

Sounds like a half decent engineer could turn down a steel rod and tap it to make what you want - just need to make sure the thread pitch is correct - that is the bit on the end of the thread type i.e. M5 x 0.8 means each thread is 0.8mm apart and 5mm in diameter! If the part is more complex...I will shut up:blushing:

The insurance we are all talking about, is it Public Liability, Employee Liability or Personal Injury - just trying to clarify as I am not involved with running an Arb company! My experience in H&S is from 20 years in engineering and manufacture rather than the Arb industry. With employees there is really little excuse at putting their health at risk so any modified saws or saws in poor repair supplied to workers would be frowned upon. I port saws on the request of the owner and have the decency to question if the saw is for their own use and therefore, their own liability if anything goes wrong. I do check, clean, repair and test the chain brake and ensure the chain catcher and throttle lock work on all saws I get in and personally feel that failure in this area would have more impact on the operators health than a percentage improvement in the saw and how it runs. I know a few guys have standard saws for their employees and keep the modded saws for their own use - it makes sense! Whilst the guys on here want ported saws, I will mod them but will also point out - DON'T HAND THEM OUT TO EMPLOYEES TO DO THEIR JOB ......be safe and sensible!

I can't believe that anyone has or needs to "remap" the onboard computer. By remapping, we are meaning advance and retard on ignition and amounts of fuel air at different revs and in different circumstances - load, no load, bogging etc The parameters are infinite and to start adjusting this area would be a can of worms! I believe the software just downloads how the machine has been running and can set the carb back to default setting - a bit like your dealer can do on your car....well, some of them!

Not too bad but am expecting it all to kick off again soon - was it just a simple muffler mod you wanted? If so, send the saw in and I will get it done PDQ! Glad the 346XP is going well:thumbup:

Thats the issue with aftermarket, if the piston to bore fit isn't good to start with, it will cause these sort of issues. I just rebuilt an MS200 which had an aftermarket kit on it, good compression when here but has gone wobbly now a couple of weeks later even with the work I did to it - back to the drawing board:001_rolleyes:

Like I said, I remind owners of their H&S liabillity toward employees when people ask to have their saws modded. It isn't a cop out but more a reminder that if they employ people and supply their saws, then handing them a non standard saw isn't the smartest thing to do. I could argue that I have seen soooo many MS200Ts without chain catchers and other saws with bust brake handles and throttle locks that H&S would also have a dim view of but anyone considering having their saw modified should take an overview of who will be using the saw and their intended use for the saw!

Better get that 357XP you had in down to Eddie - I take it took more than 15 mins to get going:lol: What was it in the end - I was tempted to start on it! I am guessing that 60 min MS200 pressure check was leaving the fuel tank in place? I usually do it when reassembling the saw again - perhaps we should have another timbersport challenge on saw maintenance!

I think I would have been loading them in to the back of the wagon to be sold on ebay:thumbup:

The advantages of porting are increased cut speed and faster pickup .....plus the saw can be a joy to use and do the same work of a larger saw so less body fatigue. On the down side, you have the noise, petrol consumption and possible deterioation of saws life but not seen this to date! On the H&S side, I port saws for owner operators and would not expect any of the saws I have modded to be handed to paid employees for their use to do their job - that wouldn't be sensible!

The typical fix is to use the sock type pre filter part no 000 141 0300 - it is an elasticated material band that fits around the existing filter.

Thanks for that Guess you have the benefit of being able to have the saw back easily if things aren't right, some of my customers are up to 300 miles away and it isn't easy for me to put an hour plus, on the machine - there is a limit to the amount of firewood I can burn:lol:

Think you may have been cloned by Mendiplogs Martin, you are beginning to make no sense:lol: You seen my vid of my 066:001_rolleyes: Holiday been good, weather fab:thumbup: