spudulike

Sounds like a half decent engineer could turn down a steel rod and tap it to make what you want - just need to make sure the thread pitch is correct - that is the bit on the end of the thread type i.e. M5 x 0.8 means each thread is 0.8mm apart and 5mm in diameter! If the part is more complex...I will shut up:blushing:

The insurance we are all talking about, is it Public Liability, Employee Liability or Personal Injury - just trying to clarify as I am not involved with running an Arb company! My experience in H&S is from 20 years in engineering and manufacture rather than the Arb industry. With employees there is really little excuse at putting their health at risk so any modified saws or saws in poor repair supplied to workers would be frowned upon. I port saws on the request of the owner and have the decency to question if the saw is for their own use and therefore, their own liability if anything goes wrong. I do check, clean, repair and test the chain brake and ensure the chain catcher and throttle lock work on all saws I get in and personally feel that failure in this area would have more impact on the operators health than a percentage improvement in the saw and how it runs. I know a few guys have standard saws for their employees and keep the modded saws for their own use - it makes sense! Whilst the guys on here want ported saws, I will mod them but will also point out - DON'T HAND THEM OUT TO EMPLOYEES TO DO THEIR JOB ......be safe and sensible!

I can't believe that anyone has or needs to "remap" the onboard computer. By remapping, we are meaning advance and retard on ignition and amounts of fuel air at different revs and in different circumstances - load, no load, bogging etc The parameters are infinite and to start adjusting this area would be a can of worms! I believe the software just downloads how the machine has been running and can set the carb back to default setting - a bit like your dealer can do on your car....well, some of them!

Not too bad but am expecting it all to kick off again soon - was it just a simple muffler mod you wanted? If so, send the saw in and I will get it done PDQ! Glad the 346XP is going well:thumbup:

Thats the issue with aftermarket, if the piston to bore fit isn't good to start with, it will cause these sort of issues. I just rebuilt an MS200 which had an aftermarket kit on it, good compression when here but has gone wobbly now a couple of weeks later even with the work I did to it - back to the drawing board:001_rolleyes:

Like I said, I remind owners of their H&S liabillity toward employees when people ask to have their saws modded. It isn't a cop out but more a reminder that if they employ people and supply their saws, then handing them a non standard saw isn't the smartest thing to do. I could argue that I have seen soooo many MS200Ts without chain catchers and other saws with bust brake handles and throttle locks that H&S would also have a dim view of but anyone considering having their saw modified should take an overview of who will be using the saw and their intended use for the saw!

Better get that 357XP you had in down to Eddie - I take it took more than 15 mins to get going:lol: What was it in the end - I was tempted to start on it! I am guessing that 60 min MS200 pressure check was leaving the fuel tank in place? I usually do it when reassembling the saw again - perhaps we should have another timbersport challenge on saw maintenance!

I think I would have been loading them in to the back of the wagon to be sold on ebay:thumbup:

The advantages of porting are increased cut speed and faster pickup .....plus the saw can be a joy to use and do the same work of a larger saw so less body fatigue. On the down side, you have the noise, petrol consumption and possible deterioation of saws life but not seen this to date! On the H&S side, I port saws for owner operators and would not expect any of the saws I have modded to be handed to paid employees for their use to do their job - that wouldn't be sensible!

The typical fix is to use the sock type pre filter part no 000 141 0300 - it is an elasticated material band that fits around the existing filter.

Thanks for that Guess you have the benefit of being able to have the saw back easily if things aren't right, some of my customers are up to 300 miles away and it isn't easy for me to put an hour plus, on the machine - there is a limit to the amount of firewood I can burn:lol:

Think you may have been cloned by Mendiplogs Martin, you are beginning to make no sense:lol: You seen my vid of my 066:001_rolleyes: Holiday been good, weather fab:thumbup:

Sounds a bit like the metering arm is too high or the needle is leaking under pressure and the fuel is gathering in the lower crankcase causing it to flood and cause over compression. Easy to tell, leave it overnight, take the plug out, take out the plug, turn the saw upside down and pull over the saw with the ignition off. If fuel drips out, check the carb out!

I guess Eddy is working for another and to do as we do is probably an unchargeable extra but I do a good all round inspection when doing any overhaul/porting as much of my work is via courier and I hate the thought that a £2 recoil rope would mess up a rebuilt seized saw and cause the owner hassle for the sake of a ten minute job. Not getting at you Eddie but just don't want the guys I gave done work for thinking i have done the job in 15 mins or even an hour - wish I could work that fast - the strip down is easy, the inspection, clean, test and final setup are the time consuming parts of what I do! A seized cylinder can take 20 mins to an hour for the acid to do its work! I guess we all have our own ways and do our own thing and have our own expectations from the work we do - I take a returned saw very personally

So if a saw comes in, complete and seized, how long to clean the bore, fit a new piston, do the inspection and checks to ensure all is OK and do the final run up and tach? TBH, I generally give it 6 hrs but do give the saw a good clean up! I am a bit fastidious in my work but aim for perfection:blushing:

Not being funny but it takes me a lot longer than that as I pressure/ vac check the saw, do a compression check, check the squish, clean the carb,check the lines and breathers and the final run up and tach takes over 15 mins - I have never had a repaired seized saw fail again. I need to ensure any reason for failure is found and repaired. Just saying this as 15 mins means around £7-15 labour for the job - think I had better start subbing my work out to you Eddy:lol:

We were in Topsham this morning so took the back lanes in.....and out and Rich......not on a sunny day, only when it is cold, nice to see you back, been quiet, hope all is well with you!

And it was a pleasure to meet you as well, a nice business you run down near Exeter plus the weather is being kind to us:thumbup:

The chain break issue will be the clutch needle bearing. The lack of pickup, try turning the L screw 1/4 turn out and adjust the idle to correct the lower idle it will create.

A guy in the States did a test on a 026 before and after porting and it ran cooler after porting. No bad thing IMO!

I serviced two recently with exactly the same fault. The needle bearing fails and the excessive play does the damage.

Not heard of any re-mapping on chainsaws, that is probably damn difficult to do! Not done any 660/066 bids yet Jon, got my own one coming along but too busy to finish at the moment

Not yet Jon, may well do one this year!

Had a 560 in bits but no tuning. They are quite different in design than most!

Not yet, I am sure one will be along soon!