spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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<p>The exhaust port can be opened up to 70% of bore - that is around 2-3mm off each side of the port but blend the sides of the port so they are straight to the port outlet where it meets the exhaust. Make sure you bevel the port edges otherwise you can kiss the piston ring goodbye!</p>
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<p>Uppers - I use a dremmel with a variety of grinding burrs and bits - I am getting to needing a right angled drive but not got one to date.</p>
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<p>The 357Xp has some weird durations on the exhaust port - around 146* and a short blow down figure of around 13.5* - it thrives on transfer velocity hence the crank stuffers so don't bore those transfers out too much - rounding and smoothing is good here!</p>
<p>Good luck</p>
<p>Steve</p>
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If the clutch is slipping, the revs will rise whilst the chain will slow or stop - bit like a car on a sharp incline with a slipping clutch - a rise in revs, lack of drive and a hot smell. If the saw is bogging, you are probably having to clear the build up of fuel in the saw to get it revving and that is why it is a little reluctant to rev out after heavy bogging. A 25" bar is a reasonable load for the saw - if the chain is in good condition and sharp, it should pull it reasonably OK but would not load it up too much if it doesn't like it. Poplar is a light wood and should cut reasonably easily. The saw may need a bit of carb tuning - if it is rich as I think it may be, the plug will be black or very dark brown. Make sure tha air filter and the filter back plate are clean and a compression check would be useful - 145-150 is pretty normal for these saws - a worn bore/piston will give lack of power.
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Bad man Wes, leading the uninitiated in to the porting wasteland!
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Generally you line up the rings with the pins in the piston, oil up the bore and push the cylinder over the piston, easing the piston in to the cylinder - sometimes pushing the ring ends in to the piston may help. Dont forget to seal the lower crankcase to the upper with suitable crankcase sealent. By the way - your links don't work:thumbdown:
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Bad news Geoff, guess they hit the ported MS200? What a bugger:thumbdown:
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What do you recommend with red sling back sandles:001_rolleyes:
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If you use it between the joint then it will fill the clearance fit between the hole and th eplug but if you put it on top of the join as in your image, it will peel off and jam the metering arm or jets in the near future. I have experimented with these damn things and eventually made a stainless punch to put new ones in to MS200 carbs. Get it wrong and you either block the low speed jets in to the carb bore as that is where those little holes lead and the reason for the welch plug (Maintenance) or it will leak and you get idle issues as the fuel gets past the plug rather than being controlled by the L screw! I have used nail varnish(didn't suit me:blushing:), epoxy (deteriorated), superglue (same), JB Weld (came out), Sealall (Best IMO), Loctite 270 (Never dried), superglue and punch (pretty good if worked in). There you go, take your pick:thumbup:
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Thanks for the update, glad we were able to help, interesting tool, not seen another since fixing the one I had in! All good:thumbup:
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It is typical for the residue of sealer to come off around the Welch plug (much bigger on the 020 carb) but they seem to seal better than the MS200 one. If the seal is bad, the idle will wander all over the shop and not dial in as it should and in some cases will soar and then just die. If the pick up is poor, it could be the check valve is a bit dodgy, this can cause mid to high rev issues. A good clean can help but have known these 020 carbs just need replacing if very old and put it down to wear in the throttle valve shaft etc.
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Personally would say an MS200 may be the best choice. The spares are common and they are plentiful secondhand......but also sought after!
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That is the welch plug, they are sealed in by punching only now as the ethanol in the fuel started dissolving the adhesives that were being used to seal them in. All the aforementioned adhesives will deteriorated when fully submerged in fuel - it may say on the tin that they wont' but I have been there and done that. The only stuff that will work is SEALALL or you MAY get away with a very thin smear of superglue and some work. The welch plug MUST be sealed in 100%, leakage will cause a very poor uneven idle. Make sure no adhesive gets in or on to the low speed jet holes:thumbdown:
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These guys must do it for the love of the job.
spudulike replied to Ray1's topic in Maintenance help
Ask Eddy - that's 5 minutes work:lol: Sorry Bud...I will stop now:thumbup: £25 seems damn low for all that - I guess a "Recoil Inspection" can be simply a couple of pulls and looking at the rope - no strip, clean and lube etc There is no way they will be making anything on it and am guessing the £25 bill will end up at around £70 once the parts have been fitted and other "Issues" have been found.......or it is a loss leader for a new business to get exposure....not you is it Ray:sneaky2: -
Nice price on that, I used a US imported one to fit on a Jonsered 2071 that I converted to use the 372 cylinder for a fella named "treemonkey4" a while ago. I redid the port bevels and cleaned the ports a little but the fit and power was good!
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I believe it is Stihl HP Super at 50:1
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Had Burrells 357Xp in today, one of the first I ported. He said that the saw had a changeable idle and traced it back to fine sawdust in the carb gauze strainer. Took the oportunity to measure the compression - 200psi - pretty good considering it just had the base gasket removed and a new piston - it has been run hard for 2-3 years and looks it but the pressure/Vac tests were also perfect.....all good:thumbup:
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Sometimes you can get by with just three screws and have no leakage. Sometimes you can find a slightly oversize screw and then use it to make a new thread in the soft alloy carb housing - done this before with some success!
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The usual thing to look for is spark, compression and fuel. You have a spark, is the plug getting wet after pulling the saw over with the choke on? Is the fast idle part of the carb working on cold start? Check the fuel lines, tank breather etc. You may have flooded the engine - try taking the plug out, turn the igition off and pull it over fast with the saw upside down to get rid of puddled fuel.
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TBH, the 026 is pretty easy - clockwise off, decent socked and bar wrench, use rope or the stihl stop, place it on the ground, hold the rear handle with your foot, front handle with your left hand and lift the wrench with your right - you can get A LOT of force this way and it will shift:thumbup:
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The cylinder looks like it may be salvageable with only that big chunk out of the sxhaust side of the piston that would worry me in regards to the damage it may have done to the cylinder!
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All that is drilled is a retainer that allows you to take the limit adjuster off the H screw giving more adjustment! The coils on these saws seems to be limited to around 12,500, seems a bit low to me. The MS200 still takes some beating when it is set up right!
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As the title says, I need a Stihl coil part No 1122 400 1314 that I am porting. I have an older part that will work but it doesn't have the built in ignition retardation for easy start and the variable ignition curve that the later coil will have. All MS660/MS460 and 046 should have this coil so if anyone is breaking one, please let me know!
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Mmmm, that was made by some lunatic with half a 262 and half a 268....
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Thats nice Jon, are we going to run it on premium scrumpy:lol:
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No problem, glad you approve, I don't think you ever get tired of using a ported 346, they are lush as the yout of today would say:thumbup:
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It generally comes down to replacing the piston when the compression is poor!
