spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Clockwise, Gardenkit may know the standard setting, generally one turn out from fully in but don't assume this.
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If it has a black plug then it sounds like it is running mega rich. It may be good time to see if the H screw needs adjustment or it is possible either the air filter is blocked or the choke flap isn't fully opening when the choke is taken off. Just be aware that if you lean off the H screw too much, it can seize the engine!
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Sounds like fuel starvation at high speed although it may have had a partial seize at some stage. Worth pulling the exhaust off and looking at the piston through the exhaust port, it should be smooth and grey with no black vertical scores. If that is ok then check the gauze strainer filter inside the carb, it may be filled with fine wood chip!
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I had a local guy complaining about me making noise with the saws I was servicing and then rocked up with two lawnmowers to service - people are strange sometimes. Reckon the OP should have offered the guy free wood for a bit of silence - most of my neighbours have had their kit serviced or have purchased it from me....keeps them sweet in the nicest way:thumbup:
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Ouch, that doesn't look good:thumbdown:
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I take it that the 350 Husky didn't oil too well in the end?? Shame as it looked in good condition apart from the heat damage.
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Just undo the nut and let the tightness of the nut undo the stud, put some grease on the external thread of the new one, put the nut on it, put some thread lock on the internal thread, put it in and crank it up tight. Let the thread lock go off over night and then put a socket on the nut and really wallop the socket wrench to jolt it off. Don't do this slowly as you may just undo the stud again but the 270 I recommend is a permanent fix and once dry, very little will shift it but not sure about plastic fitment. If the plastic thread is buggered, you may need to fit an oversize stud or get creative. It must be in plastic and not go through to the engine casting as I have had engines out of MS150s and not had to remove the stud before. Glad you are feeling at home, think Fred has taken up your place now with his saw collection:001_rolleyes:
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Taking the depth gauges/rakers down too much can make a chain awfully grabby. You may find semi chisel is a bit smoother.
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I believe the bar stud just screws in to the plastic case, if the thread is still OK, you should be able to fit a new one and would stick it in with a little Loctite 270 as this dries to be bullet proof. You could take the bar stud out, free the nut and then ensure the outer thread is OK and then refit with thread lock if happy with the outer thread. Don't you just wish you were still just down the road:001_rolleyes:
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Probably the metering arm is a bit high and is beig held open all the time making it flood!
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Try the paperclip on the tool bar at the top of the message window - it can insert a photo!
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No worries, glad it worked, that drop in revs when yanking the throttle in is caused by slightly leaning out before the main jet kicks in and is typical of the L screw being slightly lean causing mid range lag. Seen it before, all good, another issue sorted:thumbup:
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Very droll, good enough for one of mine:lol:
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Go to the locl dealer with evidence of the lower price machine and see if he will match it. If he can't, see if he can add accessories to the value ofthe difference as sometimes they are contractually bound to hold a price. He may be OK about it as long as he makes some margin out of the sale and perhaps follow up business!
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Looks like the best option then is to be unemployed with a drip feed from these socialists, I love this ethic that it is somehow distasteful to actually make some money and go something with your life:sneaky2:
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I based my comments on a number od Stihls (MS211, MS200 etc) that have developed leaks around the fuel line entering the tank due to shrinkage when converted. Not a problem if you just change the part but don't like any fuel leaks especially on top handled saws due to the nature of the use of the saw.
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And when you take your pension, you will have to pay tax on it but on the ISA, apart from the tax on the dividend payment Gordon Brown implemented, all the final gains and withdrawl are completely tax free....some say an equity ISA is more flexible than a pension! Taking a pension makes sense and putting any spare cash in to a long term equity ISA is a very sensible option.
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Yes, you will find it will probably need a newcarb kit and fuel lines after a few tanks as you will start gettig fuel leaking around the fuel line where it pushes in to the tank.
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I think it is about time they started teaching this sort of stuff in schools. Pensions, Mortages, APR, loans, Compound Interest, equity etc I don't think too many people have a clue how it all hangs together and how to make the most of their savings.
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+1q:thumbup:
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You pay in to you pension before paying tax, you can draw a personal pension from 55 if the pot is large enough and if you want to avoid tax, look at equity ISAs
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Everyone is living longer and many have no perception of what money they actually need in old age so ignore it until it is too late. The fact everyone is living longer and the booming population means the government simply can't fund everyone's old age so something has to give. A rough rule of thumb is £5k for every £100k of pension pot so work it out for yourself. Pensions are best done over a long period and started as early as possible. IMO the government has done the right thing in taking the pension and made it law rather than a life style choice!
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Give the L screw 1/4 turn anti clockwise and increase the idle a little to compensate for the drop in revs. sounds like it is slightly lean in the low to mid range.
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Sounds like it has bedded in a little and the idle needs adjustment - either do it yourself if able....circa 1/4 turn clockwise on the LA screw....or just pop it in to your dealer. DO NOT mess with the other two H&L screws!
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You should have offered to pollard him:thumbup:
