spudulike

Ding Dong, another success - it works, be happy with that:thumbup: Probably flooded if it coughed and spluttered some!

I fitted a £5 ebay speed adjuster to my cheapo Silverline one and it stops the teeth getting hot at all - in fact the woodchip on the teeth stays brown and doesn't go black as it burns with the heat! A real good mod:thumbup:

I have had a couple of 038s in over the last two days, unusual as I have only ever done a couple. One saw had a toasted piston so fitted a new one and is waiting for a new flywheel side crank seal as it is leaking very slightly. The other was a full service, looks in reasonable shape, the clutch drum needed changing and replaced the clutch springs. I always find that the clutch is pretty much welded to the crank and have to use rope down the plug hole and an impact driver to shift the things and then a ground socket and bar wrench to shift them. On one saw I noticed it flooded every time I replaced the fuel cap, some may have noticed that when doing this, the pressure increases in the tank and can cause fuel to leak until pressure is normal in the fuel tank. I pressure checked the carb and noticed that the carb sealed fine with the diaphragm cover and diaphragms out and then leaked with them in place. The carb used is a Bing and has a plastic metering arm that tends to bend and get too high over time causing this phenomena so I used a bit of heat on it and bent it flat. All is good now and the saw doesn't flood any more. Just got to put the seal in on the one with the air leak and then rebuild it!

What Eddie says is worth trying, sometimes the spark can not be that clear so make sure you try pulling it over briskly and in subdued light - keep the plug away from the plug hole or you risk loosing your arm hairs and eyebrows:thumbdown: Some saws seem to generate spark at very slow revs and some need a damn good tug - worth trying to close the gap between the coil and flywheel magnets a little - this can boost the spark sometimes!

I think it was Mister Solutions but they went tits up but were trading as lawn and something else - search the bay - the user name was blindinsect!

I found an aftermarket one on ebay and seemed to do the trick, worth trying a few to get to the good ones!

Not sure we want to go there:blushing:

Or if you are creative, you can make a tool out of an old socket or a piece of sturdy plate steel, some dowels and a bit of brazing - just get creative or spend some dosh! The husky ones without a hex boss are the worst but the tool makes it easier!

Go to my "what's on your bench thread" most cylinders are salvageable and with a meteor piston, it will be near good as new! The 42mm was a pre NE silverside model, the smaller measurement is wear and ease in the manufacturing

Not too difficult just make sure the gaskets are put in the same way as they came out. Try Rowena Motors, excellent value, fast delivery, very helpful. Don't be put off by their website! I usually just mail them my requirements and request to pay by PayPal. It works for me!

I had one in that had sheared this and another bolt, had to strip it down to remove the broken bits, tap and replace them!

The metal caged bearings appear to be better. I thought there were issues in the machining of the early crankshafts but would be good if someone linked to Stihl could comment!

There have been numerous threads that are very similar, strip the clutch drum out and inspect the clutch, drum, oiler worm drive and needle bearing.

Some saws have a one way breather so if the fuel expands in the tank with heat, it is possible that the pressure may force fuel past the needle valve in the carb and flood the engine, especially on older saws with softer needle valve springs. If the saw has a two way valve, it should make it more reliable in extreme temprtures. I guess a reasonable thing to do is to leave the cap slightly undone and the saw on it's side if left in the heat or leave it in the shade. These are just my thoughts and not from experience though I have seen saws flood from doing the fuel cap up and this pressure forcing fuel past the needle!

The brake should hold it firm, a saw makes little power until over 8Krpm and maximum power around 9500rpm so at idle, if the brake band slips, there is something wrong with it. Strip down the mechanism and inspect the components for wear.

If you have fuel leaking out of the tank, if it ignights, it will harm you do get it fixed. Possibly a crack in the tank, holed fuel line, leak around the fuel line or faulty/missing breather. Also check the filler cap, it is possible that it wasn't done up correctly and it leaks sometimes.

I will have to try that one, sounds like a nice business model, the only flaw I can see is..............

Something lile this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=stihl+handle&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xstihl+starter+handle.TRS0&_nkw=stihl+starter+handle&_sacat=0

Yeah, give it to someone who knows what they are doing:lol: In reality, just strip it down taking lots of pics with the phone and making close note of the order of the gaskets and diaphragms! There should be a gauze strainer in there somewhere and that needs to be cleaned if dirty. I would look at adjusting it first before stripping it, those carb screw drivers are available on ebay! Not sure where you are but maybe one of the techs on this site are close by!

Cheers Andy, long time no hear, hope all is good. My MS200 refurb includes a new accelerator pump as standard.....funny that but it gets rid of that saw you have just refurbed playing up soon after return:thumbup: Just received 10 pump kits so lots in stock:sneaky2:

Just go on ebay, they are usually only a couple of quid!

Oh wooops:001_rolleyes: been a long day and not familiar with the Mitox range, thought it mighty strange:lol: Think I will let you sort this one out:thumbup:

Beginning to make sense, I know you sell these machines Barrie hence mentioning you earlier. I thought the needle running down the middle of the barrel is usually raised to richen the carb but guess this is a bastardised version for chainsaws. Only ever seen them on strimmers or trimmers!

Thats a shame, the woes of running a saw that doesn't oil, it looked like it had got megga hot:thumbdown:

Get a photo up as it will help us see what you mean. On most carbs there are two screws close to ach other, the one nearest the cylinnder is always the L or low speed screw. The large screw away from the other two screws is the idle and is always adjustble. There are some carbs that have one screw only and these work by bypassing a regulated amount of air past the throttle valve - the MS171/181 are examples of this type of carb.