spudulike

Not a phrase you hear that often in everyday conversation!

"Coefficient of expansion" now that is an interesting phrase! Sounds like a past in engineering or physics!

Have you tried bleach on it, did some moss once and it was good:thumbup:

got a View Quest DAB radio in the workshop, bit of a 50s retro feel to it but the sound is excellent as it is stereo and with a wooden box. The best thing is it picks up all the "Absolute" series of channels and Absolute 80s and Absolute Rock is the way to go IMO, Soooooo much better than just about every local or national station......Heart......more choice....my arse:001_rolleyes:

That valve in the pipe looks like a pop rivet to me, looks like the carb is probably non original, the saw will probably run without using the primer bulb as most saws use an impulse arrangement on a pump diaphragm under the carb cover held on with one screw. It may just need a few more pulls to get it going. The carb in the amazon listing is for a Husqvarna 141 etc and doesn't have a primer bulb hence the single connector and is probably the carb you have on your saw anyway! I don't know if you are interested but I can pull one of these carbs with two connectors off a scrapper I have here and get it in the post for say £20 inc delivery! I would remove the saws muffler and double check the piston before purchasing any carb as these saws are usually owned by weekend warriors who cant mix 50:1 fuel oil:001_rolleyes: and usually seize them.

I got the brass Sealey one, seems good but have had to change an O ring and mod it a little:001_rolleyes:

Glad that saw is still going, from what I found and the damage it had, it should have remained under your bench but just goes to show what can be done and how much you can actually get away with. 576 - drop it down if you want it done but not before the end of this month as I just have too much on. My 357 could do with a few hours on it to bed it in, I barely use it and the 066 is done but not even tried it yet, just don't get the chance!

Not really, I wasn't going to spend a fortune on the kits available from the chainsaw manufacturers so I developed my own, one from the sort of gauge you listed for pressure and also from a brake bleeding kit for vacuum. The issues you have are how to connect the gauge, how to produce positive pressure, the one way valve needed to seal a positive pressure - the vacuum part of it was much easier. If you read the earlier sections of my "whats on your bench thread", you will see images of me testing for pressure and vacuum. Some do use the Mityvac kit but make sure you get the one that does both pressure and vaccum.

Here is the parts list for the saw - https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=uCaiVYOeOuLN7QaPt6jQBw&url=http://ersatzteillisten.motoruf.de/Partner/Motorsaegen/ipl,%2520partner,%2520p351,%2520p370,%2520p390,%2520p420,%25202002-08,%2520chain%2520saw.pdf&ved=0CCEQFjAB&usg=AFQjCNHhFAtWDq--0KhDWQQhse5wCr-55Q&sig2=dSnG2d3mbBjZgF1_JBqkFw Typically the carb will have two connectors, one for the main fuel feed from the tank and the primer will simply draw fuel through the carb and return it to the tank, this is how most of them work. I have seen some that will create a positive pressure in the tank that is enough to force fuel in to the tank but typiclally, you will have two connections on your carb, the lower one on the clutch side will come from the fuel tank and the one on the other side goes to the primer bulb and the other pipe on the primer bulb returns fuel to the tank. I have just checked the Jonsered version of your saw and this is as it is! the product was manufactured for Partner, McCulloch and Jonsered by Electrolux of which Husqvarna was part of for a while.

Really.........amazing:sneaky2:

Been on one of those damn four mix long reach trimmers today, fortunately better than the ones you had - hate the bloody things, sound lie a fishing boat on idle:lol: The other part of the day was an MS200, always enjoyable to me and got in to autodrive with Absolute 80s in the background, Frank Skinner and the lovely Emily Dean in the background, all good:thumbup:

Thanks Patrick, glad to get an angle on the fact that the ported saws are standing up well to serious use and that they are always the "Go To" saw, seems it is often the case:thumbup: I tested a ported 560 against my 357XP that is far from standard, there are vids on Youtube and my 357XP had the edge on the 560 but the 560 had some serious damage on it that I had to sort plus my 357XP is running a pop up piston and some other tricks under it's top housing:thumbup: Cheers

Just looked, no coil left on the body I have, nust have gone some time ago:thumbdown:

Depends on the job, the access and torque needed, ball ends are great for restricted access, 1/2" drives for torque etc, just depends on what you ae doing - most of my work uses simple cheap T bars with hex bits!

And something to do with Thunder in the Mountains - think is was a euphemism:blushing:

The gauge is OK but how are you going to put the pressure or create a vacuum in the crankcase? you also need a method of creating a fully sealed connection with the cylinder or crankcase. The kit is missing a vacuum pump, a pressure pump and the valves needed to create pressure or vacuum!

Nice:lol:

TBH, some of my tools are not the highest quality but they are very much capable of doing the job. This game is all about selecting the RIGHT type of tool rather than being flash with a load of Snap On or Facom kit - I tend to use only around three socket sizes, two sizes of long reach and a load of T bar wrenches to do most jobs.....none are that expensive and do the job:thumbup:

Try putting a pad of foam over the top pipe and then when you do the bar up, it will clamp it tight. I have seen the bar adjuster wear a hole in to the oil tank on high hour machines as well!

It is nice when you get customer feedback:thumbup: I ported a 346XP and 372Xp for a fella in the south and when the 346XP is described as "really Snappy" and "a joy to use" then after using the 372 you get....."I thought the 346 was good...." and "The 372 is an animal" I feel happy that my work is being appreciated. I don't do a massive amount of cutting myself and rely on the owners reaction to tell me I am doing good, some saws I have timed in the cut such as the 357 and 560 but it is something I cant do that often so this feedback is nice:thumbup:

A typical liquid gasket with a high temperature rating, I believe the one I use is up to 270 dec C but isn't anyting special to this application, many swear by Yamabond by Yamaha, I have used Blue Hylomar, a Honda recommended sealent.....just make sure it is petrol resistant and good at high temp, the pressure in the crankcases is pretty low at the best of times compared to the top end!

Generally the chain tightens and starts to sound like the tracks on a tank - very squeeky and dry. When the oil flows again, the chain becomes very loose and baggy! You can also see the wood forminng a sort of resin coatinng on the chain and it looks dry when the oil stops flowing. The standard check is to point the bar tip at a clean piece of wood and expect a line of oil to form in 1-3 seconds revving the saw flat out!

Sounds like it Ed, if you can post a picture, I do have an old Echo trimmer in the shed and if we are lucky, it may share the same coil....you never know:thumbup:

As Stubby says, you may be able to salvage the cylinder if you are OK with mechanics and are careful. The Nikasil plating is damn hard and tends to be fairly resilient but any deeperscores in the cylinder plating are bad news if above the exhaust port. The cylinder can look a bit bad but often clean up. I have around a 98% success rate! The 350 and all these saws tend to leak around the inlet manifold, there is a tendency for the impulse nipple to split where it pushes in to the cylinder and is hard to see - I have a picture of this on my "Whats on your bench" thread. The seals can go and it will be the clutch side 9 times out of 10! The carb H&L screws should be one turn out on each plus it will be worth checking the fuel line is not holed. You can try an aftermarket P&C but some are a bit hit and miss but make sure the saw is checked for air leaks as something has caused this failure and it needs to be rectified before running again!

Saws are generally manufactured to leave a small amount of oil in the tank if both fuel and oil tanks are filled and then the saw run until it runs out of fuel. In this hot weather, it should oil a little more than if the saw is used in the cold. Check the bar oiling hole is free of chip and blockage, check the oil channel on the bar mount is clear and if that doesn't clear it, send it back to the dealer. It is normal to get a line of oil forming in 1-2 seconds if the saw bar tip is pointed at some fresh cut wood and revved flat out - standard check and very useful. You could try mixing a little fuel or diesel with the oil and see if it clears but reckon something is wrong.