spudulike

You will find those little round things on the front of the exhaust prise off and are in fact cover plugs over the traditional holes that the bolts are in. Just get a small sharp screwdriver in there and prise off both of those covers:thumbup:

Think I would stick an 18" on the 268 and go down each side - or organise a "Sawfest" and line the wood up - one stipulation, no cookies!

Ah, that looks familiar!

You are really pushing it as you need a saw with decent torque to pull a 2' bar - 80cc+ would do it in a manner where you don't start the cut in the morning and finish it when the sun goes down:001_rolleyes: The yanks fit semi or full skip chain, basically every other cutter is missing so there is less drag in the cut - that would help it maintain cutting speed but this type of setup is pretty rare in the UK. Basically to keep a saw on the boil, you need to keep it within its powerband, if the drag on the bar cutting is too great, the saw will keep dropping it's revs below the powerband and it will bog - that will get really wearing after a while and a simple cut will become time consuming. If you have the saw, stick the 20" on it and see how it pulls - the condition of the saw will also dictate how well it works - these saws are pretty long in the tooth so if compression isn't at its best..............

A 372Xp will pull a 24" just about but a 20" will be significantly livlier, if you go 28" the 395XP or MS660 would be a good but expensive choice. If you want to go old school, my Husky 181SE pulls a 24" bar with ease so perhaps some old school iron may fit the bill - I do have an old 280CD that is working, no chain brake but reckon it would have more than enough on a 24" and not break the bank. I would do what the earlier poster said - just cut down both sides - probably faster to do on a small bar than trying a really long bar. The specs may list stupidly long bars but it doesn't mean a saw will pull them - a very rough guide is to divide the saws engine size in cc by three and that is th max length bar to use so 60cc becomes 20" but most would ft a 15-18" bar on this saw to get the most from it.

24" - 28" on a 61, that is madness, it will bog severely in a cut of that size. Skip chain and 1.3mm gauge and you may get away with it but not something I would personally try! The 61 would be more at home on a 16"!

They look better than most of the ones I get in for fixing:sneaky2: TBH, I have had some right old scrappers in and the last guy who picked his saw up, thought he had been given the wrong saw - had that twice now, they can't believe how clean they are or how well it runs after a good going over:thumbup:

Ah - you have a keen eye, I found the impulse line was screwed and wanted to see if the seals were shot so took the impulse line off and used a piece of fuel line with a nail stuck up it to seal it off so a pressure/vac test could be done. I always hate finding one bad leak, waiting for a spare, repairing it only to find that there is another one elsewhere and another spare part is required! I don't fall for that one now:thumbup: Yup, Ag engineer, if it works, is strong and will last - who gives a .......... The other option was side cover mounted spikes but that is never a satisfactory fix so got some big aftermarket ones on the way - one for the cover and one for the saw:thumbup:

Over the last week, I have had a bevy of MS460s in for fixing, saws seem to come along in groups of the same model - strange! This one is in and was purchased second-hand by the owner and never serviced in many years until......it stopped:sneaky2: Got to the issue relatively quickly, a split impulse line and a bad crank seal letting in air and stopping the saw revving out. Unfortunately, many years of abuse had left it with a multitude of other issues - the top AV mount had failed, probably due to the support washer assembly missing but this had taken out the lower AV as well. The spikes/dogs were missing and the buggered top mount was the obvious reason. I drilled the remaining casing and knocked up a support plate which I have now bolted to the saw. A rough and ready repair but very strong and will support the "Bad Boy" dogs I have ordered. A new seal is fitted, a dual port muffler is to be fitted and a load of other missing/damaged parts!

Typically an air leak will initially manifest itself as a reluctance for the revs to snap back down to an even idle on releasing the throttle. This may be followed by the engine screaming and reaching higher revs than it should. If the saw hasn't seized my now, you may get bogging in the mid range or no high revs at all. Carb settings will start going out of the window with the L screw requiring an extra half turn or so to get the idle to behave but the saw will never have a stable idle. The intake is a bit of an achilles heel of this range of saws but much of it is down to poor fitting of the manifold with the impulse nipple on the manifold often being crushed!

Use the original cylinder unless the plating has worn through or there is scoring through the plating (do not confuse with seize transfer). Fit a Meteor piston and all will be very good. The plating very rarely wears through and doesn't wear enough to warrant replacement. Nikasil is the plating that was developed by Mahle who manufacture many OEM parts and not a manufacturer. Originally Chrome was used many years ago but Nikasil is harder.

I purchased a non running Jonsered once and took the muffler off, looked in to the exhaust port....WTF, I cold see the ring ends and the ring location pin through the port:001_rolleyes: The joys of ebay:lol:

If you take ADWs part number, put it in to Google, it will list possible online dealers selling the part. Mowersonline.co.uk tend to be around the cheapest or just use your local dealer if you want to purchase locally.

It is really one for the dealer that sold it to you as the saw is still under warranty but it is probably fuel related as this is the most common issue with small garden kit. Unfortunately, the auto-tune isn't easy to work with and many dealers will just replace the whole unit if an issue is present. When you pull it over 10-20 pulls, is their lots of fuel in the cylinder and on the spark plug? Worth checking as it will show you if the carb is letting fuel through to the cylinder. If it is relatively dry, make sure the choke is shutting completely when on. When it does start, does it smoke like mad, 40 - 100 pulls with the choke on would normally saturate an engine in fuel and flood it excessively! It is also possible that the piston has had a minor seize so worth checking the compression is up in the 150-170psi range. 145 and lower isn't good and removing the exhaust gives you a good view of the piston and the part that usually scores up when the saw seizes. Also worth checking the plug out and making sure you haven't got a rare but possible issue with it. Personally, I would use the dealer - they sold it to you, 40-100 pulls is madness, I would expect a regularly used saw to work from cold on 5 pulls and 1 pull from hot.

I like this quote a lot, heard it many times and sort of fits in with "A fool and his money are easily parted!"

Spot on, I get enough wood for my burner from some of the local guys I repair saws for, I turn their kit round as a priority and keep their costs down so it works both ways - reciprocation is my code:thumbup:

But there is an arrow on the top of the piston pointing toward the exhaust port to make it obvious:001_rolleyes: Think we should be on stage:lol:

I can't think anyone would be that silly:sneaky2:

No heaters on this one, that aluminium transfer was pretty thick, not the worst I have seen but not far off it. Came off in the end and looks clean now. Should be OK once a new piston is fitted:thumbup:

I would think that the owner has run out of tallent:sneaky2: The vibration sounds like something is out of balance, was the flywheel or clutch removed, how did the original fail, does the saw turn over well with the spark plug out. It is possible that it was seized and during this seizure, the con rod was bent. Seen it before! The only real way of telling is to loosen the four cylinder bolts, place your finger on the cylinder and press lightly, turn the engine over slowly and see if the cylinder rocks from side to side. If it does, the rod is bent - it is possible to knock it out but you won't find the method in any book:001_rolleyes: It is also possible some shyte has fallen in to the main bearings and is causing the issue......and they say this is easy:001_rolleyes:

A couple of things to try - look unde the carb cover held on with one big screw, there is a gauze strainer under there, about the diameter of a pencil - check it is clear of woodchip. The other thing it may be is a hole/split fuel line, they tend to split where they compress in to the fuel tank! Other than that, the carb may need a strip and clean - try taking the H&L screws out and use one of those red pipes on a can of WD40 and get it down their screws before replacing.

Typical plants that will grow in mega dry conditions are Periwinkle, Rose of Sharon (Hypericum) and Rosemary. It may be Rose of Sharon!

Good, it should be tached to 12500 -13000 against a max of 13500rpm:thumbup:

Had a Husqvarna 576XP autotune in, obviously seized and in this case strange as it had actually left the engine locked up and not loose as is normally the case. I stripped off both covers, bit of penetrating oil down the plug hole, wrench on the flywheel and it came loose pretty easily. Popped the top end off, very clean saw but unusual in how defined the seize was down both sides of the piston. Not the normal less defined damage you get. The cylinder has been cleaned and lightly honed and looks pretty damn good with little visual damage and it can't be felt at all. New piston on order.

Looks mega rich, looks like either the air filter is blocked making it that way or the carb H screw needs some adjustment. It could be just too much oil being added to the fuel - 50:1 is normal. The electrodes on the plug should be the colour of coffee with milk added! It may be worth checking the exhaust port is clean as well, carbon can form near where it enters the cylinder and can fall in causing scuffs to the piston!