spudulike
-
Posts
14,914 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
You will just fill it with more saws:blushing: don't ask how I know:001_rolleyes:
-
Believe me, I have more tools but the ones on the board are the usual suspects, the tap and die set, drills, carbide burrs, pullers, long handle pliers, files etc etc are elsewhere!
-
Know the feeling, the wife keeps me in check, had to shift the beer to let her get to the freezer! Serious stuff:001_rolleyes:
-
Man hug Barrie, just taking the pee a bit. I have cast aside my wayward ways and am following your Formula 1 GP style workshop:thumbup: Feeling quite happy now:thumbup:
-
The time has come when the workshop needed a good clean out and seeing as I will be going full time in the New Year, thought I had better get the tools sorted and in order. The compressor is now on the floor next to a big plastic container which will contain all the crap that used to be blasted all over the place. Got an industrial extractor now - 700 cubic metre per hour which helps clearing the smoke:001_rolleyes: A new big rubber mat is on order to keep the dirt off the shoes and all the tools are a bit more accesible - looking good IMO......not up to GardenKits gay workshop (he isn't of course) but getting there!
-
In answer to the holes in Nikasil - yes, I have seen it on a couple of occasions where the piston has seized and ripped some of the plating off the bore - typiccally to the right side of the exhaust port for some reason! I have only seen a handful of worn bores, one through ingress of dirt through a gauze air filter, the other through worn main bearings.
-
Fuel injection is interesting, no messing with inlet durations, just dial a figure in and bingo, no grinding metal and using a timing wheel......the only issue is they wont allow us to experiment......Booooo:001_rolleyes:
-
Not sure TBH, stihl list the whole assembly as one part so I guess it isn't meant to be taken apart....Mmmmmm and I would:lol: These are valves, one allows fuel to be pulled in to the primer bulb, the other one allows fuel to be pushed in to the actual carb. One valve will seal under vacuum and open under pressure with the other one doing the complete opposite. I guess you could use a bit of soft fuel hose on the right holes and work out what needs to be done?
-
The older 372XP non XTorq model is a fine saw, very strong and have modded a large number of them as the design of the saw allows the inlet and exhaust ports to be modified up to the safe limit making them pull like a train. Had them running at well over 14,000 rpm before!
-
Both done now, just waiting for the sprocket on the 362. It spools up pretty quick, be interesting trying it as it crackles a bit! The 357 will be nice, good compression, always a good sign!
-
I take it you are adjusting the idle screw? The two screws close together are the H & L screws (high and low speed) these should be left alone. The screw you need to adjust is the Idle screw which is a big conical screw compared to the others. It can help sometimes to remove the top cover and ensure the screwdriver is meshing with the screw as it should.
-
What happened to the ported 372xp? Guest had the hardest of lives!
-
It doesn't look too bad. Use chemical if the transfer is thick or some 400 grit if it is slight and just make sure it is very smooth before fitting a new piston. Make sure the reason for failure is known and corrected before use.
-
That was a strange bit of design, as you say, seemed to work OK and these old saws often come up like new with a bit of cleaning giving a solid robust tool for a bit of winter fuel:thumbup:
-
Correct and good advice. You always get a lip formed on discs through wear and rust and is perfectly normal. Manufacturers give a minimum disc thickness and if you are close or beyond that, they need replacing. If they need doing, look up the cost of the discs and pads, if the labour is then a couple of hours then you are about right on the cost.
-
Neat job:thumbup:
-
I guess we have to ask if this AEA have the power or authority to ban the sale of top handled saws and if their banning would be a good thing when climbers would then be forced to use ground saws for limbing and pruning work which in itself would cause more injury than the use of a few uneducated people using top handled saws in an unsuitable manner.
-
It shouldn't do that, all saws make virtually no power at idle revs so to slip shows that there is something wrong. Bit like resting the bar on a piece of wood with light force and then trying to rev the machine - chances are it will just bog. Do it at flat out and the engine will be on full chat and stopping it will take far more force. It may be that the brake handle pin has broken, the spring is worn or the linkage has failed. It needs sorting for safe use!
-
Yup, I would say Stubby but a certain AT member would get a bit excited:lol:
-
Not a bloody big pipe, a short stubby one around 5mm proud of the plastic cover:001_rolleyes: Size isn't everything:lol:
-
I know I could be refered to as an obsessional perfectionist but hows about trimming the plastic struts around the hole and how cool would it look if you brazed a little outlet pipe on the muffler. Ah well, must just be me then:001_rolleyes::lol:
-
If your local guy has the autotune diagnostic kit, it will show up as a rich setting on the H&L screws - seen this before on a 540 with leaking seals. It does sound like fuel starvation at high revs or an air leak though!
-
Yes, 372XP is inboard, check for wear on all components, it shouldn't slip and shoud stop a saw dead from high revs.
-
There is no real science behind a simple muffler mod, On a saw this size 8mm - 10mm hole, you need to drill it where the outlet will not melt plastic although sometimes the plastic can be cut back to reveal the new hole. Position - I try to avoid having the outlet direct in line with the exhaust port as it can get VERY loud. Generally on saws like this, I try to get an idea of where the exhaust port is and look for the exhaust gases to hit the opposing side of the exhaust and then drill a hole to make their escape as straight and easy as possible. The can isn't tuned like an expansion tuned pipe so all you are doing is increasing the flow. Not done a 193 to date hence the info above and not a direct answer!
-
I did come across these things - Alarm trip mine (12g) Basically a 12 bore cartridge with the shot taken out so around an inch high and a holder and a trip wire. Set it up, trip wire across the entrance or tied to some of the gear and when the trip is pulled....bingo. it goes off with a bang of a shotgun. It may give them a heart attack or even scare yourself if you let it off by mistake but thought it was a neat alarm:thumbup:
