spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I had an ephiphany some time ago and came across what I call the wobbulating head. The more common name for this is the "Turbo" head and is a ceramic nozzle that makes a needle jet swirl around in circles giving the coverage of a fan but with the power of the single jet. These heads are a must for cleaning down drives and patios as they make a run of the mill washer in to a really powerful tool! Sorry if everybody already knows this!
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Not being funny just curious, the OEM set up has circa 1mm squish and allows the removal of the 0.5mm gasket. If your squish on the Hyway was too low or the piston was clouting the top of the cylinder without the base gasket then you would take off circa 0.5mm or less and would only do more if you were turning down the base as well? What sort of compression are you getting on this setup Eddie?
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Well I hope the other half doesn't mind having it on the mantle piece and dusting it once a week:lol:
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What would be good would be a 660 with a Hyway kit on it after three years daily use in the field. Now a few of these still working with full power would be impressive. A saw running after repair is one thing but it still be running in a few years time is more impressive and is something I aim for. Congratulations on your perforated thumb but you haven't lived until you have stuck a 6mm drill straight through your fleshy part of your thumb:lol:: Let us know how it goes in time, will be good to know!
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Yeah, what do I know, when you get the arrows on Chinese Pistons pointing to the inlet, incorrectly formed ring ends, under tempered rings, soft circlips and port bevels that bad that the ring snags in under five hours running......what do I know! Hyway make some of the better kits but there is no way it is manufactured as well as Mahle or OEM kit. If you think it is then go buy a Trabbie and kid yourself it is a Mini Cooper:lol: Sure the saw runs, it has compression and should be ok but the point I make is will it still pull a 3 foot bar in five years time? I have used the odd kit where the saw has buggered the cylinder and the owner wants a cost effective repair but the longevity of the repair would concern me on a primary saw!
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Probably fuel starvation, check the fuel line, filter, carb gauze strainer and give the carb a good clean. Pull the H&L screws and get some cleaner down them. Most saws that have not run for a long time and fail like this are fuel issues some may develop air leaks. The fact the saw will run on choke means the high speed carb circuit is working but the low speed one could be blocked or there is a lack of fuel at idle.
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I was more concerned by the piston to bore fit. The piston was just a little bit too loose for my liking. The kit was for a MS650, It ran OK, got no idea how it went after some use but it just looked like the manufacturer made the piston undersize to avoid seizure issues and was more than I consider OEM standard.
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"Made Up", I have you know that people have rocked up and actually met me:001_rolleyes: Meteor are my favoured aftermarket manufacture simply because they use Caber rings, decent circlips and have never needed any easing, de-flashing or any sort of work to get them to work. I have used them in many machines and never had any issues with them at all, even after years of service. I have tried Hyway parts and they are good but the piston to cylinder clearence always seems a little bit more then I would consider top quality but time is the biggest test, It will probably be fine and Hyway would be my second choice.
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Quite correct, wonder where you all got this rule from:blushing:
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I had one of these to cut my firewood and really liked it, the AVs were very good and the power on a 15" bar was also very good. Cut a fair bit with it and it was like a smaller version of the 346XP. Quite revvy and never felt out of power even cutting 12" oak.
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Very true, a week in the log store of a day indoors and they will be dry again and ready to burn!
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You will just fill it with more saws:blushing: don't ask how I know:001_rolleyes:
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Believe me, I have more tools but the ones on the board are the usual suspects, the tap and die set, drills, carbide burrs, pullers, long handle pliers, files etc etc are elsewhere!
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Know the feeling, the wife keeps me in check, had to shift the beer to let her get to the freezer! Serious stuff:001_rolleyes:
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Man hug Barrie, just taking the pee a bit. I have cast aside my wayward ways and am following your Formula 1 GP style workshop:thumbup: Feeling quite happy now:thumbup:
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The time has come when the workshop needed a good clean out and seeing as I will be going full time in the New Year, thought I had better get the tools sorted and in order. The compressor is now on the floor next to a big plastic container which will contain all the crap that used to be blasted all over the place. Got an industrial extractor now - 700 cubic metre per hour which helps clearing the smoke:001_rolleyes: A new big rubber mat is on order to keep the dirt off the shoes and all the tools are a bit more accesible - looking good IMO......not up to GardenKits gay workshop (he isn't of course) but getting there!
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In answer to the holes in Nikasil - yes, I have seen it on a couple of occasions where the piston has seized and ripped some of the plating off the bore - typiccally to the right side of the exhaust port for some reason! I have only seen a handful of worn bores, one through ingress of dirt through a gauze air filter, the other through worn main bearings.
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Fuel injection is interesting, no messing with inlet durations, just dial a figure in and bingo, no grinding metal and using a timing wheel......the only issue is they wont allow us to experiment......Booooo:001_rolleyes:
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Not sure TBH, stihl list the whole assembly as one part so I guess it isn't meant to be taken apart....Mmmmmm and I would:lol: These are valves, one allows fuel to be pulled in to the primer bulb, the other one allows fuel to be pushed in to the actual carb. One valve will seal under vacuum and open under pressure with the other one doing the complete opposite. I guess you could use a bit of soft fuel hose on the right holes and work out what needs to be done?
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The older 372XP non XTorq model is a fine saw, very strong and have modded a large number of them as the design of the saw allows the inlet and exhaust ports to be modified up to the safe limit making them pull like a train. Had them running at well over 14,000 rpm before!
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Both done now, just waiting for the sprocket on the 362. It spools up pretty quick, be interesting trying it as it crackles a bit! The 357 will be nice, good compression, always a good sign!
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I take it you are adjusting the idle screw? The two screws close together are the H & L screws (high and low speed) these should be left alone. The screw you need to adjust is the Idle screw which is a big conical screw compared to the others. It can help sometimes to remove the top cover and ensure the screwdriver is meshing with the screw as it should.
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What happened to the ported 372xp? Guest had the hardest of lives!
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It doesn't look too bad. Use chemical if the transfer is thick or some 400 grit if it is slight and just make sure it is very smooth before fitting a new piston. Make sure the reason for failure is known and corrected before use.
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That was a strange bit of design, as you say, seemed to work OK and these old saws often come up like new with a bit of cleaning giving a solid robust tool for a bit of winter fuel:thumbup:
