spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Yes, the first one was a bit bad:sneaky2: ......wasn't it the lumberjack song:blushing: Your attire was a bit risqué
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This is of course correct but it effectively turns the carb back in to one very similar to the 020 carb which didn't have the accelerator pump and many use as a suitable alternative. Barrie is correct in the carb settings that are required and I personally replace the pumps now rather than work around the issue so great minds work alike but if the fix fails to work due to wear on the body of the carb, would still use this work around if the rest of he carb was serviceable. So Barrie - think we agree on this one:thumbup:
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You can't visually inspect the welch plug but if it leaks, it tends to give issues similar to a faulty accelerator pump. If you forced too much epoxy in to the welch plug on the back off the carb when sealing the pump, it can flow in to the check valve but this usually kills the high speed revs leaving just the idle.
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Top man Barrie, think we should do a duet of that Elaine Paige and Barbara Dickson classic "I know him so well".....reckon it would go viral:lol:
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Barrie forgot to mention a leaking welch plug and faulty check valve! Have you checked the pumping diaphragm?
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The one I did had an aluminium can, wasn't easy but managed to open it up and pull the bugger out:thumbup:
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Yup, that needs to come out and I have the tools to adjust the carb. I did one of these for a local fella and he seemed happy enough....in fact he was raving about it:thumbup:
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Yay........glad you are liking it:thumbup: Now don't drop it out of a tree:001_rolleyes:
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Fiddly but it isn't too bad, just leave as much connected as possible:thumbup:
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Is the idle 100% perfect and even? At what point does the saw struggle, mid revs or just 3/4 + throttle. How do you know it isn't the accelerator pump? Barrie has a similar thoughts to me......you can get arrested for that:lol:
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Well that is a load of.......you just haven't had one of my serviced ones:001_rolleyes:
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I know the issue and know no fix other than changing the undercarriage. There have been various mods in this area so the new part should stop it happening again!
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Yup, AC motors draw a lot of current on startup which then falls to normal levels. 780w is a small generator and know it will not be enough to power one as I tried to power a freezer during a long power outage and mine wouldn't start the freezer compressor!
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It is usually more cost effective to do a muffler mod as many of these saws are clam type and cuts down the amount you can do to them! I did do one recently and it had a Kat in the muffler. Made quite a difference taking it out!
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That will be interesting one, where do you think the couriers will take it this time:001_rolleyes:
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L&S engineers or ebay!
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I don't remember making it whisper on the job description:001_rolleyes: I will fit a bigger muffler next time we meet, perhaps the exhaust off a Toyota Prius:thumbup:
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Yes, probably the little oil pipe under the machine! Fit new or degrease and seal with suitable sealant.
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A hole in the impulse line would generally cause the idle to be high and flat out revs to be higher than normal and possible seizure after that. There is a slight possibility that the hole is causing fuel shortage at high revs causing a reverberation as the fuel kicks in and out but not a usual symptom but who knows with autotune - it may be compensating for the impulse hole!
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Nope, not ported any Solos to date. Your saw is of a strange construction, a sort of clam type crankcase but split higher than usual leaving a cylinder more like a vertical split crankcase which is good. The cylinder would need to be removed to do the porting unless it was just a muffler mod being done. On some saws you can drop the base gasket but depends on the squish clearance set on the standard set up. You can machine pistons, cylinder bases and squish bands but don't go this far on woods ported kit although we have done a few in our time. Gaskets - I hold a wide selection of gasket material so make my own up where necessary.....you can't keep a good man down:sneaky2:
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Going to be busy.......I am ALREADY busy:001_rolleyes: I haven't had a day off for three weeks, just the odd half day!
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The link rod is usually an interference fit in to the plastic housing. It sounds like your plastic housing has worn in this area so would degrease the seat and use some epoxy resin around the area to seat it. Once the internal cover is on, the part is held in place.
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Hope that is the earlier model (non Xtorq) Have PMed you the costs and use the Ported cost in my PM for this saw! It is one of the best and can now say that you will get at least 30% improvement in cut speed!
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Will PM you!
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Use a Cobalt drill, they are damn good on hard steel!
