spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I find many decomps leak and now just lap the things in and apply a little grease when pressure checking. I don't think this by itself will cause a major seize but guess it is possible but not likely. Any decent tech will check out all the possible issues and then reset the carb to ensure it is running well and within spec.
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You are welcome old boy:thumbup:
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From the damage, it looks like it has been seizing over e period of time and then failed really badly. There is a lot of aluminium sludge around that bottom end and that usually means that the ring has stayed mobile in the groove and the aluminium transfer has been abraded off the bore. A big mess and unusual to have scoring on the inlet side as well.
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And bloody strange that the rest of the world see to want to live here.....that I just don't understand but there again, I think I see the reasons:sneaky2:
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It is possible the valve got tight in its guide when standing and took out the lobe. The attachments would probably work on a McCulloch powerhead or you may find a non runner with the part intact and repair your unit.
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Pressure and Vacuum check to ensure all rubber parts and jointing faces are sealing fully, fuel line and filter, carb diaphragms/metering arm/gauze filter, finally a tach tune to make sure the saw is revving correctly. As I also mentioned - the main bearings may have a fair bit of aluminium in them so may be damaged or need flushing out.
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Have you heard of a small site called eBay:lol: You will find them on there. Many UK sellers now and GHS are stocking them now. Before you ask, the Greek guy (Leo) and also the Lithuanian guy (Max) are OK and get the piston to you in a week.
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This one looks like a metal one to me! Clutch Sprocket Bearing Fits 025 026 MS250 MS260 MS261 Stihl Chainsaw | eBay Ebay tells me I have purchased one before and they have always been metal!
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Mmmm - cynical but probably correct:thumbdown:
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The Bay, you can tell in the images if they are steel caged!
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The autotune is great when it works and is the way forward. Unfortunately you cant get in to the carbs and resolve some issues as you could on standard carbs. Sometimes people just jump on the autotune and blame that rather than diagnosing the real route cause giving it bad press. One issue of these lean burn autotune engines is that they use much less fuel and therefore much less oil and this makes for bottom end bearing issues and possible top end seizes so.......a fully synthetic decent quality oil and a 40:1 mix would be my recommendation and sounds like you are there anyway - just use a fatter oil to petrol ratio to keep the saw sweet. The technology will become more reliable as it did in the automotive world, just takes time!
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I fit the steel cage needle bearing and a new clutch kit. Tends to do 1-2 years so not too bad. I have seen old saws come in, no maintenance but perfect on clutch play, damn strange that Stihl didn't get it right on this saw:confused1: Have also had similar on 362s though....not good.
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Yes but something isn't right as some have been so bad, the drum has actually worn the end of the oiler arm off and some have stripped the arm off the oiler worm/pinion! No good just denying it as the evidence is there and telling the customer this tripe just pisses them off! I just wonder why the MS260 was fine and the 261 was so bad - no idea if the latest ones are any better!
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Feel free - one was running on just the glass fibre cage as it had no needle rollers left! Had old 026, 066 etc in with perfect needles so the issue is in the design/materials!
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I would retune both but it is only the H screw that may cause damage. I would just tach the saw to 13000 - 13500 rpm, without a tach, give the H screw a 1/4 turn anti clockwise and check the plug colour after an hours running - it should be coffee colour! I would be concerned about just putting on a dual port without any retune!
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Will box it and get an invoice out shortly. Can you PM me an email address and address to send it to? Cheers .
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Is this exhaust OK for you as it is completed now?
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Well that's a bit of a joke, every 261 I have had in has a buggered clutch needle bearing along with damage to the oiler arm and clutch drum bearing hole! Keep denying it and it will all go away:001_rolleyes:
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You suggesting I put my prices up:lol: When you are ready:thumbup:
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Well of course:001_rolleyes:, what else would I fit for the esteemed Mr B:lol:
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How many years have I been waiting:001_rolleyes: I even have a T540 undercarriage with your name on it in the workshop! When you are ready:thumbup:
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The autotune has firmware updates and various parameters can be set back to factory default. There are checks for throttle sensors, carb temperature and carb solenoids that can be done as well. It is progress but needs time to become a reliable technology as it is in most modern cars. Those manufacturers that don't use such technology, will have to do so before much longer....that's the way it is!
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That hand sanitizer gets rid of resin pretty well - it has to be the type that feels cold and evaporates to nothing but it works:thumbup: Lynx shower pads:001_rolleyes: Wuss
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The arrestor was only on the US type muffler, if you have one, the muffler will look like a shallow hollow box sticking out through the clutch cover rather than an enclosed box. I have never found a machine with the arrestor in place and this muffler is pretty uncommon!
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Just take the H screw out until the saw doesn't rev well and then turn it in so it cleans up a bit with no screaming. Test it out and see how it cuts. Ifvitvis still bad, strip the carb, clean and reassemble. This often solves carb issues on Chinese type kit!
