spudulike

Mike is a decent trader on ebay, had a fair bit off him and always good to deal with and sorts issues out unlike some:thumbup:

Nah, I used a little Shake and Vac and put the freshness back cos when your carb smells fresh your saw does too:lol:

Or ask for a deposit via paypal to cover costs, not unreasonable!

Yes, was happy with the finished look, sound and finish:thumbup:

Got a MS362 in for a muffler mod, have done a couple of these and they have been loud with quite a high pitched note so tried this type of mod and was happy with the finished job and noise.

Had an 088 Stihl in with poor running so pressure and vacuum checked it - old saw can mean bad seals or rubber bits - all good so checked out the fuel system and found the welch plug sealant had come away from the top of the plug and was floating around. Cleared this and cleaned out the H&L screws etc. Did a muffler mod that went well and just waiting for a few parts to finish.

One turn out is normal, you can use a laser thermal gun on the top end which will give you a good indication of how hot the saw is running. I have no data to help you on this though.

I have seen this on a few saws, 365s and 395s especially but Husqvarna do have a number of decomp valves with varying size exit holes and it is possible to fit one with a smaller hole but don't think Stihl do the same as I have only ever seen to ones with very small holes. The usual trick is a manly pull on the handle but don't do more then 5-6 on full choke otherwise it will flood.

We had the church bells complaints in the next village and they turn them off at night now....I know what I would have said but I have three chiming clocks in the house and a war memorial that clangs but find it quite reassuring in the night to know what time it is:thumbup: I would stick to set hours if you are going to make noise, 9-5 weekdays only and try to keep it off on typical sunny BBQ days around meal times. The suggestions of building up a sonic barrier between the mill and the surrounding residents is sensible as these things tend to get blown out of all proportion if left and life is too short to live with the aftermath of legal crap if it kicks off! A stack of hay bales would work well and not look out of place. Hard surfaces reflect sound and soft surfaces absorb it, angled surfaces will deflect so 45 degree will go upwards...or downwards! If you are keeping to work hours, have noise barriers in place and are keeping to sociable hours, it will all go your way if it kicks off. I tune saws, I now do it in my workshop with an extraction unit so the neighbours cant hear them......it works as most think I don't do it so much now:thumbup:. I cut my own wood but stick to weekdays now as I can do without one of the knobs complaining and making my life difficult. Just manage it and show good intent!

Not had a MS661 in yet but some saws do need a good tug to get the ignition to spark. The autotune 261 with autotune has a start setting that you pull it over on full choke and it will run due to the relief in the choke plate and you grab the throttle to get it back to idle. If you flick it down as you would a conventional 261, it will pull your arm off with the autotune module kicking in excessive ignition advance on starting. Some saws don't like the use of the decomp valve, I don't know if a 661 can be pulled over without it, depends on compression and ignition advance. If saws have a tendency to flood on cold start, I tend to pull them over hard with no decomp and do use a drop start , hot starts are generally a lot easier.

If it is over revving I would suggest that you have an air leak, the "New Engine" suggests a new top end and would assume the old one seized or was damaged. The machine should really be pressure and vacuum checked then have a tach put on it but they rev pretty low so it is usually pretty obvious if it is running fast. ADW is correct about the carb having a fixed high speed jet and be aware that the crank has an Internal hole and valve that lets a little air out to the needle bearing to lubricate it and has a one way valve in it so if you do pressure check it, make sure it holds vacuum and you need to plug it on the pressure test. If it has a bad air leak, you will find your L screw setting will have to be set more than one turn out and the saw will hang on to revs when the throttle is released also in bad cases, you may find the idle screw cant bring down the idle speed.

I have a bad experience on a 039, the carbs do give issues as I said but the rest is fairly standard. Good luck:thumbup:

Those saws are a pig to strip so hope the top end is OK! Make sure the metering area under the diaphragm is clear of debris that may block jets.

I have it on good authority that this scum get a hard time if they get locked up.....by the criminals that do REAL crime. A strange retribution but nice to hear:thumbup: I guess they will get caught at some stage but feel sorry for these oldies who struggle to get through life with all the normal issues that face them not helped by these criminals!

Just done a 088 Stihl that I reckon was laid up with a tank full of fuel and then used months later as it had no air leak, the carb and fuel line were fine and the carb was adjusted as it should be. It had a bad seize and was almost definitely down to old fuel so if you use your 880/088 etc and are not going to use it again for a while - DRAIN THE TANK.....you know it makes sense!

Been working on a MS150 today, the engine mounting bolts had obviously been loose for a long time and one crank mount hole was oval and the lower one was completely worn away. Managed to get an insert in the top one and a nut on the other side. The lower one was a mess so used a bigger bolt, JB weld, larger washers and an aluminium bush working on the theory that if the engine was held rigid, then there should be no movement and no wear. The saw had a muffler mod and flywheel advance and now seems pretty good. If it fails then it is time for a new lower crankcase but reckon it should be OK.

As soon as the fuel is mixed with the two stroke oil, the fuel starts to break down the oil irrespective of being in a sealed container, carb or fuel tank. If you mix fuel with oil then my advice would be to use it within 6 weeks and use it in the lawnmower after that. If you don't do this then you are depending on the saw carb being set on the rich side and not having an air leak and a bit of luck but at some stage the oil will have no lubricating effect and at that stage, you may get away with very short periods of use but a longer cut will seize your saw. So in short, best to mix smaller amounts of fuel for use that week or use Aspen as this can remain in the saw for much much longer.

Nice job and well done for putting a bit back in to the community:thumbup:

Supposed to be pretty good but not had a chance to run it through some wood yet. Nice old school build though.

Been in business full time for just over 6 months now, during that time I have just had two what I would call, flat weeks. Seems pretty good from just Arbtalk and word of mouth/repeat business. The flat weeks are usually filled up with doing my own owned saws that I refurbish for sale in the Autumn or a bit of DIY and last weeks flat spot has been ended by two saws in late last week and six in over the weekend. Bank goes sunning myself in the garden:lol: It is all working out OK so far and am happy with the levels of business so all good:thumbup:

The Stihl piston stop works on any engine with a 14mm spark plug hole. The rope - use thick recoil starter rope, turn the engine in the direction of the nut or clutch to be taken off until the piston covers the exhaust port and then feed rope in to the plug hole until you can't feed more in and then turn the engine towards TDC and it will quickly lock and then the nut can be removed. Some don't like this method as you can get rope stuck in the exhaust port or down the side of the piston or in the transfers but is reliable if done carefully knowing the pitfalls.

If the saw will idle but wont pick up to full revs which I think you are saying, you have issues with full speed fuel delivery and will need to check the fuel pipe, fuel filter and go though the carb to see where the issue is. Worth also checking the exhaust port is clear of carbon and the exhaust is free flowwing, common on really small 2T engines that aren't used flat out all the time.

You can use a piston stop or rope to lock the piston, you can use a flywheel wrench or possibly an air gun......personally, I would use a Stihl double ended plastic piston stop, unscrew the nut enough so it is proud of the crank and belt the nut with a hammer while holding the machine off the deck with the flywheel and with luck it will come off. If not, you will need a flywheel puller to pop it off but go easy, these ones are not that thick.

Those marks are nothing Matt....she will be fine:thumbup:

Been a little quiet this week so have taken the opportunity to crack through some of my own collection of kit to be repaired and sold. Had this Husky 266SG in decent shape, had it apart and all looked good, slight scoring on the piston but compression was over 150 and the bore looked good so dropped the base gasket and got well over 170 now. Pressure and vacuum check were 100%, rebuilt the Tillotson carb and reassembled. Pulled it over and it seemed quiet, it popped but would not start. Checked the carb again, new diaphragms, cleaned all the jets and still the same. It would pop but not run. Checked the ignition over and all looked good. Still the same. The machine has good compression, good spark but would not start and noticed that the saw would not flood, even if it was pulled over on full choke...this one was weird as the fuel line was fine as was the fuel filter. I then thought I would look at the muffler, I took it off and tried to start it and bingo, the muffler must have had a slug of mud or something down the outlet as a bit of carb cleaner and the compressor made it pop and cleared the shyte whatever it was. All runs fine now:thumbup: