spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Back from a week away and got a HS81 in that is like a boomerang to me, bogging and farting away but not revving out, like an old friend:001_rolleyes: 346XP in for porting, just done the owners MS200, MS201(rear handle) and 372XP.....it is infectious Also got a raft of MS200Ts on their way and a 262XP plus a Dolly 6100 for porting.....business is tough:sneaky2:
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Not got much experience on 075 oilers but....... 1) Check the bar oiler hole is free 2) flush the tank out with fuel and make sure there is no bio oil gloop at the bottom. 3)Extract the oil pickup pipe and filter and make sure it is free flowing and the filter is free of gloop. 4) make sure the pinion is in good order and the gear is free to turn and the oil pump is the same 5) Make sure the oil-way to the bar mount is free of gloop and woodchip. 6) Make sure the oil tank breather is clear and allows air in to the tank. Just make sure the oiler pinion and pump are in a condition that the drive picks up from the rotation of the crankshaft and spins freely. You can also try a thinned down oil mix but is really ever only needed in damn cold conditions or if there is a blockage.
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The bearings are always fitted in to the cases first and then the crank is pushed in to one case and then the other case is pushed on to the assembly. I wouldn't like to fit both bearings to the crank and then fit the cases......not the way it is done! I have never had the need to freeze and heat parts. They are a tight fit but not THAT tight. You are using the outer race to push the bearing in and using a press/vice/G clamp to fit them?
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In general and not TS400 related: - 1) Ensure the bearings are fitted the correct way round, some have a sealed end and these need to be correct as they can bind on the crank and may stop the bearing being lubricated correctly. 2) Push the bearings home 100%, it is easy to leave a bearing slightly proud of the inner crankcase and it will bind on the crankshaft. Some bearings push hard in to a seat, others are flush with the casting.Lube the bearings with two stroke oil on fitting. 3) De-stress the bearing by clouting it hard with a copper mallet. You can use steel but go careful in case you damage the crankshaft ends. If you do the above, the bearings should be loose and easy to turn. They always stiffen a little once new seals are fitted but this is normal! If you have done all this then:confused1:
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I would normally check the bearings and only replace them if they had signs of wear or the machine had been run after seizure dumping aluminium powder on the bearings.
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Check that there is a letter (A or B) stamped on the flat part of the cylinder by the plug hole. It there isn't then it is a Chinese top end. The cylinder will bear the Mahle name near the transfer casting on, I believe, the flywheel side. Make sure the saw has a priming bulb and the newer double legged muffler support located on the upper dog mount and the front oil tank mount! If it doesn't have these, it is the older 45cc machine. Compression should be circa 160-170psi on a decent engine. The carb manifold should have a metal clamp. Make sure the saw starts 3-5 pulls, make sure it idles and revs out OK, expect a little bogging when cold, make sure the revs drop to a steady idle when the throttle is snapped shut. The 346 clutches can get a bit rattly but isn't terminal, make sure the overall condition is OK.
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I would say most would do it finger tight then put a wrench on it to nip it up so it is seated. There is probably a spec in the manual but can't say I have ever needed it!
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About all you can do is chase the thread out and if it fails, use a helicoil or insert!
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Part number 1140 350 0804, the 1140 means it is for the 362 but this - Tank Housing for Stihl MS311, MS391 - 1140 350 0804 | Stihl MS362 Chainsaw Spares shows it is also used on the 311 and 391!
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Just fix the 230. If the top end is sound, it will probably be a carb issue....just need to find a good tech:sneaky2:
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Thought you would like it, they get a bit saucy with porting:thumbup:
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The 346 was just over 14000, pretty conservative but no chance of destruction. It would take the standard 14,700 and probably more!
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Of course, Barrie is correct in what he says. Blanking off the pump does cause this flat spot issue that needs a bit of careful tuning out to mask it, after all, Stihl didn't fit an accelerator pump for no reason and the pump is there to give the saw a bit of grunt from low revs! I have done this mod, there are potential risks in doing it but if done well, it does make a bad running saw in to a good one again IF the pump is the route cause of the fault! I stopped doing this mod and now simply replace the accelerator pump giving the saw a return to how it should be. If I ever had the repair fail then the blanking off of the welch plug would be the next option as it will get the saw useable again even with slightly less ZIP off the line.
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TT20K - it has PP3 batteries, easy to change and is wireless although it comes with a lead if necessary but have never needed to use it on all saws I have tached. The UK guy will actually send you the bit of kit and then invoice you, very trusting! Tiny-Tach: Contact us ITCO The price was something like £75, expensive but for a tool, but I use it on pretty much every saw I service and is a good investment in my opinion. The refresh is good, it will read to 20Krpm, it is wireless and can hold maximum revs and has a few other features. It is my choice as it is what I use, others may be just as good!
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https://tinytach.com/handheld.php Very good products - had mine for around 4 years and been great!
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Sounds like it is either running too rich and not burning the fuel or the needle valve is leaking/metering arm too high causing too much fuel being delivered to the saw. Strip the carb, check it out, pressure check it and try again.
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I did warn you, most paints don't resist petrol and cleaning solvents too well.
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I usually find the smaller harder revving saws are more difficult to save. The 346 tends to take the top end out and score but slower saws ....MS660 etc are usually fine.
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Diesel only burns under much higher compression. My experience is that the Aspen will burn along with the combustible elements of the diesel leaving something resembling paraffin to exit the muffler.
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Trained Obese Woodworm with 1.5" depth restraining:lol:
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Been using Kodi for about a year on a Sumvision Cyclone X4 TV box. It is pretty good for films as that is my main interest. I personally find Istream and Phoenix are among the best free film streamers. Not really done much on streaming TV
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When stuffers break up.....it is bad!!! Close to dead!
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Time for a muffler mod and part of that can be extricating the rattling part:thumbup:
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About time Barrie, you been pissin about with that boat of yours in this hot weather:001_rolleyes::lol: Nice photos - thought you may like to air them again:001_tt2:
