spudulike

Not heard of any issues with the autotune saws I have ported, I usually am taking an issue saw back to reliability!!! :confused1:

Not sure about me porting it after all I only managed to get a 30% improvement on a saw that was already wearing a jungle muffler. Not much really:sneaky2: Reckon the 3/8 will be faster on a short bar, bigger chip, deeper cut etc. The 0.325 is faster on sub 60cc saws and is marginal on 60cc. The 8 pin is a good idea on 16 and possibly 18" bars.

The hottest part of the engine is the exhaust side. It is uncommon for a piston to seize around to the inlet side and as others have said, removal of the muffler is the easiest way of inspection, removal of the cylinder is more complete!

The compression reading is pants, 90psi isn't enough for combustion. Pick the saw up, hold the starter and let it fall to full extension and time the drop. Probably more accurate than your gauge! If it is actually running but not well and there is no scoring on the piston, chances are you will waste your money on a new cylinder!

Will the saw rev out? If it does and it just wont idle then I would suspect some sort of binding in the clutch area or a busted clutch spring. I would try to keep the revs up at fast idle and then drop them down gradually and see if the chain will stop at a slightly fast idle. 880 do get issues with oilers which can cause issues. Worth pulling the drum off and cleaning/get some oil around the bearing etc and see what gives. It may just need a carb tweak, you could have developed an air leak or just needs a bit of sorting in the clutch area.

Sorry, never took it that you meant I would make a balls up of it. Will PM you the costs.

Well I have done more than I can care to remember. The compression goes up to circa 200psi, they rev that bit harder, have more torque and go in the cut. I would guess the best people to ask are the people on this forum that I have done them for. Most find that my service and porting on an MS200 makes for a solid reliable machine and they get good value. The 200 is one of those machines that you do a lot of small bits that ends up to a good end result!

In what respect? generally a hole in the outer casing.

Another four MS200s have landed, just done two last week, I should have made a note of how many I have sorted this year:thumbup:

You missed the rubber band in the bacon roll! And my prices change with how old my customers think I am:sneaky2:

Bugger.....is Mendip Jon back:lol:

A carb is a carb TBH. The carb pulls fuel from the tank using the pump diaphragm which is the brown thin diaphragm and not the black one. The carb is a Tillotson HL and at one time or the other an extra pump stack was fitted on the carb on some saws to pull fuel from the tank more efficiently. Try cleaning the carb down, trying to start the saw and then strip the carb again and see where the fuel has got to and this will indicate what is going on. One place to take a look at is the filter under the small single screw cover on the lower bowl, this may be blocked and was sintered metal on the older saws. Some of these carbs had a screw that you can remove and crank the saw to see how many pulls would pull fuel through but don't know if this was one of them. Here is mine - you can see the screw on the top of the carb!

I deduce from the eBay user name....they may be:sneaky2:

I have heard the Stihl assembly staff on the production line like a bit of pork scratching and a stein of Weiss bier to motivate them.....the mystery deepens:sneaky2:

Hey....my customers give me cakes...they get working saws:confused1: Saying that...you never gave me cake:sneaky2:

It depends on the saw, generally between £150 and 170 and it includes a full and deep service, pressure/vacuum check, carb strip and check and a good clean up if necessary. If the saw is a wreck, I may charge a little extra but only if it looks like it has resided in the Grand Union Canal for a while! I have saved many from near seize and returned them fully modified.

That's OK, just bitchin:sneaky2:

My opinion is very much like Barries (GardenKit) we both come from a similar generation where you do things right. If a sprocket is shagged, it gets changed, if it is borderline, you ask....simple - yours sounds .......shagged! The bar and chain, if they are fitted which is rare due to the nature of my business model, they are checked and sharpened if in a state. If the owner requests the B&C to be checked and/or replaced I request which type etc. If the bar and chain are in reasonable fettle then I leave it as many pros would hang you if you touched their chain with a grinder! I do a couple of types of service, the typical £70 compression check, inspection, clean up, tune and back out or the £120 full strip down, pressure/vacuum/compression checks, fuel system overhaul, recoil overhaul, chain brake overhaul.........and lots more. Most pro users take the second option and it works. Most home owners take the cheapest option not understanding why a 15 year old pro saw they have got of ebay should ever need a full strip and inspection:001_rolleyes: I go a lot on recommendation when I spend my money and I seem to be doing things right from the repeat business and referrals I get! Your saw should have had a new sprocket if it is that worn and a note about the bar and chain being badly worn!

I like my Echo kit, the only kit I haven't modified and always works as it should:thumbup:

If you like the 346 then the 357 is the next logical choice, feels like a big 346.................. or just port the 346:thumbup:

Looks like Arbtalk may have fixed it rather than Matt:001_tt2:

Yeah, makes men out of boys:lol:

What.....Ghost-busters:confused1:

If it sounds like an intermittent rev limiter then check the leads that run around the top AV mount just in front of the air box, they often chafe! An air leak will tend to make the saw rev to high, hold on to descending revs and cause uneven or fast idle. A BIG airleak will cause a real boggy saw and will possibly give the symptoms you have.

Take an old spark plug and bend the end electrode out at a 45 degree angle to enlarge the gap some. Stick it in the plug cap, earth on the cylinder and give it a big pull. If it sparks then the coil is most likely OK!