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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Just caught up on this, the early TCMs had a restrictive exhaust, the later ones had a much needed upgrade. If the saw has the flock type air filter then try the mesh one. A muffler mod will also help the engine breath but would leave it at that as the later saws were a fair bit better than the early ones that had a multitude of issues.
  2. Most fuel tanks will form a pressure and is caused by the fuel getting warm or screwing the fuel cap in. Tank breathing can be tested using the pressure/vacuum tester. The rest of it may be an air leak, worn carb (have you checked the throttle shaft tightness in the carb body?), or just old rubber carb parts. Always thought the 285CD was a gutsy saw!
  3. Yup, that's the one...haven't lost my marbles yet! Never personally liked the "Cu" swear word!
  4. There was a day when using that sort of language would get an immediate ban!
  5. Just split the clutch/gearbox drive part from the engine and you may find that the drum has sheared from the sprocket or the clutch has disintegrated. If you can't do it, take it to you local fella who can. Not a massive job and worth it as these machines are generally pretty good.
  6. Probably the clutch has corroded and stuck through lack of use! Just strip it down and get it fixed, no biggie!
  7. Normally it is a piece of clear pipe with one of those Stihl breather screws inserted around an inch from each end of the pipe.
  8. I once got a Zomax saw in with a few others I got to refurbish. From what I remember, the top cover had charred around the spark plug, the starter gear was appalling, the AVs were as soft as poop but the engine seemed to run OK. You do get what you pay for although sometimes you can get lucky and get something better than the small cost you paid should have given you.
  9. Straighten it and then use a couple of pop rivets to hold it in place. They often fall out like this!
  10. Ca' Marrone Rosso IGT Puglia Appassimento We pick discounted ones and then get the extra 25% off and at £5 per bottle is damn good. The other one we like is called "The Duke" and is a very smooth full bodied Spanish. Usually £8, often.discounted to £6 so £4.50 with the 25% but wasn't discounted this time.
  11. The fuel is being pulled up through the fuel filter, if the fuel filter is fully submersed in fuel, no air will get pulled up UNLESS the fuel line is holed!!
  12. Hope you purchased 6 bottles to get your 25% off! We usually hit it hard when the offers are on at Tesco. Got a few bottles of a cheeky Italian this week....very nice to.
  13. The 084 coils are not available now and you may find that other parts are also EOL although some are shared. There are a couple of top ends, one with an anvil clamp for the muffler and the other is conventional bolt and nut. Spares would worry me. An 088/MS880 may be a better option.
  14. The C1Q standard kit won't quite do -cost me an hour or two trying!!! Believe me, there are differences!
  15. You can remove the carb and remove the top and bottom covers and see where there is fuel and where there is not! Lack of fuel if carb related is probably the choke not closing or the metering arm being too low. Lack of fuel can also be caused by a massive air leak in the crankcases, seen it where the cylinder has become loose but is much less common. Personally I usually just go through the carb and clean, inspect and replace anything that looks iffy and it is rare the saw doesn't fire after this.
  16. Just the thing for today's weather!
  17. These are the old school checks and very reliable, you can check the front of the piston through the exhaust port or just lift the saw by the recoil starter and see if it holds for 2-4 seconds at TDC on each compression stroke. Spark is checked by earthing the plug on the cylinder and pulling the saw over fast. Fuel is checked by pulling the saw 10 times with the choke on and seeing if the plug is damp after this. The most likely issue is with the metering arm being set a little low or the diaphragm going a bit hard. It is very possible that the piston may have seized or partially nipped up. Coils tend to be pretty reliable.
  18. I am Spud and here is my photo.......
  19. spudulike

    M tronic

    The bad bit about Mtronic is lack of idle adjustment so if the saw gets a bit of wear and the idle falls off, you can't adjust it. The good bit is the fact they constantly react to the changing conditions and usage plus they do offer a bit of protection if the saw develops an air leak. Maintaining the autotune saws can be more hit and miss as you don't have the luxury of screws to fiddle with. The 461 is a decent machine, similar to the 661 inside.
  20. Looks like something Matty picked up from a dude down the local after a few pints.....or is that too many
  21. Very generally, you can usually clean the bore on 660s and get away with a quality piston rather than the £200 OEM pot and piston.....done a fair few now.
  22. Have you let the Mtronic set itself by following the manual. If not, do it, if you have then take it back to where it came from as these machines, when new, shouldn't do this.it is relatively common on older machines but not so on new ones.
  23. Just tach around 1,000rpm lower than the max factory recommended and all will be about where it should be. Tach with the bar usually used on the saw. As said earlier - the figures you were using was where maximum power is developed and not maximum revs under no load.
  24. Some of this depends on the financial backup you have. If you are leaving a job and have got a good financial safety net then it makes life easier than going from a full time job with no savings and expecting to make the same £££.
  25. Second that and you can often pull out the impulse line and then the machine will idle fast and possibly seize if left unchecked! Seen a few with mounts and impulse lines pulled out.

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