spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Shouldn't be too bad, new Stihl bearings, aftermarket seals, gasket set, new meteor piston etc. Just duck and five between aftermarket and OEM parts. Just call it a hobby!!
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If that is a new Stihl drum and bearing, the crankshaft is worn. You can measure the diameter of the shaft where the bearing runs and then where it doesn't. Of the difference is over around 0.2mm, you have a real issue with the crank.
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A chance to learn more about saws?
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Pleasure, brought it back from the brink, all good:thumbup:
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The big difference is the 357XP, the 560 has nice balance and is improved nicely with porting and a muffler mod.....both have their attributes. Depends on what you can lay your hands on and how much you want to spend!
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Do I know you:lol: Thanks Martin:thumbup:
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5.5KG on the 357 without a bar and chain. Sounds like your mechanic wants to tune your 880!! generally limited coils don't limit the performance as the saw is unlikely to pull anything like 11Krpm in the cut as the saw usually falls down to where it makes full power when under load. Think he may have been on Google:001_rolleyes:
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Or a 560XP, will pull 18" with ease!
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The 357XP is bigger by 10cc and is also a dream to port, not quite as fast pickup but still good. How does this grab you...... [ame] [/ame]
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TBH, I just cut firewood for my burner so limited knowledge of different types of cutting but the 346XP LE goes mad with porting. It has to be one of the fastest picking up saws that you can get once done. The fastest of blips of the throttle hits 12Krpm and they are very capable with good AV. Hardest part is finding a decent one! So if you are coppicing 4-6" diameter wood, this saw would make the job damn enjoyable:thumbup:
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I think he has run for cover. Porting suits some and not others. The guys that really like it are forestry guys who cut tonnes of timber per day and get paid on volume. The climbers like the fact they can do more of a reduction and not resort to a larger saw. Then there are the lads who just want a faster saw! I always point out that the saws should be for personal use and not for employees.
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It probably just burnt off the remaining fuel in the cylinder and that was it. If you take the carb off and take the covers off, you should be able to tell where the issue is as there will be no petrol in the cavities. Did you take the needle out?
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I have done a few now, the owners were happy. It is one of those saws where you make lots of small adjustments rather than real big changes.
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Here is my universal response - If it is a primary saw for daily use to make you money to live then only use OEM Stihl. If it is to cut a bit of firewood occasionally or for a back up saw then the parts will probably be fine however I have found the AM fuel caps to be suspect on some occasions especially on old tanks - if they are cheap then try one and see what gives. If you lose one day of work through cheap parts failing then they weren't so cheap after all!
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It all depends on how you like to cut. I like to lean on saws and not have to lift the saw/bar up to stop bogging. You may be able to stick a 30" bar on it but it will be awfully boggy in the cut and probably need lifting off the cut to maintain speed and chip clearance. I just find that sort of cutting tiring, annoying and frustrating! You could try a narrow kerf or semi skip but the inevitable result will be purchasing a MS660/661/395XP and do the job properly.
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Not done much on 880s TBH, I am guessing they are already big and powerful but rarely used. Never seem a big bore for them and don't particularly like cheap Cylinder kits on saws that kick out that much power and will cost £££££ to repair if the kit fails. I tend to service them and get them back to scratch that way - generally they have oiler issues or have seized through old fuel!
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They used the Zama carb on the 365 and the Walbro on the 372 but the Zama will do the job, just make sure it is tuned once done but it will do the job and work!
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Choice is always the customers prerogative, the workshop is full of saws, I am generally pretty busy all the time - I have never advertised.....sort of says it all:thumbup:
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As a matter of interest, many of the saws I get in for porting have worn brake bands and missing chain catchers etc. These are known safety features and should be checked to make sure they are serviceable regularly!! The point I am making is that the saw may work faster after modification but the safety systems are also returned to full working condition. Also, I tach the saw to WITHIN the manufacturers maximum limit (albeit closer to the maximum than normal) as it ensures engine protection so you have a more powerful saw, operating within the manufacturers parameters with serviced safety features....that's my defence and it is always the users choice to modify or not for competition or daily use, domestic or commercial! I would say that most of my "tuning" customers find a ported saw safer than non ported as it does heavier work using a lighter saw, less fatigue on the body and less time actually cutting!
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The guy was raving about how good it was when he picked up his other saw so there you go!
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It is a relatively easy swap, you need the cylinder, piston, new inlet manifold and clamp but the rest is shared. I would recommend the 372 OEM Husqvarna top end or the Meteor one if you can bet it. Make sure the main bearings are smooth like silk, if the cylinder has been removed, crap can get in the bearings so take care. If the saw is a secondary one then you could go Hyway but personally avoid Chinese cylinders if I can. Do make sure the saw is pressure vacuum checked or if you can't do that, set the carb on one turn out on the H & L screws and if you cant get an even idle without turning the L screw more then 1/4 turn then worry about air leaks! I have done a few now and turned out well.
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Blimey....do we all step out at this point:blushing: Spark arrestor - leave it out unless working in arid conditions likely to catch fire very easily.....bracken and the like!
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Buy the rim, if you can't get the chain on then YES, you need an extra link. Some will and some wont!
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Probably why it is overheating:001_rolleyes:
