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Those aftermarket coils can be pretty crap at best. I think form memory, a lot of Stihls use the same coil and just fit other HT leads to suit different machines so perhaps a MS200T one would fit as the HT cable can be removed and swapped. On the flywheel key, I would expect the magnets would align with the coil at around 10 degrees in advance to TDC. It is unusual for this to not be the case but have seen some strange exceptions up to 180 degrees out! The difficulty will be if the key has just slipped a few degrees out as it will be more difficult to find. Again from memory, I think the 026 flywheel is removed by the screw in puller which makes pulling off the flywheel a breeze. The 026 kill wires can rub around the top AV mount giving some annoying HT issues. I usually try a second user OEM coil from the bay rather than the Chinese poop. More reliable.

Stihl 020T - 1996 - 2002 It was that good the MS200T was introduced which was petty much the same saw with some fancy transfer work and a new carb: - 2002 - 2012 and here we are some 13 years later.........still using the saws deliberating the best top handled saw......er...the fact that they are still very sought after speaks volumes.

Does the choke mechanism close the choke fully? Does the "Fast idle/ half choke position kick the throttle open as it should? Other than that, it is possible the saw is running a bit lean but difficult to tell without seeing it. I would have thought that the saw wouldn't run well if the H&L screws were well out of adjustment. Are you just missing the saw "pop" when on choke and then flooding it.

If you do it yourself, use a soft nylon bristle brush with no discernable central boss...see below. Use flexible rods and always turn clockwise so the rods don't come undone. The Victorian chimney will have a few bends in it as the upstairs bedroom fireplaces impact on the straightness but it should be OK if done right. This type of thing: -

Atomic planes may happen...electric commercial planes, not very likely.

Nice and quiet in Suffolk, glad you have a plan and sounds like you are on the up, employment and all.

The normal settings on the H&L screw on the carb is 1 turn out on each but 1&1/4 turns out is a decent place to start and then turn the H screw in until the saw picks up well and revs well but doesn't scream at the top revs. Glad you are making progress.

There will normally be a removeable baffle plate in the top of the stove so open the door and see if there is a plate either bolted, screwed or just registered in to the stove. This plate should be removed and then the flue swept. I usually work out the rough height of the chimney and then translate that in to the number of rods needed. If there is an additional damper in the flue above the chimney, that needs to be removed and is usually a case of holding the damper plate and rotating the handle so it can be withdrawn through the plate and flue. I have had three stoves and one plate was bolted, the other two were Stovax and they were registered on the rear wall of the stove and two lugs on both sidewalls.

Those 361s get quite lively when you gut the muffler!

FIne, it is an oil and not a solvent.

That is horrible and that big groove above the exhaust port isn't helping compression.

I would turn the heat pump off for any periods of 2 days and upwards as long as it isn't in the winters worst weather. The amount of electricity a HP will use over two days is more than an initial ramp up after being turned of however we do have a wood burner. Heat pumps don't like flow temps of under 25 degrees, our night time temp is 26 degrees and it has remained reliable. Our HP is pretty old but a rough COP is 3-3.5 based on average UK gas figures and our power consumption - we cant see how much the heating uses so have estimated our yearly use based on average UK use plus our previous house usage.

Some neighbours are really not worth the breath of trying to talk with them. I know as I have had two point five now and the current one is "on the spectrum"....according to most of the people in the village. If you haven't had one of these "Pieces" living next to you, you really don't understand how frustrating it is. One suggestion - drill all the branches anywhere near the border and stick .22 blanks in them!! May seem excessive but these sort of people really should be made to live together in one town or village where they can make each others lives a pure misery by bitching at each other incessantly.

Yup, I run a Rover Mower and chipper both with the Locin engine, seems OK to me.