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Forest2Furniture

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Everything posted by Forest2Furniture

  1. My chainsaws were in a lockable cabinet called a workshop, with 2 padlocks and mortice lock, they cut the hand brake cable to the vehicle blocking the door and dragged it out of the way, cut hinge pins out, ripped outer door and inner door off and walked off with chainsaws, bars, chains etc to the tune of £7.5k. The police response was, "it's not something we'd be bothered about but you can have a crime number" So, clearly a lockable cupboard doesn't make it harder to steal!
  2. Cutting down on where they can be sold would help. You can't sell a shotgun on internet sites nor at car boot fairs, same should be for chainsaws. If we can take away the easy access of secondhand gear, you'll take away a good majority of the theft, not all granted.
  3. That's where it seems to be coming from, I'll try your advice and in the mean time I'll go back to using the old faithful 660. I've sent you an email about sorting out my 880. Thanks
  4. The reason I know it's coming from the join is because I stripped it down cleaned it off so it was all nice and shiny like new last week.
  5. Thanks
  6. Wish I could buy back either of my nicked 880,660,461 or 230's for £50
  7. My 3 year old ms461which is a lovely saw and my daily go to has a problem, it's leaking oil from the join at the front where the oil reservoir is. Any useful advice
  8. I'll post photos later
  9. Thanks, as I seem to have quite a few I'm going to experiment cutting veneer as well.
  10. I've got some Sweet Chestnut burls/burrs, are they best left as a whole or milled into slabs. This is one of the smaller ones:
  11. I felled some Sweet Chestnut at the weekend with some large burl/burr on them 36" x 24" x 16" Is it best to try and sell the whole thing or slice it into 1.5" - 2" thick slabs for table tops. This is one of the smaller ones
  12. For reference I look after a 17.5 are Sweet Chestnut woodland in North Nottinghamshire just within the boundary of Sherwood Forest. Some areas have seen a management plan in the past but most seem to have been self set. I'm currently felling some big stuff for milling.
  13. I've had my 130 since late 2017 and to be fair had no problems setting it up apart from tracking the lenox blades. Once I went onto ripper37 never had to worry about tracking. The clutch started to show signs of failing about 6 days before the warranty ran out so I contacted Chris and he sent replacement FOC along with a new throttle cable. I suggest you tell him about lack of battery as the SHOULD be one. I think the build quality has dropped since they have become popular.
  14. I've run 48" bars on my 880 without the need for an auxiliary oiler. With the first sugi bar I had from Rob I greased the nose sprocket as per instructions, this however caused dust to get trapped and seized the sprocket solid, Rob kindly sent me a replacement nose sprocket free of charge. I don't bother greasing the nose anymore and since then have had no problems. Take the bar off and run the saw head with the oiler turned up full, the oil should p**s out, if it doesn't then there's a problem with the oil pump or it could be something as simple as the oil pick-up bar not being correctly located in the groove on the chain sprocket drum.
  15. I know this is going to be a stupid question but given the agro of building your own trailer and having it tested etc would it not be better to buy from woodland mills?
  16. Only just seen this and I suppose by now you've bought your mill. For the record I don't buy blades from woodlands but use ripper37 instead. I had problems fitting the ones supplied by woodlands, no such problems with the the ripper37, old band off new one on with no need to alter the tracking.
  17. Probably seen the shipping manifesto says Woodchuck and customs think it's some kind of animal!
  18. PM sent. I'm in North Nottinghamshire just down from junction 28M1
  19. Can you get hold of spare parts for these, I've bent the hook on mine and although I've managed to straighten it, it's not as strong as it used to be.
  20. I bought one a few years ago when you first had them in, brilliant bit of kit especially useful for turning logs on the mill. It's always the next thing to be loaded after the chainsaw. I'll be placing my order for a new one too.
  21. Depends what size saw you're intending to use, having done chainsaw milling for over 10 years now I wouldn't want to use anything smaller then a ms460. You need the power to cut along the grain constantly for a few minutes, chainsaws are designed to run for short bursts of full power.
  22. Thanks, A tad over 10'.
  23. I don't create and sell much now, mainly because I got fed up with people wanting me to make to their c**p designs. Now I mill and sell the boards either green, air dried or coming soon kiln dried.
  24. Finally got around to milling some Oak I vaguely bought earlier in the year. Not sure why I bought it as I already have 200 cu/ft drying in the barn but if I didn't buy it, it was heading to the firewood guys. Got some nice boards so far.
  25. My latest bill from Stephen Cull for 10 blades x 1 1/4" for my HM130, think they're the same size as the HM126 was £259.20 inc VAT & delivery, next day delivery. I've also had blades sharpened by him, again fast turn around and good service. What's your thinking behind using 1 3/8" blades?

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