doobin

Yes, and if you need more power direct mount the bucket. Or use a ripper tooth! (although good luck hiring one 🙄)

This is that bit that so many people just can't grasp. Every time you do ANYTHING in the first world-drive to the shops, have a shower, eat dinner or post on Arbtalk, you are releasing CO2 from the past that has lain undisturbed for hundreds of millions of years. They witter on about 'oh, can't we just use wind power? And electric cars. And biomass!' Take biomass. Lets say you can get around 44 mw/h per ha from sugar beet biogas. That's about 158,400 megajoules of energy. Potential yields of biofuels per ha p.a. - Forest Research WWW.FORESTRESEARCH.GOV.UK Extremely approximate guideline figures of potential yields of different forms of biofuel per hectare per annum Petrol is around 35 megajoules per litre. So to fill up your 50 litre petrol tank, that's 1750 megajoules. That ha can fill the tank just 90 times, much less when you take into account all the inneficiencies of the harvesting and production costs. These are very rough, back of an envelope calculations, it's probably way worse than this. Fossil fuels are a giant bank of millions of years of sunlight, across vast acreages. They aren't being replaced, and we don't currently have any alternatives except nuclear that can match our current consumption. I don't have a clue what the answer is. Nuclear looks to be the only option to me.

I've been thinking about getting one of those and mounting it onto a spare platform for a MuckTruck as it happens. The engine above the drum type would lend themselves to such an application.

Free market, innit 🙄 Global economy and all that. Do you buy all your screws in packs of ten from the local hardware shop, to 'support the local economy'? Or do you buy them in boxes of a hundred from a big mail order centre? They all come from China anyway. Our whole ****************ing 'economy' is built upon the arbitrage of cheap third world labour, leaving a ton of 'disposable' income free to support massive bubbles in the stock market and housing. That may well be coming to an end. However, I'm not about to shoot myself in the foot by paying triple to 'support the UK' when the average house price here is fourteen times the average local wage. I have to do what's best for me to claw my way up to a similar standard of living as a ****************ing postman from the eighties, with their free council house and gold plated pension. I don't need to be paying for the MD of Greenmech's foreign holidays, or his salesmen and their brand new pickups. I fully accept that backup should at least exist, unlike a lot of the Chinese distributors- but I personally don't need backup on something as simple as an engine, drum unit and a pair of vee belts and wheels. As soon as it all changes and I can afford to pay three times the cost for a comparable chipper yet still afford an honest house on an honest days wage, then I'll be beating your door down.

To be fair, i always thought Ifor were like Land Rovers- agricultural and ovverated, with idiots paying silly money secondhand. Then I bought a new GH1054BT, and it's just superb. I had nothing but trouble with Indespension trailers, but this thing is faultless. Or at least, it would be, if Ifor and the dealer had done the assembly and the PDI properly. Leaf spring nuts were only just threaded onto the nylock bit on one side, leading to a spring coming loose and trashing two tyres before I noticed! The dealer didn't want to know, said it was something I'd done- until I sent them a screenshot of the email I'd sent after towing the trailer back, saying what a nice trailer but please check your PDI process as I'd just had to lock the brake rod nut on before it parted company 🙄 So yes, trading on the name somewhat, but this GH1054 is still a very good trailer.

I've got a laurel hedge reduction coming up, not much of a drag but I will trial the wee chipper and mini high tip dumper and report back. Should be ideal- the guy in the hedge can pass me the branches down and I just guide them straight into the chipper. I'm almost enjoying a bit of gardening- makes a change from the norm. This was a regular job from yesterday. Hedge out (around forty metres worth) and dispatched back to yard for green waste grab in 7 tipper truck trips, then two loads of stumps and a quick rake up with the digger rake. Sod chipping that lot- it'll all go in one green waste grab. Obviously would be differerent if I had a chipper I could machine feed, but of us were done by two o clock. That included tensioning off the chain link fence, cutting out the bit behind the hedge (to be replaced by a squash wall) and bundling that all onto his fire ready for the evening's festivities.

I'd be interested to know how good the feed rollers actually are. It's a lot of money for a little machine. 50-60 days a year is a fair bit. If you are generally chipping into the back of your truck, then I'd invest in a reasonably small road tow- should be plenty about that were built small to keep them under 750kg, might be going slightly cheap as of the 15th and trailer freedom day 🤣 You're certainly right to change if what you are doing is damaging to your health. But look at the bigger picture. Money invested in (quality) machinery is as good as money in the bank. 60 days is five days a month. Hand digging is damaging to my back. So I have a micro digger on 5 years finance. It costs me £230 a month, and I really don't care that I might only use it one day in a month, because on that day that I do use it it covers the finance cost. Five days a month? You'd be mad not to get a proper small chipper IMHO.

It's 'LTS'- a slightly dodgy 'brand' who I think have gone bust. Your standard, run of the mill eBay importer of Chinese tat. I was much happier paying £800 plus VAT for it than £2.5k for the same thing from another brand! It's also got a swivel chute from an MDT (I think) chipper- courtesy of another member on here a while back who bought the chute as a spare part and reported that it would fit. So she owes me £1k plus VAT in total. I've welded some strap down points to it (nightmare to transport otherwise) and the little carabiner you see welded to the chute usually holds a 13mm spanner to unbolt the spout- although didn't need it after closing the anvil gap. I went for that design because it was the narrowest, and the whole point of a wee chipper is that it fits into the back garden. With a strop around the front drawbar it's a lot easier to heave it about with two of you. The tow behind type are for big gardens with a homeowner who wants to play with a lawn tractor as far as I can see. Basically you want the larger 15hp Loncin engine option. Stay away from Briggs- they are shit. Not sure what's on the market currently- what have you been looking at?

After giving the blades a tickle I closed the anvil gap to around 5mm. Much improved- finer chip, couldn’t stall it even forcing some pretty big bits in- twelve foot lengths of hazel etc that were around 4” at the start. It chewed them staight up. Obviously nowhere near as fast as a 6" tow behind, but it's a wee chipper. On these garden tidy jobs the drag is a bitch. It made such a difference to park the chipper at the tree and guide the stems straight in, especially when dealing with long brambles and multiple little stems. Two of us were forcing armfuls of around a dozen 1" bits in at a time, and it didn't really slow the motor at all. The anvil gap has really made a difference. Even if the client didn’t want the chip for chickens, I think I’d use the mini chipper again and a high tip mini dumper to run it out to the truck. It did self feed to an extent, but if there was a bushy bit or a lot of leverage hanging out of the top it wouldn't- can't see that there's any way round that on these kind of machines, and if I wasn't feeding it I'd be dragging- and I know which I'd prefer. Can anyone recommend a supplier of decent blades for these generic machines? 31cm x 5.5cm blades.

Bodging of the highest order, but good results. I’ll order some ceramic roloc discs (I quite like the ‘feel’ of the roloc backing pad compared to a grinding wheel) and also knock up an mdf honing wheel for it. But good results in under a minute. yes I know all about grinding dust in the ways, but the mill is there to save me time, it’s fairly well protected and I’ll clean it.

Burns quick but as said rots just as quick also! Wouldn't be my choice for a firewood crop and if cordwood would want to[ be cheap.

I reckon that’s what’s happened here!

Ooh aargh, that it be laad.

Result!

I reckon I might have been being a bit simple. Dug the makita out and had a closer look- it's out of oil. I think the stop-start jerking motion of the chain may have been as the overload sensor (which is very sensitive when starting up) kicked in and out. I've dressed the bar, oiled it up and cleaned the battery and trigger contacts. Fingers crossed.

Two years is all I got out of mine, occasional use. Seems like brushes are on way out, but of course it’s brushless!

Quite liked my Makita twin 18v saw, not too impressed with it dying after only light work however. Has anyone tried both that and the M18 fuel saw, so as to be able to comment upon which is better? Not interested in any other brands thanks.

Local saw mill gave me normal money for one similar a couple of years back if it helps.

£3800?? And it still uses files that go blunt competitively quickly and are expensive? I don’t see them selling many. heat from a grinding wheel is taken care of via the use of CBN, it’s not even an issue with the right abrasive.

I’ll argue. What bit of chainsaw milling pertains to using one in the conventional manner? It’s totally different. just crack on.

There’s a bloke on another thread here recently having problems with one.

And a pair of leaf grabbers. I laughed when my lad said he wanted a set, but they really save some time. https://www.screwfix.com/p/spear-jackson-garden-tidy-leaf-grabber/95262?kpid=95262&ds_kid=92700031520370519&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249410&msclkid=3ad6b0f9a9931a06bfccd18f6a52535e&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MPX_UK_SHP_MAN_S_ALL_Outdoor %26 Garden&utm_term=4583726538209462&utm_content=S - Garden Hand Tools&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=3ad6b0f9a9931a06bfccd18f6a52535e&gclsrc=3p.ds

It's not a marginal cost difference, Stihl is double the price. I'm a pro user and Rotatech chains are fine, although I wouldn't use the bars.

The cheapest and easiest way to do it would be to purchase a roll of silage sheeting. The narrower widths as used for the sides of a silage clamp will probably be about right.

This looks like it might do the trick however- 11cfm is a good number for workshop use. Marne, is this the 4 cyclinder type you have? I might buy one for residential jobs. Hyundai 50 Litre Silent Air Compressor, 100PSI, 11CFM, 7 Bar, 2HP Portable Air Compressor, Oil Free Small Air Compressor, 2 Year Warranty, Air Compressor for Workshops, 230v 3 Pin 13amp Plug, White : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Hyundai 50 Litre Silent Air Compressor, 100PSI, 11CFM, 7 Bar, 2HP...