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doobin

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Everything posted by doobin

  1. Not a bad engine, I have a Corsa van with one in. Got a lot of go for a 1.3 diesel and very economical.
  2. How much flow rate do you think a pickup PTO actually puts out?? Let alone running the hoses around. You'd better budget for a massive oil cooler on the pickup somewhere also. Direct drive is the most efficient drive posible, and a petrol 30hp engine is so much cheaper than all the above.
  3. doobin

    Jokes???

    Santa Claus you c**t! Wheres my f*****ng bike?? 🤣🤣
  4. Dated, and will require constant maintenance. Lots of rot also unless it's been exceptionally well treated. For that money you'd be better off with an old Ranger IMHO- they're not exactly good on juice either, Fond memories though- was my first diesel 4WD- so my first proper tow motor.
  5. Baltic abrasives are where I was going to buy from. Seem to know their stuff. pretty sure I’ve had a couple of regular bench grinder wheels off them.
  6. Way more hassle than an engine directly mounted. 13hp petrol will give you 30l/min. You’d need a much bigger diesel engine to give you the same, and they are a lot more money too. 30hp petrol Loncin is around 1.2k plus vat.
  7. A beaver pack won’t run any reasonable size stump grinder. Your biggest beaver pack is a 13hp petrol engine. The basic pedestrian machines are all 13hp, with no hydraulic losses. I’m going down the route you suggest, but with an auxiliary petrol engine on the head- it’s the only feasible way. 30hp loncin should do nicely!
  8. Yes, come and have a play with the loaders and also have a play at sharpening a drill bit on the big cbn bench grinder. You’ll see why CBN is the only feasible option for such an application as a chainsaw grinder. It puts a razor edge on in seconds, and with no heat. It’s like witchcraft! 6% price increase on Sherpa from January I was told 🙄
  9. This is mainly for long chains. And CBN will make a world of difference as to how sharp they come out.
  10. Wanna flog it then? 🤣
  11. This can probably be un-stickied now… 🤣
  12. I’ll be outfitting it with a CBN wheel. How much do I need to spend to to have unacceptable flex in the mechanism? Thanks
  13. Really good suggestion, and if you’re paid by the ton would go a long way to improving your take home.
  14. The online mot history will tell you more than any seller will. That said, the engine is always a gamble. Just change the oil and cam belt as soon as you get it, and cross your fingers.
  15. 8k for a tipper is right bang where you will find overpriced tat. Newer vehicles but high mileage, often with dubious service history. Go older, cheaper and looked after. If you’re going to finance, finance plant that won’t depreciate like a vehicle does in the first three years.
  16. 3-5k would buy you a decent ranger. You don’t need a poncemobile. howevr, decent winter tyres on a normal front wheel drive van like a berlingo might surprise you.
  17. Unimog. I wouldn't like to get pulled over with that rig loaded like that. It doesn't have to move fast to be a danger, just for an old worn strap to let go whilst passing a mother and pram in town! That grab wouldn't hold it, the pressure would all have bled off within half a mile.
  18. But he asked for a first vehicle... For all we know (and all we will ever know untill he replies), a trailer is totally out of the question for him due to storage issues. It's certainly out of budget if he doesn't already have a tow vehicle, and I think we can assume that to be the case. Nirvana is when you have beavertail, flat, plant and tipper trailers, and a tipper truck, pickup truck, panel van and a small van for quoting 🤣
  19. Better to look a bit shabby (just avoid pikey transits with stripes!) yet be efficient than struggle to unload brash from a panel van IMHO. OP- Anything you can get on finance for around 8k is likely to be 5k real value in this current market. Personally I find the sweet spot to be around 3-4k and be prepared to do some spannering, but that's just me. I only do that with vehicles, as I have a lot of spare capacity- all my machinery is pretty new. If you buy for 3k, and it last two years, they are generally worth £1k for export/breakers. But so long as you have a good look underneath to avoid a rotbox, they can be kept on the road. Avoid anything on an SN plate- more than likely used for gritting in Scotland, then sent down south because the Scots aren't dumb enough to keep them around. Make use of the government's online MOT history check to look for previous rot before travelling a way to view one. What do you currently have?
  20. Got to have somewhere to keep it, and keep it safe. Big drawback for many. Plus they are daft money currently, and less physical capacity if you’re not going to be carrying heavy stuff.
  21. I presume this is to be a second vehicle? If so, I vote for tipper, if you need to remove waste or transport materials. Get a micro on the back easily also. otherwise a pickup is a good all rounder. No easy answer, that’s why I have one of each.
  22. For snedding out something like an MS241 is light and nimble. I've always ran that size saw and an MS462 size. Works for me. The MS462 does rev up very quickly, if you don't mind the weight it's not a bad snedding saw at all. Let's be honest thouhg, a domestic fell isn't production forestry. I'd sooner run a smaller saw to sned out so that I can just hold the saw comfortably by the front handle in one hand and pass the end of the branch to a groundy with the other hand.
  23. I have seen the light, oh Loader Lama!
  24. Did it today no bother. Tilt the tipper a smidge to reduce the breakover angle like you would for a ride on. I put it up forwards with the bucket low, and without standing on the back. That put the balance right where it wanted to be and no drama 👍🏻 I use 10ft alloy ramps.
  25. I was trying to be careful and not skid steer unless it was turning where the pile used to be. Barely left a mark in a straight line. A couple of wheelsping divots but they raked over.

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