doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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Employees who have to do school runs are useless. You want a job that fits around school, become a dinner lady. I would not employ the guy you describe. You'll end up having to let him go as school runs and kids off sick become too much of a problem, leaving you wide open to a discrimination case. If he's worth more, pay him more, but invoiced (with UTR) only.
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What bit of 'not in council hours' don't you get? Most employers here would be fine lending their labourer a 750kg trailer to move a sofa for his mum. They'd be less chuffed if he did the mum's sofa, plus the neighbours, in company time, in the company van, with the company diesel. The differences aren't even subtle.
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It doesn't need to look like new. I'd put far more emphasis on changing the oil, filters and belts and making sure the teeth are all sharp. 30-50 days a year is more than enough work to warrant some substantial investment in a decent machine in my book. That sounds like a great deal that will make it's money back in no time.
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Pallets are all you need. That subframe means you can stick it down pretty much anywhere and it will still run true.
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It’s tight but you can still load it with the forklift The Sherpa is great for smaller logs too
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The weather was so shit last month that it made sense to bring it inside. That post might have been for a job or for a sale, I can’t remember, it’s been busy. posted in another thread but we added the extension too. So it won’t forklift through the barn door anymore! 🤣 should be able to lift it out with the backhoe though.
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Added a drop in mount for the chopsaw to do weathertops easier.
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Huge uptick in the amount of people (well, wives and girlfriends) responding to ‘recommend a tradesman’ posts on FB.
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Are you an employee or a contractor?? This has clusterfk and falling out with everyone written all over it.
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Large Drill bit for steel rod bracing approx 1.5m trunk
doobin replied to Tommy O's topic in General chat
No, any drill bit (such as an auger) that will be tranmitting a lot of torque comes with a hex shank. The SDS is designed for percussive works, not so much torque. It also has a clutch in there that will slip easily, as anyone who has got a little trigger happy boring a large diameter hole through concrete will attest to. The high torque drills come with very long brace bars to help you hang on! @dumpergot a link to that? An impact wrench or driver produces jolts of torque, for loosening tight machine threads. Sustained torque is what you need for drilling (and installing coach screws/timberlocks! although the impact motion can be helpful in preventing cam-out here) -
Large Drill bit for steel rod bracing approx 1.5m trunk
doobin replied to Tommy O's topic in General chat
An SDS is totally the wrong drill for the job. You need a low geared high torque drill like oak framers use. I have the Milwaukee variant. Milwaukee M18FRAD2-0 M18 FUEL SUPER HAWG 2 Speed Right Angle Drill Driver Bare Unit FFX.CO.UK The Milwaukee M18FRAD2 is a 18V FUEL Super Hawg, 2-speed, 2nd generation right angle drill driver. Ideal for... -
It's forestry. Have as much chainsaw use and traffic as is required for the forestry operation, fk the neighbours.
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I have to ask- what happens after nine winters?
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Or a cut and collect behind said tractor!
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What's your role in relation to this? Are you a potential employee of the landowner? A contractor looking to work for the landowner? An employee of a contractor? The first thing that springs to mind is that twenty years old is not very old to be thinning a mixed hardwood plantation.
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If I'm honest I'm not looking forward to chainsaw milling, but it's a means to an end!
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DitchWitch is looking a bit unloved. I crossed the pipes and it turns out the track motor is at fault, pulled it and sent it off for inspection and crossed my fingers.
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Cheap loader here for someone... 🤣
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Bloody great little diggers, I have one the same year. -
Currently it has a 36" Stihl Rollomatic, mainly for removing excessive butt flare and crosscutting milling logs prior to placing on the bandsaw mill. I'm thinking a 54" bar/mill would be the best setup. 48" of cut is a fairly chunky butt, and apparently the same Panther mill will take a 64" bar if needed?
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Thanks for your input guys. Is the consensus that an 881 is not taxed with a 54" setup, so low pro chain is more hassle due to having to treat it with kid gloves? If I were to get a .404 bar that could do double duty for large fells and crosscutting also. So a saving there. @AJStrees- what is the biggest butt you can handle with the 42" bar? On a 48" mil- are you saying the mill would take up to a 48" bar but you use 42"? How does that work, I don't quite follow.
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What a cluster****************. I don't understand how firms take on and win jobs like this without machinery. A 2.7t with a grab and a good op would have kept that clear no bother, either feeding a chipper of bonfire.
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I dont get why the OP, when presented with a total soloution for both mowing and scarifying, just says 'I don't want another tractor'. Well if you already have a tractor, you could have a suitable soloution for both mowing and scarifying for around £3k! Secondhand finishing mower and scarifier/collector.
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I currently have three Iseki and one Kubota. All are excellent tractors, but the Kubota is better for me. Comparing like-for-like models, it's the things like the Kubota having bi-speed turning and independant brakes that swing it. Independant brakes are essential on any tractor, what were Iseki thinking?? Mind you, I prefer how the Iseki has a button rather than a lever for the PTO. Some people might also prefer how the hydro pedals are connected to the throttle, so you can drive it on just the pedals without needing to set revs on the hand throttle. The Iseki also comes with a nice two double acting spool arrangement as standard, both with float. This is a really useful feature for a contractor, and is extra on the Kubota.
