doobin

If the saw is to be dedicated to the mill, then I'd assume the more power the better (and bigger oiler)?

Wider kerf. More work on the (small) saw when there is no need IMHO. I run the thinnest (1.1mm) Stihl 3/8 picco on my MS250 (12" bar), and run it hard. I've never broken a chain. I was felling hard old yews with it a couple of weeks ago and really pushing it. It just cuts so well with such a thin bar. Smooth, controlled and oodles of power. All this talk of MS241s, I really want one! Power to weight of my MS250 and pro build quality

Take it down your local motor factors and they will match it up no bother, probably off the shelf or later this afternoon. About as cheap as you will find one also. All it needs to do is fit in the space properly and possibly have the terminals the right way round depending upon the length of your leads.

12" is on a 3/8 (picco) sprocket, not .325. .325 is a stupid kerf for a small saw if you ask me. I agree, 18" would have made it suffer and defeated the object of such power to weight ratio.

That was going to be twenty grand?? You dodged a bullet there mate.

Your missing the point. Some poor kid trying to get started will pay them £15 for the privilege of phoning a timewaster like you...

Google Service Magic and you will find that they are a waste of time, bordering upon a scam.

All you need is an adaptor, about a tenner Or you can remove the 6-spline female from one end and just fit a 1000 spline female for about the same cost.

I love a happy ending

It's all Chinese. The machine quality is probably OK but I wouldn't recommend LTS. Had a plasma cutter from them, damaged in transit, circuit boards bent in half. I sent it back, they 'fixed a switch' and sent it back to me (still all bent inside), then claimed they were out of stock to send a replacement. The thing works fine and I can't be arsed to argue the toss/post it back AGAIN, but I'd advise you to shop elsewhere.

What do you expect, posting a vague as hell spec, 'any method will do' ? What do you intend to do with the arisings? You haven't even specified if they need to be removed. Do you have any idea how much shite will be left? Or are you confusing a mulcher with a vapouriser? If you want a clean site, then it's a toss-up between hiring a tub grinder and grab lorry to transport it to a green waste site, or just cutting the long bits and hiring the same lorry do do a couple of runs. As you pay by the ton to tip at a green waste site, a couple more runs will probably work out much cheaper than grinding first. You still haven't said why no fires. Big cost saving there. If you want to be the middleman on jobs like this then you need to post a solid spec. No wonder nobody bothered to reply.

You could have said that in the first post, rather than 'any method will do'... What's the reason for no fires? If you mulch that, the next thing the client will be asking about is what to do with the arisings. It's gonna be a fair old pile of crap even after its been mulched.

If there's an 8 tonner and grab on site, it just needs a decent operator and a match If you need the above then PM me.

New with warranty every time for me.

As I understand it- if you are a labour only subcontractor, the same rules now apply in forestry as in construction, so you are taxed at source under the CIS scheme. Plenty of LOSC were taking the piss and not paying tax- this is why the CIS came into being. If you are genuinely self employed and buying machines/tools to advance your business, all you need to do is provide a UTR to prove you are registered and paying tax.

sawdust/wood shavings/wood burning workshop stoves | eBay I'd recommend them. Yes, it does warp a bit with it being plate steel rather than cast, but for the money it's superb. You could always weld it if it cracked, but the guy who makes them told me he's got customers with 10 year old ones still running fine. They burn joinery sawdust very well. This is very dry at 10-15%. Fill it up, open the top vent and stick a blowtorch in. Job done, yard heated in ten minutes. Sawdust from log processing is hopeless, far too wet.

Stihl bars are like Stihl saws- they just work; day in, day out

NFU all the way.

Round here joinery shops can't give it away. I find it hard to believe there's a market for it. Luckily my yard burner runs great on sawdust, so I happily provide heavy duty sacks to my local joinery place, and return all dust extractor bags intact. Win win.

Just because 'the figures don't stack up' doesn't mean the free market gives a toss. I bitched and whined about this myself whilst putting in fourteen hour days. Got there in the end. I outlined the way I did things as a subby in my previous post- why not share your experiences rather than saying 'companies must pay subbies more'?

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/74363-legalities-burning.html HTH

Own insurance counts for nothing when working as a labour only subcontractor. Own saw? I'd rather they just used mine, at least I know they'll start. Seriously, it's a bone of contention that people think they're worth double an employed person just for a grands worth of expenses. That's all it costs for a saw and basic kit. OP is in an excellent thing called the free market. I myself started off in a similar way to him, though on agricultural rather than arborcultural work. With a borrowed MS230, happy days! OP, fill your week with work, for as many different people as you can. Once you have a solid week booked, up your rates by £10/day. Some people will stop using you. Doesn't matter. If you are good word will get around (especially if you do as I said and work for as many as possible) and you will fill the week with work at £70, all the while whilst building a toolkit to make you worth more. The more people you work for, the more different skills you will accumulate. I remember thinking 'it's got to be a onner a day with a chainsaw' way back when. Looking back I knew nothing. I'll probably do the same in another five years time Repeat this process until you are earning £120-150 a day as a subbie, and then you will become too expensive for most employers. Either stop there or start taking on your own jobs. I'm happy to pay certain subbies £120-150 a day, and do on complicated fencing jobs. That doesn't mean that every subby with a chainsaw is worth anything like that however. It's called a free market, find your place in it I've been spending every penny I earn on tools and toys since age 17. I still remember spending my first pay packet from the farm in the Screwfix catalogue. I still have tools and consumables bought that day and they still earn me money.

:thumbup1: Also, can't imagine one feed roller will be any use whatsoever. Most of the Chinese junkers only have one.

You could have done that for about £250 for an electric changeover valve and some fittings. The hiab looks a complete bodge. They've cut the back of the lorry off (even left the number plate! ) and welded a shoddy 3-pt linkage with very little structural strength. I wouldn't touch it with a bargepole. Soon as you swing a reasonable load out towards the back, sides or front that linkage bracket will part company with the rest of the crane. Previously those jacklegs had twenty foot of lorry chassis and the associated ground footprint via the wheels keeping them vertical. Now they have three inches of crappy welding on some second-hand box section. That thing scares me just looking at it. It's amazing how much people will bid on the strength of a quick paintjob.