doobin

3 £27 combos without a doubt. Spend less on the chains and more on an alarm system.

I did try to explain all this in my first post Hope it works out to be that.

Here's a new thing from them, and already helmet mounted. FM radio, line in and automatic amplification of voice, warning signals etc. Looks perfect for what you want. http://www.howardleight.com/ear-muffs/sync-electo

Best radio ear defenders ever are these: Bilsom Radio Ear Defenders 28dB SNR | Screwfix.com Quality and reception will knock the spots off Peltor etc. However, they've been superseded by these: Arco Website - Howard Leight Sync AM/FM Radio Hi-Vis from Howard Leight - Product 211000 which are a digital type so may well suffer from the same problems as the Husky as regards turning your head/loosing signal. Can't comment as I'm sick of the radio these days and only use MP3- those ones above have an aux in socket anyway. Before you decide what to get, make sure you can get the helmet mount. Both as different. You will need to buy a non-radio helmet mount ear defender with the same shell type, and swap them over. For the most recent one, this kis what I used: Arco Website - L1 Helmet Mounted Ear Defender from Howard Leight - Product 211005 Another way of doing it is to use behind-the-neck ear defenders. My guys like these but I don't. Arco Website - Howard Leight Bilsom Leightning L1 Ear Muffs SNR29 from Howard Leight - Product 210003 You can just stick your helmet on the top then. So onto helmets- you sweat a lot? Me too, get the lightest and most vented you can. I use this: Arco Website - JSP EVOLite Vented Helmet from JSP - Product 4J4900 Buy some extra sweatbands: Arco Website - Centurion Safety Helmet Sweatbands from Centurion - Product 422600 Be aware that you can get stuff like this, and new outers for the ear defenders: Arco Website - Howard Leight Cool 2 Ear Muff Absorbent Pads from Howard Leight - Product 201200 Hard hat adaptors are needed to fit the helmet mount ear defenders to the helmet of your choice. Usually one of two, decide upon your helmet first. This is the importers page which is good for listing all the accessories for those radio ear defenders: All adaptors have the standard Euro slot for you to use the mesh or plastic visor of your choice. Howard Leight | Hard Hat / Helmet Earmuff Adapter I got mine from Arco but you may have to ring them as their website is pretty shite, epspecially when looking for specific extras and adaptors. Thinking about ear defenders again, you could always get the cheap MP3 only ones: Howard Leight | Sync Stereo Earmuff plug your phone in via a cable with mic, then use the phone radio and be able to answer calls. I have those ones on helmet mounts and they're excellent, only about £45 with the mounts.

You mean something like this? Ripper Blades | Blackdiamond International, Diamond Blades I've got one. It comes into it's own for certain jobs, but stumpgrinding wouldn't be one of them. The gyroscopic force it generates is immensely tiring, and there's no way you could safely sweep it over a stump by hand. Cutting through roots when digging stumps out, and general demolition cuts is about all I've used mine for.

Make your own helmet. Spec it how you want. 'Forestry helmets' are simply helmets with a mesh visor and ear defenders, and a high price tag. You need to work out what slots your chosen helmet has. Euro slots are the most common. Then you choose the ear defenders you want, with a helmet mount for that slot. Then you can add visors etc. Tell me exactly what you want and I'll tell you how to do it. Bin the helmet and start over- a brand new shiny vented reduced peak helmet is only a tenner, and much lighter than the Husky.

This can happen if the clamp holding the outer shaft to the clutch housing becomes loose- it simply means the inner shaft will not be engaging properly with the output female shaft. You won't notice it's loose as the anti vibe will stop the outer shaft from rotating and mask the extra half inch of length.

Sstick the outer shaft into the clutch housing (all the way), and then insert the inner shaft. You can leave the antivibe and handlebars off for now. Ideally clamp the shaft in a vice with the head end pointing slightly up, then start the engine. If the shaft turns when you rev it, turn it off, stick the gearhead on and test it again under load. I'd do all that (about 5 mins work) before messing around with the clutch.

Tsk, I don't know, students these days...

As above, £10 says it's the bar at fault. Post a pic of the bar and we can advise.

Hope this helps.

Yeah, you don't need a huge amount of horsepower. 540RPM is the PTO speed you need, it's the basic speed for all tractors so no worries there. Other PTO speeds are higher geared for economy so so long as the revs are set right you could run it on a 540E, 1000 or even 1000E PTO, From my limited experience of winching, the bigger the tractor the easier it is to position the winch without doing a wheelie....

If you have a large amount, hire a small mobile screener for a day. That will give you your required grades without rehandling everything twice and shaking the hell out of your machine. Riddle buckets have a place, they're great on site and for small amounts. But for a large stockpile that you want multiple grades from, a days screener hire is far more cost effective. If it's something you think you would use a lot, I'd go with a rotary screener bucket with changeable mesh rather than a riddle bucket. If your stockpile is only a couple of wagon loads (and from the sounds of it a right mix up), it would probably be even cheaper to have it taken away (free if it's clean) and the required grades of screened material brought to you when you need them.

I hope they had the sense to add some rebar to that too...

You should be able to buy saws and tophandles without tickets. Darwins law.

I'm sure this is a sincere gesture that you feel is generous, so thanks for the offer . But I'm sorry to tell you that a 5" branch is tiny, everyone on here will think you're taking the piss... Best to post on Gumtree?

Is it your tractor or the landowners? Wait until you break something on it- unless it's forestry spec it will happen very soon. On jobs like this I work on day rate, with written agreements as to who is responsible for what. Otherwise it can quickly turn sour.

What do we reckon the price of seasoned cord will be in January? I have about three arctics worth, and I'm fed up with it.

Where the rear seats were I'd recommend quality filing cabinets that can be locked during transit. Keep all your gear organised.

True that. Yesterday was brilliant, we worked all day in the yard with the log burner roaring. Rewired the yard properly, put in a compressor circuit, a 32a machine circuit, a kitchen circuit, and put the whole lot on separate breakers rather than one 40amp and one line of 6mm as before A productive day. Tomorrow is due to be awful so we're cashing in outside today and will finish sorting the yard tomorrow.

For a learning curve, you might as well start with upping the (undergeared in my opinion) sprocket on the bar and chain combo you already have. A lot cheaper to start with

The easiest thing would be to replicate it in your own words. If you're solely worried about loosing your access to it, then simply download a backup copy to your hard disc. It's also highly unlikely it would go missing, we're not talking about illegal cracks, warez and serialz here.... We should help each other out in public, or there's no point in a forum for discussion. There was another member on here once who was full of self aggrandising shite. 'PM me for this, PM me for that. Amazing document of timber values or some such, PM me'. Then he'd fill the thread with 'PM sent' so everyone could see what an awesome guy he was It's just childish. A forum is for sharing

The purpose of a forum is to share information. Post it here. I'd keep the head for spares. I have three in bits and two that keep limping along

Filters cleaned, not replaced?

If you'll pass up an 044 in good nick for £100 just to go on holiday instead, then you're probably not in the best position to negotiate on a swap... I'll give you a Maculloch Double Eagle 50 for both of them. Them bars look proper abused.