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doobin

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Everything posted by doobin

  1. R-Tech, no question about it. Widely considered the best value hobby/semi pro MIGs on the market, and the backup is fantastic. I've got two migs and a plasma and they have been pretty heavily used. With bodywork it's all about how low the amps will go- cheap sets skimp here. https://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/r-tech-181-digital-mig-welder Call them up to order and ask to change the torch for a genuine Binzel MB15- much nicer to use. Won't cost much.
  2. Looks like it's Shibuara. Still Japanese and reliable. New Holland 1220: Specs, Engine, Transmission, Dimensions AGRO-SPECS.COM Production Distributor: New Holland Manufacturer: Shibaura Type: Compact Utility tractor Factory: Japan Original price:... List of tractors built by Iseki for other companies | Tractor ... TRACTORS.FANDOM.COM This is for tractors built by Iseki for other companies.
  3. Yes the Honda engine oil switches just divert the spark to earth when they trip.
  4. Afaik ford/nh rebranded Shibuara tractors. Massey sold some badge engineered Iseki compacts for a while. Unless there was a on older agreement between Ford/Iseki?
  5. These are great, a really sensible sized skidder for a compact tractor. I love mine.
  6. It's been two days, and nobody has pointed out the glaringly obvious. If your winch couldn't keep up, I'll bet a pound to a silver pig that you made the classic tree surgeon mistake of putting the winch rope way too high. I've seen it time and time again, from guys with years of arb experience, with varying degrees of collateral damage that was totally avoidable. The worst is when you can see whats coming a mile off, but you can't tell the lead company to do it any different as if you tell them the right way and their blokes with no experience still **************** it up it'll then be your fault. Arb and forestry are totally different, and it really shows in situations like these. With a dead pop, I'd always set the rope probably around halfway up depending on weight distribution/what it looks like (theres the years of experience, hard to quantify), notch it and guage the size of the gob by how quickly I encounter rot. Then the backcut leaving a really recent amount of wood (cannot stress this enough). A good, committed pull with the 2.7t digger or Multione or truck and away she goes.
  7. The dx27z (until this years models) is the same as the bobcat e27z. For Arb work you really want the e27. More counterweight (although nowhere near the tailswing of the Yanmar) and a larger engine than the z model, which is good for lifting and shifting quickly.
  8. If your ball hitch is making that much noise as to be heard over the general trailer clatter, then it's dangerously worn. Don't bodge it, sort it before you kill someone.
  9. I sold my 1950 hour 2019 e27 with grab and rotator for £22.5k plus vat a few months ago. Good genuine machine with very little wear. I think I must have misunderstood your post, are you saying that a new kx30 is 56k euros plus tax???
  10. You’ll get a yanmar for 30k and add your own grab. Much better machine. Bobcat will be stupid money initially. Have the prices for sany, yanmar and cat to hand and tell them to get much closer else the machine can stay in their yard. pricks tried it on at 37.5k with me over covid. Bought this last one no buckets but ready for my own hydraulic hitch at 32k.
  11. Yanmar are most definitely worth a look. 30k ish for an Arb ready one with hydraulic hitch. I wasn’t keen on the cab and felt that the bobcat flow shared a bit better, but still a cracking machine and it might just be the case that I was too used to Bobcat so stuck with another the same. Sany are probably a bit cheaper but nowhere near as nice. Watched a hire one struggling with timber on the same slopes that my e27 laughed at and could see that the wouldn’t even be in the running the my digger replacement no matter how cheap. I wasn’t aware that they did a non zero 2.6t. You deffo don’t want a zero for Arb.
  12. Very nice! I’ve always wanted to try a Kubota kx30. What money was it?
  13. Congrats! Exceptional value for money new I thought when pricing up. They last well too.
  14. doobin

    The post

    Stubbys postie is female (seriously) 😉
  15. I’m tempted by the m18 kombi but apparently the stihl one is a bit more ergonomic and less vibes. So I may well just buy a battery stihl unit plus two batteries as it would cost me similar to change all the attachments to Milwaukee. unless I can grind the star shaft on the Milwaukee square to fit into the stihl! Assuming tubes are same diameter too. I’d need one in my hands to check.
  16. I’m going to be polite here. ok I’m not. You simply don’t know what the fk you are talking about. you keep coming out with this whenever Milwaukee are mentioned. There’s a reason Milwaukee are so popular amongst professionals, and it’s because they are at the top of their game with performance and innovation. Trust pilot doesn’t mean shit. If Milwaukee wanted to play the game they could sign up to trust pilot and then use the features to remove bad reviews whilst encouraging their buyers to leave a review. The reason there are only 237 reviews for a global company who sell that many power tools per minute is because they haven’t signed up to trust pilot, so the reviews are from retards who probably couldn’t work out that you had to buy a battery as well.
  17. Yeah, think it’s 155 width. keep the blades sharp and you can get a fair lick on
  18. Near fittleworth
  19. Just a Winton topper. Nice big swing back blades- ideal for nature reserve work when you might just decide to thin a patch of something out on the way past. it’s a real beast on the alpine in reverse mode. Cheap enough too.
  20. Out on second round of bracken control today. Up hill, down dale, through the trees, the occasional straight line. Absolutely ideal tractor for it. It’s far quicker across the ground than the equivalent compact tractor, and much more accurate than a large tractor and topper. Loving the reverse drive.
  21. It’s warrantied with rubber or steel for five years. It’s finally summer, so rubber track time. Much nicer on hard surfaces. steels are for winter work on slopes or in the woods, and they excel at that.
  22. It’s a good head, I just find the auto cut 25 easier around obstacles. The 40 feels numb in comparison once you’ve tried the 25. but it’ll do all you want for now and it comes with the strimmer.
  23. You can't just extend the shaft, you have to buy the long shaft model to start. Else you'll spend silly money on new bits. Stihl 2.4mm line (orange) is all I use for grass. In a smaller head (change the internal nuts to fit). That red cord works well for brambles etc in the 4-way Autocut head.
  24. Highly recommended. After my Husky polesaw shit the bed after three years use (probably used for around 10 hours total!) and the Stihl previosuly gave me no end of issues, I've gone battery. And let me tell you, this thing knocks the spots off any petrol polesaw I've used. Savage power, masses of torque and not too bad to hold. It's 12". hopefully it uses the same chain as my M18 top handle, which I think is 1/4 and a very narrow kerf, it really makes a difference. I used it for the first time in anger on the larger hazel stems in this hedge, and honestly, no sooner had I touched a 4" stem then it was through it. Never felt anything like it. As I'm already heavily invested in the M18 battery system, I didn't feel that around £450 plus VAT was a terrible price either. I'm using a 12ah high-output battery on it. I'd always advise people to get the high output batteries for these kind of M18 tools, the difference is palpable.
  25. I used to do shitloads of strimming as you describe. You don't want an FS561. They are built for cutting Christmas trees. Much heavier, way more vibes and nasty to use in comparison to an FS461. Even the FS491 is a noticeably different platform, I have both and the FS461 is much nicer to use. Penty of power, I run without the guard, a foot of string each side and the nut swapped from the standard Autocut 40 head to an Autocut 25, which gives a nice nimble cutting end for getting around obstacles with the minimum of movement. 2.4mm line is plenty, if you need to do heaver stuff then put the 4 way head on with some 2.7mm line. Thicker line just drags a machine down, it's a waste of time on grass. This surgical approach has seen me well, and despite nowadays spending every day sat in a cab except when I cut the church grass, I could still 'out-strim' anyone here who wishes to throw their hat into the ring. @Stubby? 🤣

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