doobin

20% less than the best ex vat price online would be a good start point.

I remember my interpump being pricey ish for spares, but at least it's repairable (simple too) and hasn't missed a beat since. Nilfish in my experience give as much electrical trouble as Karcher, at least on steam units.

The pull will be partly depending on the pressure blow out on your aux circuit so worth checking that against your winches recommend pressure as I know on ours that maxes out before the winch will. Mine needs a pressure reducer to protect the winch.

My metabo 6” angle grinder is simply fantastic. Mind you, it wants to be for £220!

It's going to have to come from the aux simply due to flow rates- a blade tee woudl be far too slow. To be fair, the faff of hooking it on is probably comparable to the faff of removing the grab/rotator combo! With 4t more pull than yours I'll keep it on the blade I think. Has a radio remote control- should be handy when it's finished.

Seconded. I'm midway through mounting a 10t winch to a drop on blade tray for my E27- I wasn't sure I could trust the boom to hold/not snap in half if the spade anchor slipped!

I can never sell large ash for milling. Couldn't even give it away last time- and the mill owner was there with his tractor!

Yes, ballcock inside IBC (tricky two man job to fit!) Takes less than ten minutes to empty and two hours to fill... If I end up using it more I will run a dedicated 22mm feed, it's just teed off the 15mm at the moment. Looking again at the pump specs, it says 210 lires/min, not 100. I'll have to get a stopwatch out next time I wash the yard down.

Yes, but not a huge amount of pressure (sorry if not clear). Much greater pressure than a normal water pump, but not a pressure washer. Kind of fire hose pressure- in fact, some are used for this and we use ours as first response mounted to an IBC in the back of a truck on scrub burn ups. It's a Japanese unit, and very good value IMHO. It was less faff to install than an electric washdown unit with the benefit of being forklift portable as one unit on an IBC- just gotta remember to take the drain plugs out when not in use in winter. I have it mounted halfway down the IBC so you turn a tap and it self primes. You can see the brass pressure relief valve I've added so that you can shut the nozzle off safely with the engine still running. Total cost around £700-£800 for all the bits, and it's probably saved that in labour in the first year washing down machines and yard. I wouldn't be without it. Yes, it uses a lot of water, but a cube is only a couple of quid, and there's no reason you couldn't run it on rainwater with a much bigger buffer tank. Again, cheaper than labour. Tsurumi TEF-25HA 1" Petrol Powered High-Pressure Water Pump - Machine Mart - Machine Mart WWW.MACHINEMART.CO.UK In practice you're never washing on hot for hours on end. I might use 5l per month if doing a lot of repair work. Can't beat it for shifting grease. Diesel is cheaper than labour, and you can always run it on cold for most of your normal washing.

100%, and I alluded to this in my earlier post. However, marcus said 230v, and 13litres/min is simply the most you'll get from a motor running from a single phase supply. If you need bigger, you're looking at 13hp petrol models. Don't be tempted by cheap 6.5hp petrol models promising a gazillion PSI. As Eggs says, flow is much more important. For washing down machines, I use a petrol 'high head' type pump that pushes 100l/minute, running from an IBC. Brilliant for diggers caked in wet mud. It also has no pressure washer equal for washing down a muddy concrete yard- if you've ever used a dairy type washdown hose, it's comparable to that. Horses for courses. I still have a 230v Cleanwell steam cleaner, and I'm tempted to get a 13hp petrol pressure washer.

^ How could you want to change that for a 1.7 tonner mate??

It would likely have blown as it strained to tip if it were a heavy load causing it, and I’m not convinced that the pump draws many extra amps with a heavy load on but could be wrong. I’d start by checking the wiring for shorting.

So what do you propose? A sealed box with a dehumidifier to be compulsory before the purchase of logs? Fuck me mate, even the ducks have been wearing wellies these last three months!

Got a number for him? As I understand it it’s not just a remap on that vintage- you’d need new turbo and inter cooler as they are not common rail.

Looks shit to me. I'd be after a refund.

And more rust. Tip the body, check the crossmembers, 3 way tip models were particularly bad.

They’re cheap enough to test a few methods with for sure.

That tooth looks halfway back, and it doesn't look like you've taken the rakers down? If so that'll be your problem! Might just be my eyesight though, the gap also looks OK.

Could just be the carb, a simple fix. Could also be low on compression, ie. buggered. You need to exmplain more what you mean by a lack of power. Where in the UK are you, there might be someone near you.

Those with RHI grants on wood drying kilns will be laughin all the way to the bank.. AGAIN!

If it's asbestos then big money just in disposal.

I'd make them sign a disclaimer before I did anything. And if they look even slightly like chancers, walk away.

Don't hesitate to buy a CBN wheel. Never used a chain grinder but the difference CBN made to my drill bit sharpening was night and day. The slowness is probably due to wheel heat burring the edge slightly. I had exactly the same issues with sharpening drill bits freehand, and CBN solved all my woes. Never need dressing either. The real pros tool.

That’ll teach cpl to sell wet wood!! ?? How will they police this??? An unexpected small bit of common sense though- an exemption for sales of more than 2 cube wet wood, presumably for home seasoning.

Try a torque stick on your impact wrench. Best of both worlds.