jrose

I would have a 461, the top handle will really deal with anything up to this sort of size. Get an 18" and a 25" bar for it and you're set to deal with all but the really big stuff. I do have a 362 for general ground use which is nice for chogging down mid size stems, but I'd rather the 461 if I could only have one.

Not used a spiderjack 3 but I would have thought one of the more popular 11.something ropes would be a good choice, try looking at either Tachyon or Blue Tongue won't go far wrong with those. I prefer Tachyon, feels a bit better in the hand and less bouncy IMO

No link?

Not sure where you're based but last time I was up there Lister Wilder in Cirencester had a tracked 150 for not far off the price you're looking at, IIRC

Personally, unless you need it to be portable I would always go for a desktop over a laptop. Far more bang for your buck, and much more comfortable to use for an extended period of office tasks - proper mouse and full keyboard, larger screen etc. Plus there's the psychological thing of sitting on the computer to do work, do the work, walk away from the computer! I have a Lenovo desktop, the sort with all the gubbins in the screen. Cost me about £300 or so, here's a link to a similar one. It's not going to set the world on fire, but it's perfect for what I need it for (Office, email, internet) LENOVO C20 19.5" All-in-One PC Deals | PC World I also have an Asus laptop, for when I need to use it out and about. It's OK, but I'd always choose to use the desktop for any real amount of work. Cost about £200, again here's a link to a similar machine. ASUS E200HA 11.6" Laptop - Gold Deals | PC World Personally, I'd stay away from any tablet with a keyboard attached, for any amount of work at all they're horrible! Leaning over it with bad posture, struggling to read the screen or to type properly on the tiny keyboard... Hope this helps!

Are you talking heatherings as in hedge laying, young trees for planting or something else?

Got an email? I've got a couple of things I can send over tomorrow...

I could be wrong, but if I remember correctly 11.7mm hedera is the same rope as blue tongue, which is generally held as a very good choice with the zig zag. I think there is also a 13mm hedera which is normal xtc, and there may be a 11mm which is something else again?

Looks like a good idea, one thing I would keep an eye on is the metal of the ropeman rubbing on the green D, not sure what metal the ropeman is made of but it looks like you could get wear there when loaded and twisting about?

Hi all, Just been up the yard today, pottering about getting stuff ready for back to work next week. Took the old blades off the chipper, then realised I've lost the piece of paper I wrote the torque setting down on! It's a fairly new (to me) machine, and I cant remember what it was. Anyone know what the torque setting is for a Jesen a528t please? I've done them up to 60nm (same as the Timberwolf) just so I could move it out the way, but would like to check proper setting before putting any wood through! Cheers Joe

Cheers everyone, I may look at getting a hi lift jack then as like the option of using as a winch to get you out of trouble, will still have the bottle jack from the truck as well so all bases covered really!

Hi all, Following me having to run across the county because the track came off a chipper and there was no grease gun or other kit available, I'm getting a lockable tool box fitted to the chipper trailer. Got a grease gun, sockets, pry bar etc... Now need to buy a jack. What is the best type of jack to lift a track chipper, bearing in mind it may be in mud, uneven surfaces and the like? We've always got away with bottle jacks before as they're what's in the truck, but is there a better option? I'm veering away from trolley jack as I'm not sure how they'll work off road, thinking of hi lift but never used one. Any advice from people who have replaced tracks in the dark, wet and cold as to which they'd rather have very welcome!

I just found it a bit harsh how a question was asked re cutting your bridge, answers were given including both advice on second bridges and improving work postitioning, none of which were the right answer and resulting in a few people getting spoken to a bit rudely? Stick a second bridge on if it makes.you happy, don't expect anyone else to do the same.

Sorry mate, but the idea of a second bridge is related to (chain)saw use as stated in your first post... "in case your bridge got cut or badly nicked" My personal opinion is that a second bridge would not make you any safer by itself, otherwise we end up going down the route of two main lines at all times, visor AND safety glasses at all time(already implemented and enforced in some areas of the industry), two pairs of chainsaw trousers, two helmets, etc etc Far better to focus on safe working practice and risk assessments IMO

Not bridges as such, more very short singles lines from a central attachemrnt point. You then clip your climbing system directly onto the splice in this line. You would lose all friction associated with the sliding ring, as there is no rope running through metal. Want to move so your layard which was on your right side is now on your left? No twisting,snagging of your bridge as they're independent of each other

Agreed! And I would go along with the view that if you are risking cutting your bridge, you shouldn't be up a tree However I'm bored and now have something.to think about, so my mind is whirring with ideas

Right, I'll throw this out there, a million pound idea and if tefalburger are interested all rights belong to me A harness along the lines of the old willans with no floating bridge as we know it, instead two short lengths of rope with a splice in, or dynerma sling. You clip your main line into one an your secondary line/lanyard into the other. You know have two points of attachment, free to move in all directions left/right/up/down regardless of where the other one is, and independent of each other as if you cut one "bridge" the other is still attached. Thoughts?

If I ever had the great misfortune to cut my bridge while stropped in, I would: A)take the risk and descend on my side Ds B)use my spare prussik or tape sling on the back of my harness as a makeshift emergency bridge to get down In my opinion, a second bridge would get in the way 99% of the time and serve no real function

For those who climb on a hitch climber, how about another thought... You could have a suitably.sized dyneema sling clipped into the rear green attachment on a treemotion, when you are cutting near your bridge you could just clip into the middle hole? Instant attachment, all rated as PPE and completely independent of whole bridge system, can be easily removed if it's in the way.

As I said, you could use it instead of the small ring on your cambium saver to bypass the splice issue (assuming its sufficiently rated), use it as a slack tender, use it as a sole anchor point on a tape sling, light rigging duties, redirects on pulling lines - the world is your oyster!

I use 3 wraps 2 legs on a longer bit of cord, as long as the cord isn't too stiff it works fine. Bee line is my favourite, followed closely by armour prus

As I see it, three options to keep using your rope and cambium saver: 1. Use unspliced end, a buntline knot works well with a Hitch Climber, I used one for about 2 years until I finally got a rope with a splice. 2. Put your rope through cambium saver backwards, would mean retying your hitch up the tree. I know one chap who always keeps his CS on his rope, when not using it then it's just flopping on top of his prussik. 3. Use a swing cheek pulley or small mallion which you can attach midline, instead of the small ring. You could try this out with your HC and a krab to check it works, bear in mind you shouldn't really use a krab in this configuration as it's away from your reach. Hope that helps!

I've used both 372 and 461, and I'd take my 461 any day - stonking saw IMO Sent from my BUSH SPIRA D3 5.5 using Arbtalk mobile app

I've had 3 201t all on 14" bars, never had an issue with any of them (2 normal carb, current one is a 201t) As said, a cordless drill in the right place opens them right up! That and a decent chain, I seem to remember the one they come with is quite heavy on the bumper links Sent from my BUSH SPIRA D3 5.5 using Arbtalk mobile app

Stihl 461 will run a 25" with no problems, or an 18" like a demon. And it's normal carb (unless the very new ones have changed?) Sent from my BUSH SPIRA D3 5.5 using Arbtalk mobile app