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Dan Curtis

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Everything posted by Dan Curtis

  1. Dan Curtis
    Here you go. It does take some retrieving so probably not the best for rough bark and large limbs but it's functional and safe. The knot is a bowline on a bight and the krab is a backup in the tail. I've got another static tip tie that I'm gonna put up but it's non retrievable.....at the moment. I'm working on that one:thumbup1:
  2. Dan Curtis
    A man I know once told me "only 18 year olds want to use an 88 all day" Quite true once you've spent a bit of time with one. Having said that, an 88 with a 25" bar is certainly a beast that takes a man to tame it! Quite a nice power to weight ratio when you take into account cutting speed. I run a 395 with 28" & 36" bars, that does the majority of the decent size stuff, after all, it's a 6ft cut from both sides with the 36" on. Only twice in the last year have I needed to step up to a 4ft bar and cut from both sides. One 7ft stem and one 8ft stem
  3. Dan Curtis
    No worries
  4. Dan Curtis
    To be fair, your transit is bigger than most:sneaky2:
  5. Dan Curtis
    One thing I'd add to the answers so far. If you're on a base anchor, then continuing up to a higher PSP, but don't want to load that with double forces; Take a bight to tie your psp, so that you're only tied in there, not loaded on the base side. Work the tree using single forces on your PSP, descend and retrieve your rope from the base anchor, simples. Retrievable double anchors with single loading:thumbup1:
  6. Dan Curtis
    I'll get some pics for you:thumbup:
  7. Dan Curtis
    When I made the transition that's how I found things. I also had strained forearms because I was trying to climb in a ddrt style and pull myself back in on limbs. Once I realised the issue I focused on changing my style, to aim to use the benefits of Srt, not fight against them. Hope it works out for you
  8. Dan Curtis
    Are you redirecting to high points above your work stations? If not, the problem could be using a relatively low line angle and not having the mechanical advantage of ddrt. You gotta think srt, maximise the potential of the tree
  9. Dan Curtis
    Generally; Hand ascender, big anchor ring (assorted uses), fig 8 (just incase), 1x crab (ddrt descents) 2x revolvers, one with 30 cm sling. If I need another clipped redirect I'll take off my chest loop (120cm sling). That's about it.
  10. Dan Curtis
    I'd agree with that. Much better for inexperienced or panicked rescuers
  11. Dan Curtis
    Nice one Matt. The disco in the fourth pic was featured in lro a few years back. Certainly a labour of love to make something like that!
  12. Dan Curtis
    1960's Stihl 07s. I've only had it a few months but never done anything other than fresh fuel. Starts and runs every time, and by God do you know it's running! I think I put pics of it on another thread recently
  13. Dan Curtis
    How do you store your rope? Flaking is best to reduce twist. If you coil it do it in 8's, don't try to wrap it in ovals. Do you use a figure 8 or Munter hitch? Both of them introduce twists to rope. Certain friction hitches have a habit of twisting rope too To remove a twist that's there, I've found if you clip one end to something solid, then walk the full length out and pull and hold the rope stretched for 10 seconds or so, release gently, don't let it recoil, repeat 5 or so times it'll reduce the twist
  14. Dan Curtis
    Yes, that would be virtually the same principle as a fate revolver:thumbup:
  15. Dan Curtis
    How does that lift take place Ewan? Are you talking a ddrt rescue system so as to have a MA? Yerp, grigri's aren't the best. But everything should be backed up with stoppers in the ideal situation, good habit to be in imo.
  16. Dan Curtis
    Food for thought indeed, essentially the same as a system I posted but with an 8 instead of the rw/hitch. Only issue I can see is that top crab wandering off up the tree. Imo it would be better tied or mallioned in.
  17. Dan Curtis
    Looks like mine is better than yours:001_tt2: Haha, Gareth said one of yours was with Spud being fixed
  18. Dan Curtis
    And another. Essentially making a hitch hiker type friction device with two rings. Simple, cheap, functional.
  19. Dan Curtis
    Another emergency setup involving two lines. Hard tie your main rope in your normal fashion, I like using a choked ring. Tie two mid line knots or your choice with a good distance between them. In the event of an emergency, clip a lowering system into the bottom knot, and tie or mallion into the top knot. Sever the main line mid way between the two knots. Obviously there are downsides to this method, using cutting equipment in close proximity to the system is never favourable. However, this is simple and uses no more than what should be in the most basic of climbing kits. The rw is non essential, a figure 8 or Munter could be used in it's place.
  20. Dan Curtis
    Fair enough. I think you've raised a very good point there. Two man team belay rescues could be something to think about.
  21. Dan Curtis
    Nice one, cheers:thumbup:
  22. Dan Curtis
    Both those setups are lacking a safety margin. If for any reason the rescuer has to drop the line mid rescue (bees/wild dogs/falling bits of tree), you're coming down fast! Paul, your 8 looks fairly old. Is it rated and stamped as such?
  23. Dan Curtis
    How and where do you join the lines? Presumably it would be above the grigri?
  24. Dan Curtis
    150 without a doubt. Having used several 201's extensively, I despise them.
  25. Dan Curtis
    I did, which was quickly sorted by draining the tank, pulling out the rubber in the oil feed, sticking a bit of wire in to clear it, then flushing the tank with a drop of petrol. I regularly do this to all my top handles, keeps them oiling nicely. They seem to gunk and dirt up a lot easier than any back handle saws, possibly because I remove the bars a lot more on other saws.

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