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tree_beard

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Everything posted by tree_beard

  1. the older makita tophandles are re-badged tanakas and are pretty bargain basement... the newer 30cc model is a much better made saw, and is halfway between a stihl 192t and 200t in terms of weight and performance. echo top-handles, meh.. a mixed bag, but all fairly anemic
  2. zenoah saws (sold as redmax in the US) are fairly good saws, solid and reliable. most of their own saws are based on old designs and tend to be a bit bulky, heavier and lower revving than their european counterparts. their climbing saws are fairly lighweight and robust, but lack a bit of power in the cut. oleo-mac/efco climbing saws are re-badged zenoahs. they were purchased by husqvarna a year or two ago, thus the husky/zenoah climber, and a couple of re-badged huskys in this years zenoah/redmax lineup (a red husky 570 is now the largest redmax saw)
  3. roger's right, powermac 6a was/is 7-1/4lbs (3.29kg) powerhead only... yep i spend my saturday nights looking up 30yr old saw stats:001_smile:
  4. i'm not worried mate, it was nice to be involved in such a fine charity event(kudos to you for all your work organising it) i assumed the postman had it for a new years bonus
  5. on the subject of raffle prizes.... who ended up drinking my bottle of champagne?
  6. come now tom, plenty of montereys and macrocarpas around here to warrant keeping a long bar handy....
  7. http://www.sevsafe.co.uk/acatalog/arblite_chainsaw_clothing.html#aXA_2fARBLITETRC_2eCAMO not that i'm trying to make your dreams come true or anything frank....
  8. rpm's not checked, and carbs not re-adjusted after the fuel change over? there is certainly no reason why aspen should harm an engine.... where as ethanol blends can do nasty things
  9. i dont really know anything specific, i just pick up random odds and sods of info. for an explanation of reed valve/piston ported two stroke engines - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke_engine
  10. the last 20 years of top-handle chainsaws is easy... its basically the 200t! since its introduction (as the 020t) in the early-mid 90's it has dominated. before that stihl had the fugly 009/010/011/015 series of nearly top-handle saws... before that there was the 020 (and later 020av) introduced in 1971 it was a true tophandle, similar in displacement and layout to to a 200t and not a million miles away in weight. old reed valve engines tho.... doughy the first lightweight top-handle saws used in arb tho... probably poulan made in the late 60's early 70's, model numbers excape me. places to get info; the chainsaw forum at http://www.arboristsite.com chainsaw collectors corner - http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf chainsaw collectors forum (magnus' site)- http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/ arbtalk member- Al Smith might be able to give you some pointers, he knows his stuff and has a sizeable collection
  11. depends on species and if you want to lay them in the traditional sense... i've seen a couple of 24" beech pushed over with an excavator (to block a dis-used trail) that had enough roots left attached to keep em alive and form a nice thick beech hedge after a few years...
  12. the MS280 is heavier and less nimble than the MS260, but is a good solid saw none the less, you could do worse. the story goes that the 280 was originally meant to replace the 260 in stihl's saw line-up, however sales spoke for themselves and the 260 continues to this day... take that how you will... if i had to choose i'd have a 260 over a 280, but i'm of the thinking that other manufacturers have better saws in the 50cc range than stihl
  13. oooh... so purdy
  14. 038AV = 61cc 038Super = 67cc 038Magnum = 72cc i personally wouldnt run more than an 18" bar on an AV, or 20" on a super/mag. but if you dont care much for cutting speed, stick a few more inches on em, they'll pull it
  15. i'll be needing my tank for when i get a new top-end and re-build mine... but i can send you the illustrated parts list and workshop repair manual in .pdf if its any help (which it will be if you dont have them already), shoot me a pm with your e-mail addy good luck
  16. i'll give you 50p a meter for it.... a stamped addressed envelope is on the way
  17. http://www.platform-rentals.co.uk/product-details/52715/Specialist_Rentals/Leo_30_Rough_Terrain_Track_Mounted_Boom maybe not as expensive as i first thought, they seem alot cheaper (for someone in the SW) than universal platforms last platform i had off them worked out at £2 a mile delivery
  18. panther platforms (formerly amp access in this neck of the woods) are the major platform hire people in the south west. they have a toupen leo30 (30m tracked) expensive tho, was quoted £360a day for a 17m tracked platform
  19. if you really want one.... then buy cornish... http://www.willansharnessmfgltd.co.uk/products.aspx?productid=26&desc=0
  20. the rhodies and laurel would sneak about in the shadows, biding their time and gathering in numbers.... until suddenly you'd realise they had allready assumed power and enslaved everyone
  21. thouroughly de-grease, roughen edges and then jbweld... fill large holes with a bit of wire/mesh. works for most case/tank repairs
  22. it depends on countless variables, and you wont really know without cutting it up and having a look... you can find solid, punky, wet, and dry wood all in the same fallen tree...
  23. the long 'spring'(rather than the clip style) clutch springs will stretch over time and cause chain creep. a dry or gunked up roller cage bearing can also be a bit creepy...
  24. i realise they still carry parts, but thought they were more a special order item and a hassle to get hold of from your average dealer... to be honest, i had 090 lust a while ago, but talked myself out of it... and all this talk has got me wanting again... if i could really justify it, and if i had AUS$3,999.00 and change for shipping, i might contact these people...http://www.huntermac.com.au/chsw_prof.html (bottom of the page)
  25. dont get me wrong, i would love a 090....just not for milling if i were doing alot of big milling, i would prefer a modern saw with better anti-vibe, air filtration, fuel economy, chain speed, and weight. also with milling being very hard on the saw, i would prefer to use a saw that isnt technically obselete, so spare parts can be had anywhere, cheaper, and with far less hassle. i reckon a 090g would be a better choice for the mill anyhoo, rarer and heavier, and harder to get bits for, so an even more exclusive club to be in as well.

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