tree_beard
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Everything posted by tree_beard
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next time it cuts out, check the spark.... i would be suspicious of a bad coil
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didnt say i would touch it for more than the time taken to slap it on ebay and pass it on to the next poor mug....
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a perfect running 08s might be worth £50... but not one that needs work... they have been in production since 1968... and werent really considered a pro saw even then... regardless, parts are still available from stihl... and cheap aftermarket pistons/cylinders are available... try ebay the ts350 is based on the 08 and i think the p+c are the same i could probably get an illustrated parts list and workshop manual if you really want to fix it up, but i wouldnt touch one unless it was free
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nice work... plenty of big montys in my neck of the woods... i like the way they dont get old gracefully, but prefer to lose tree sized limbs from their tops, keeps me busy... i look after a wooded estate with 30 or so big montereys around the perimeter... 4-7ft diameter and in a steep valley, we lose one every few years to wind making an un-godly mess of the woodland beneath them...fun, fun, fun
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ive always been a miserable sod when it comes to 'practical' jokes... my initial reaction tends to be punching the joker in the face... and then no-one laughs. is it a wonder i mostly work on my own
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condolences my friend:sad: hope you get a good price for it you will forever in our hearts be the88man, even if you are now just 'the man'
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its only a small displacement saw... so the shorter the bar you can get away with the better. 14" should be fine, you could get away with 16" but it wont be fast and you will have to keep a light touch with a sharp chain or it will bog down alot in the cut.. i would stay with 12" unless you really need some extra reach
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check its not just tuned mega rich.. if not check the carb inlet needle lever is set to the correct height... if there was a problem before you replaced the carb, then it is most likely a worn piston skirt on the intake side.... so new piston is in order
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of course you knew... but you had to set me up so it sounded like i was answering a question and not just preaching saw know-how like a deranged tramp on a street corner
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sprockets=gearing 8pin sprocket=more chain speed/less torque 7pin sprocket=more torque/less chainspeed 7 pin is standard on most saws across the board... you might find a 6pin on some small saws (jap tophandles etc) 8 pin is only really an option on big saws running short bars... otherwise youre shooting yourself in the foot. 9/10 pin sprockets are available,but are rare and mostly used by racers
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088 is not built for small bars, its a torque monster designed to pull 42-84" bars.... chainspeed is low, a 066 will outcut it with a <30" bar... a ported 066 will even out cut a stock 088 with a 42" bar..... (in softwood land) if you were chainsaw milling hardwoods, then you would find huge torque on a shorter bar useful. but really to get any gains from using an 088 with a short bar, it needs piston porting and lightening, exhaust porting and a 9 or 10 pin sprocket.... but then you have a race saw, not a work saw
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http://www.proclimber.co.uk/catalogue/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87&products_id=261&zenid=eb9256854e6c6c62067f35e81c55909b -i guess this is the same bit of kit... at £694 +vat +acessories +rope, i think i'd rather buy a superwinch for the pickup and a tirfor or two...
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kevlar is not used in most chainsaw protective clothing... kevlar is just one strong light para-aramid synthetic fibre... different synthetic fibres are used by different companies. stihl protective clothing for example, contains dyneema (an ultra high molecular weight polyethylene fibre) edit:just so you know, i'm not a chemist or a ppe nut, but i was pretty sure kevlar wasnt in most chainsaw ppe, so i looked it up
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husky have a new pair of class 2 (24 m/s) type A trousers out.... but cant say ive ever heard of class 3 trousers. only class 3 stuff ive seen has been wellies
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not through a stihl dealer... you can in ireland/the rest of europe, and they turn up on e-bay regularly (overpriced). if i wanted to get one for a reasonable price though... i'd make friends with someone stateside (note, they are dirt cheap in the u.s. but not ce marked if that matters to you)
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a doubt anyone here has one... its a re-badged zenoah saw (husky baught zenoah recently).... so you might as well track down one badged as such, and not pay the premium for having it orange. i would avoid.... get hold of a stihl 192t... or just stick to 200t and a decent silky
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if you remove a spark arrestor screen from your muffler, be sure to check your rpm/ re-tune as the saw will run leaner than it did with the screen in place...
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the 338xpt cali is available in.... california. all the power has been strangled out of it in the exhaust and cylinder porting... so the displacement had to be upped for it to match a regular 338. ...dog and yeah husky still make loads of the classic saws for the non-european/us/australian markets.... buy a brand new 262xp in russia... or a 254xp... however often they are slightly de-tuned models with a slightly lower power output.. stihl still make classics too, buy a new 051, 070 or 076 in south america, or a shiney new 08 (the saw with the longest production run of all 1963-present) stihl also make a couple of pallets a year of 090AV's for the rainforest market, although they dont advertise the fact
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an important point, when handling steel cable attached to powered pulling equipment (be it winch or vehicle, anthing that can move unexpectedly) you should wear the thinnest gloves you can get away with... its much better to have a glove torn in half than a hand
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i stand corrected on the 880 caps... i just think the new caps are un-necissary, ive never had a problem with screwing... only flippidy flopping:001_tongue:
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loving the new 346xpg... noticably more grunt than most 50cc saws, and handles real nice... reminds me of the 254. but yeah, the husky site doesnt list it, and most dealers arent up to speed on the changes to the saw... it should really have been called the 352xp... and dont get me started on the 575/576 debacle... but thats just marketing bs... the saws still a winner
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you could do just that, the 361 is a mighty fine machine (the best husky that stihl ever made)... but i just dont get flippy caps... if it aint broke, dont go fixing it i'll concede the 353 is a wicked backup saw tho
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the 650/660/880 will never be up-dated to the (imo stupid) flippy caps... to change to the new-fangled caps would involve casting new crancase moulds which is not cost efective for the bigger saws that are sold in lower numbers. they will all be phased out for the 2010 EPA regs change anyways..... you'll have to wait for the 661 for flippy fuel/oil caps
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depends on the saw.... oil tank on most pro saws is part of the crankcase so made of magnesium
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i personally swear by JBweld for saw repair.... but as with any of these liquid metal/epoxy type magic glues, its important to de-grease the area of the saw you are fixing thoroughly first... to get a good bond. clean it good with de-greaser a couple of times, and because magnesium is so porous it might be an idea to heat the area with a hairdryer first to sweat the oil out of the surface metal... my 2pence worth....
