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monkeybusiness

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Everything posted by monkeybusiness

  1. It’s not 10 acres of grass - quite a few obstacles and relative narrowness. They currently cut and collect almost all of it with a couple of old ride-ons so this whatever they end up with will speed things up massively.
  2. Yeah, he’ll be buying new, doesn’t seem to do second hand! It would be a biggish loader (635 upwards sort of size) with a mulching deck. There’s 10 acres of garden to go at… I’ve another customer with a similar mowing area who swears by their Stiga Park pro 540 ix with electric deck, and it would be something along those lines that this chap will probably end up buying. However, man-maths dictates that spending extra to end up with a mower that can also operate as a loader makes sense. It’s harder to justify an expensive mower and then a really expensive loader (which would only be for occasional use). So that’s why the interest in how good the loader mowers are - they would need to leave a nice finish on well maintained lawns (not bollocking down overstood fields).
  3. It’s potentially for a customer who needs to upgrade his existing mowers and is also considering a loader. It wouldn’t rack up massive hours compared to a machine used to earn money, and could save him buying two machines if they aren’t just overpriced crap! I can’t see him buying both though.
  4. Has anyone got any first-hand experience of mulching mower decks on these little artic-steer loaders? Are they any good when compared to something like a Stiga park pro? Can they get enough power into the deck to do a decent job is essentially what I’m asking I suppose!!!
  5. What sort of reach (radius) would the Liebherr have 2 tonne capacity then out of interest?
  6. What sort of radius gives you 2 tonnes plus Eddie? What can the JCB cut and hold 15-20m up? How much reach and what sort of capacity does the Merlo offer @Gray git?
  7. I wouldn’t remove those without some prior communication between the arboriculturalist who produced the BS5837 report and the planners personally, if the building isn’t already completed and signed off. I reckon it could open a whole can of worms with unrealistic/unaffordable replanting stipulations as the current unfinished development was conditional on the screening provided by those trees. Clearly they need to come out - I think doing it without involving the planners and getting their agreement would be a mistake though.
  8. As per title - does anyone know a good hedge layer in Essex? I’ve got a customer in Danbury who has a few hundred metres to sort out. Cheers, Dan
  9. I’m thinking it’s a spam post tbh. Otherwise an investor who has bought (very cheaply) a run down house with known subsidence issues (that we’ve yet to see) with the aim of bulldozing their way through the planning dept, fix the house up and capitalise on their foresight (whilst further depleting the area of some of the only decent features in an otherwise bland overdeveloped shitatopia hutch-fest). But I might be a bit cynical…
  10. A shame to take those down - nice trees that look to add a great deal to the street-scene… I bet that was a cheap house - how bad is the subsidence (nothing obvious in the pics)? If you take those down and they have been responsible for subsidence then there is a very good chance that the ground will re-wet over time and possibly lead to heave. Not a great deal you can do about it other than install an engineered solution (better footings not affected by subsidence/heave) - if you are going down that road anyway then you could save yourself the expense of removing the trees in the first place.
  11. Try Digbits - the tracks will have a measurement stamped on them somewhere.
  12. Not every day though - sounds like this guy is desperate and this is a one-off job to me. There are often big-money days to be had up and down the country. It’s uncommon for them to be the norm though - you need to do a lot of running around to take advantage of them and there is no guarantee of another tomorrow…
  13. What would happen if you fixed them down in the room they are to live in freshly cut/green? Screwed through to the joists so they have to dry flat and straight? Once dry, lift them and plane/finish them before reinstalling? (It’s almost definitely an idiotic idea and obviously not a practical approach unless the room is not in use but thought it worth an ask!).
  14. A decent experienced climber would move around the majority of trees a lot less than a newby.
  15. BS5837 (implemented for the sole purpose of protecting trees) is directly responsible for this type of felling - developers/builders/supermarkets etc can’t take the risk of leaving unprotected trees on site pre-application as they can be weaponised against them and become significant constraints. There are flaws with the current system, and overall I’d bet that BS5837 leads to more tree removal than it protects…
  16. Also worth pointing out a lot of trailer handbrakes don’t work in reverse…
  17. I never use the support legs when loading - too much faff. However, it is worth pointing out that it is possible to lift the rear wheels of the tow vehicle off the ground, which can lead to everything rolling away if on a hill as they tend to be the only braked part of the combination…
  18. The guides were in with the fixings (I just didn’t look hard enough!) - once fitted it was easy to knock the posts through. I’m really impressed with the ‘feel’ of the quality of components and attention to detail of this kit - every last nut, bolt and washer is there, and the assembly instructions are extremely clear.
  19. I had one of these back in the day - ISTR the box mounted directly onto the outside of the flywheel rotor chamber behind the engine. The pickup sensor aimed at a toothed wheel mounted on the driven rotor shaft, behind the pulley.
  20. I’ll have a good look for them when I’m next in the shed. My dogs probably ate them though - they decided the box was a great place to sit…
  21. 2 piece - they’ll go together no problem with an extra pair of hands. I’m pissed and decided to walk away!
  22. I’ve seen my arse with it tonight - everything out of the box is as-per the instructions until now. A steel section has to pass through the mill head and will ultimately be what carries the entire mill, controlling the thickness of cut, so obviously needs to be a tight interference fit. The instructions are very clear on there being a disposable plastic guide that is to be removed following assembly. There is no guide in either upright, and the fit required is incredibly tight (which is good). I’m on my own, in my happy beer-shed-Saturday-night-do-shit place. There is not a hope I can get this steel through the nylon bushes without any cutting (which I’m definitely not going to do) - those guides are definitely a necessity and are missing. Bastardo!!! (I’ve twatted the shit out of it with a 3x2 - it will go in with someone else lining it all up but that’s not the point!).
  23. Off road I always went straight for low as high range first is pretty highly geared on them - occasionally it would be a bit of a bitch to get back into high 2wd (which I’d forgotten about but was sometimes a pain in honesty). I genuinely loved mine - it towed my Landy out a couple of times too….
  24. I’m just nailing a WM 130 MAX together right now (I’ve only had it since March…). Bang for buck they take some beating, and I have to say thus far I’m impressed with the quality. I looked at buying a couple of 2nd hand Woodland Mills before ordering this so I know how well they sell if I decide it’s not for me and want to move it on! This is only for a bit of hobby use - I know nothing about milling and felt that I could justify the cost/potential depreciation of this as a learning tool.

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