Rupe

Ha, ha. That brings back memories, and nightmares!! Where would we be without the inane teachings of the blinkered Mr. ekka. BTW does ekka get deleted out as a swear word? Can we get back to ribbing EA? We had a great day at work today. We have made up an itinery for a two day course in advanced basket weaving. Unfortunatly if we allow enough time for talking about the different properties of various baskets, there won't actually be any time left for any weaving. That is probably a good thing as we don't want to look silly in front of other basket heads! Courses would cost £2500 for groups of 300 or 10 depending on how we feel at the time. Every one must bring me a pie, and you won't need to bring any tools or materials as there won't be enough time for you to show us how its done.

THats the idea, but with two container you can keep the drain plug open and just keep pouring it through.

Thats not a lasso!! Its for rescuing virgins from castles. Not much call for it round these parts. Stay on topic please Peter!!

Here's a demo of some advance throwline technique.

Clean it with more diesel. Just keep pouring the same stuff through the tank, make sure you don't pour any sludge back in, up to you if you seive it out or something. You could use load of kerosene or other special stuff but I would just use the same 10 litres or so of diesel again and again till it comes cleaner and chuck the diesel after.

We're still laughing.

Your teaching advanced climbing!! Ha ha ha! Does it include throwline?? My guys are still crying with laughter from watchign you trying to get up a Poplar tree!!

Aren't they know as Renault Dis 'aster? And the other vans are the Renault tragic (traffic). Not that i know anything, I've got an LDV. (Late Due to Vehicle)

Cheap biscuits?? Send the HO off to get some dutchy originals or tell em you won't finish the job!!

"I agree with Ian there. Need experience before you start working as subbie." I think this is what is known as a moot point. You won't get any work if your not experienced so the problem won't arise.

Yes, sure, but at least you know what you want to do? I agree, if this chap needs to ask what sort of work he could do then he probably can't actually do much. I don't agree with Ian that this makes him a danger to himself due to lack of experience because he won't get any work in the first place so won't be a danger to anyone!! My reply would be. If you are good at massive crane takedowns then go and do that on a sefl employed basis for companies that need that kind of thing, and if your good at sweeping sawdust off the road then go and do that instead. I agree with Ed, it was a trick question!

Why 17.5% ??

My silky pole pruner broke (the mechanism) so went back to my old Wolf one. Its perfectly good, maybe can't manage the same thickness buit its ok. We also have brushes and handles which can be interchanged. Also the big mettle rake is man enough for stumpgrindings when most rakes are not.

Laburnum:Totally poisonous tree, acrid smoke, taints food and best never used. logs list properties.doc

Helicoil self tends nicely if looses enough, but that is where the difficulty is. There is a fine line between self tending and safely grabbing. Get it right and you have the best of both worlds, just like a vt and all other knots really.

Yes it is just that, and I didn't notice the difference to drews, same same but different.

OH, this one of Drews?? http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/attachments/climbers-talk/21690d1254948157-helicoil-friction-hitch-info-help-helical.jpg It is the same as mine but without the pulley shown.

I'm sure there many ways, mine is by no means "the" way. Can you give a link to the other pics or show them here?

Oh, ok then. That was the Uk I finals this year? Did you have a speaking part jo, or were you climbing/footlocking.

Deffo not me then, phew!! Sounds like a load of rubbish as usual.

A mate texted me to say I was on it? Where was it filmed??

I would recomend a distel as the next step from a prusik, its easier to tie, and safer as it has both legs on the karabiner. After that then maybe a helical or VT. The helical can be used a bit like a prussik as it can be shoved up the rope in the same way, but really it is meant as a self advancing hitch to be used with the same method as a vt, i.e. without the body thrust technique associated with the prussik. The distel is a very safe way to learn this new method before moving on to the more tempermantal knots like the helical and vt. IMO.

There are signs in some places that say "warning deep water". I wonder if there is a recognised depth of water that is neither deep or shallow and therefore requires no signage? I like the sign on a jar of pickled eggs that says "may contain eggs"!

Taken from internet........ Both wear and cleaning will reduce the performance of Gore-Tex clothes by wearing away the Durable Water Repellent (DWR) treatment on the surface of the fabric. The DWR prevents the face fabric from becoming wet and thus reducing breathability. However, the DWR is not responsible for the jacket being waterproof; this is a common misconception, as when the face fabric becomes soaked due to an absence of DWR, there is no breathability and the wearer's sweat will cause condensation to form inside the jacket. This has led people to think that their jacket is leaking even though this is not the case, but the DWR is still crucial to the best performance of any membrane-based waterproof. It can be reinvigorated by tumble drying the garment or ironing on a low setting; if this does not work, re-proofing the garment with a wash-in re-proofer can again add a water repellency to the face fabric.

No jacket can breath sweat moisture out through a wet outer layer when it raining. i.e. if you have water on the outer layer then it can't breath. The advantage of breathable materials is that they dry out after it stops raining and you can wear them continually. If you are wearing them while working and you sweat then you will get damp. Wicking layers under the waterproof are as important as the waterproof itself. Gore tex is more suited for cold winter conditions than heavey rain, especially if the weather is warm. Its is very breathable but relies on a temperature differential to work, so if you wear goretex in a humid climate and it rains then it could "breath" inwards getting you wetter, at the very least it just won't breath. A cheaper garment which breathes less well could keep you dryer in these conditions. Goretex is the most superior material but only for the right purpose. Generally I think its not suited for tree work, but if you get a cheapo gore tex ex army type thing then it will be very good on some days and doesn't matter if it get damaged. Northface goretex is best suited for walking to the pub or maybe on cold mountains. (less than 1% of north face gear ever sees a mountain!!) I use a northface hy-vent kacket and its ok for work, I wore my ancient stihl hyflex the other day and actually worked a whole day in the rain and stayed mostly dry!